What to do to strip varnish off Walnut stock?

[samari46]

Bought a couple of ex military 40x x stocks years back and the oil finish had soaked deep into the wood. All sandpaper did was clog up. Had one of those paint strippers with the blade and nylon handle. Went out in the back yard with the radio and started scraping off the old finish. Had to change directions due to the way the grain ran. Did have some nicks and dents but with 6 hours work just scraping most of them were gone. Then came the real fun, started with 220 silicon carbide wet or dry paper, then 320,400 and finished up with 600. And many coats of tru oil. I've also found that a extremely sharp knife such as one used by the electrical cable guys use down in the manholes will work just as well. Splicers knives. Blades are not thick and really thin where the edge should be. I've also a few cabinet scrapers in different shapes. You create a burr with a hardened steel rod and it will take thick or thin shavings off. Done a 40x centerfire stock and a rimfire 40x stock and after the finnish sanding no scrape marks show up when the time comes to start putting on the finish. Tru-oil or GB brothers lin speed. Frank

[samari46]

1950 means your model 70 is a pre 64 model and could be worth a few bucks, hope you realize that. Remington had a RKW bowling floor finish years back that as the devil to strip. Certa strip I believe was the preferred stripper for that type finish. Frank

[huntrick64]

Based on my previous mistakes, I think you could use Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber to totally strip and bleach a finished wood stock. My son has a Laminated stock Remington 870 youth model. The first time he sot it, he put about 200 rounds through it on the skeet range. We took it home and I shot Gun Scrubber into the action to blast out some of the power and wasn't even thinking about what it would do to the wood. It ran down the butt stock and immediately lifted the finish and bleached the stain out of the wood. I'm talking about 5 seconds. That was 10 years ago and I have yet to refinish it. He was upset then, but now says it has "character". Totally my fault. I kept the remaining portion of the can so I guess I should see if I could just strip the rest of the stock with it and re-stain/finish it for him.

[Multigunner]

Glad you posted this.
I have a can of gun scrubber I've never used. I'd have hated if I tried it and ruined a nice stock finish, especially of one of my older antiques.

[rondog]

In the past I used a product called Dawn Power Dissolver which worked great, but isn't made anymore. I've also used Purple Power with success too.

[leebuilder]

I have used easy off oven cleaner there is a citrusy version now too. I works great test a dime sized spot to see if it softens up the finish. I sometimes use broken glass to scrape a thicker finish off. Easy off is nice, it is thick and viscous and can be applied where needed and takes off oil finish and others also removes stains/mold spots. Then rince/wash with ammonia and warm water. Dents may or may not raise, you will get "hairs" in places just use steel wool to smooth it out use sand paper sparingly.
Done many like this, many were almost a century old never had an issue.
Stain as required or to you liking.
Be well

[rondog]

FWIW - I've read a lot of recommendations to NOT use steel wool, as tiny fibers of it can get stuck in wood pores and cause rusty spots in the wood, lumps in the new finish, etc.

Just a caution.....

[leebuilder]

I have read the same recommendations, I have read that you should not use easy off too. To each their own, just passing on what I use on stocks.
I find sandpaper won't remove the "hairs" but fine steel wool will. I always wipe the wood down with methal hydrate before putting on the first coat, it will get all the crud out of any pores. I also use steel wool and methal hydrate between coats for the same reason. Never had an issue.
Be aware and you will get head turning results.

[waksupi]

FWIW - I've read a lot of recommendations to NOT use steel wool, as tiny fibers of it can get stuck in wood pores and cause rusty spots in the wood, lumps in the new finish, etc.

Just a caution.....

In total, I have built around 452 rifles, and used steel wool on all of them. Some of them were exhibition pieces. Never had any problems with it. However, I never steel wool bare wood, only after I have a couple coats of finish on.

[Clark]

Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.

I started using it, and it started taking off the varnish, and then it dissolved my nitrile gloves
.
I am ordering some more chemical resistant gloves from Amazon.

[thegatman]

Restoring some American Legion 1903A3's. Rub on Citrus Stripper and scrape with old razor blade. Not too much sanding as I want to preserve the cartouches. Finish with tung oil and seal it.

[2152hq]

I scrape off old finishes also instead of using finish stripper/removers.
Very simple with a flat edge blade. Takes a bit of practice so as not to dig into the surface but is quick and leaves a very clean and smooth surface.
The curves both convex and concave are handled easily with a blade and by watching how the grain responds when scraping.
Just a small amt of touch up sanding is needed when done and I usually start with 380 grit and go right to 400.

I use a simple jack knife w/a 3" blade most times. A nice straight edge portion for the flats and the rounded clip point helps with some of the details. The work goes quickly with the stock simply held in my lap while I work. You can work right to the edges of a checkering pattern w/o touching the pattern itself. Scraping accross the grain won't show as it does with sanding as there is no grit involved.
Takes about 45min to do a butt stock & forend complete.

[retread]

Formby's is good but spendy. You can make it easily, 1 Part Lacquer thinner to 3 parts Alcohol.

[izzyjoe]

In total, I have built around 452 rifles, and used steel wool on all of them. Some of them were exhibition pieces. Never had any problems with it. However, I never steel wool bare wood, only after I have a couple coats of finish on.

Shazam! I don't think I've even seen that many in my lifetime, you are the man! I've use steel wool on many stocks, and a light pass with a propane torch with remove the hairs left behind. Just make make fast passes and not darken the wood.

[Clark]

Since i read this thread, on the lathe, I tried steel wool on a IPE, Maple, Ebony, Oak, and Cherry.

The Oak changes with steel wool. It accents the pores.

[725]

I use a tool referred to as a "furniture scrape". Nothing more than a straight piece of thin flat stock. The working edges are sharpened by a file 90 degrees to the edge of the metal. Of the two corners (edges), thus created one will be smooth and one will have a roll over edge of the displaced metal. It's that edge roll over that is the best scraper for removing shellac, etc. A good scraper in experienced hands gives a smoother finish than sandpaper. Faster, too. Matter of fact, I'll be doing one this afternoon.

[waksupi]

Since i read this thread, on the lathe, I tried steel wool on a IPE, Maple, Ebony, Oak, and Cherry.

The Oak changes with steel wool. It accents the pores.

Yes it does. Helpful in knowing if you need more coats for a good finish.

[Wayne Smith]

Oak and steel have an interesting relationship - steel blakens oak, especially white oak. I dissolve steel wool in vinegar and use it to blacken oak pieces I'm turning.

[targetfreak]

Whew. All those responses, and none of them have the last word, which is any chemical stripper (regardless of price) which has methylene chloride in it. The stuff is so powerful it will remove epoxy. Make sure the purchased stripper has some wax in it (to retard evaporation), and use protective gloves, a respirator, and do it all outdoors. DO NOT allow onto one's skin! And remove the wood from the metal before beginning.

[Clark]

Formby's is good but spendy. You can make it easily, 1 Part Lacquer thinner to 3 parts Alcohol.

The wife got me new gloves, the stripper was dissolving my nitrite medical exam gloves.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Resi...Z5V/ref=sr_1_1