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Thread: What to do to strip varnish off Walnut stock?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Clark's Avatar
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    What to do to strip varnish off Walnut stock?

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Name:	1950s Winchester M70 stock with varnish 5-30-2017.jpg 
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ID:	196618

    This is a 1950 Winchester M70 stock that has been varnished and cut for a recoil pad. Other than that, it looks good.

    I hate to start sanding if there is a chemical solution.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    paint stripper will remove it. Some guys even use oven cleaner to remove old varnish.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I like Citristrip, it is a citrus based stripper. Smells good, use gloves, protect your hands.

    Cleanup with warm water.

    I have a couple of stocks that I have refinished. Including my old Yugo SKS, and my Racine Wisconsin Sheridan Blue Streak. Citristrip, then steel wool and true oil.

    I did not sand any of the dings out of the SKS stock. I wanted to keep them, protect them. Including a name carved into the stock, a couple of burns and a deep gouge or 2.

    All tell a story to my eyes. If only she could talk.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Multigunner View Post
    Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.
    I'll second that. It doesn't raise the grain like some products will.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Clark's Avatar
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    OK, I ordered the Homer Formby' for $20 and the Citrastrip for $10.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I only use Citristrip on epoxy stock finishes, as I found Formby's works better on removing other stock finishes (less work, etc).

    I just follow the directions with the Formby's Furniture Restorer can/bottle, then let the wood dry overnite B 4 starting finishing with TruOil.

    I use pads of new OOOO steel wool for the main portion of a stock, and an old or Dollar Store toothbrush to work the Formby's into checkering.

    Formby's evaporates very rapidly in the open air, so I learned to pour a little bit into a non-plastic bowl & quickly re-cap the container, repeating as needed until the stock is done.

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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I've had good luck using Minwax Antique refinisher on old M1 Carbine stocks. It does not raise the grain.

    Richard

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    If it's original varnish from that era (esp. with Remingtons) it may actually be shellac and alcohol will take it right off

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Denatured alcohol (or everclear), rubbing alcohol may not work....

  11. #11
    In Remembrance

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    You might want to try brake cleaner. The spray kind. Just don't get anywhere you don't want stripped of finish such as on the car. Ask me how I know. LOL.
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  12. #12
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    I found at Sherwin Williams a stripper for boats and aircraft. It has removed every finish I have put it on, including Weatherby's.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    I found at Sherwin Williams a stripper for boats and aircraft. It has removed every finish I have put it on, including Weatherby's.
    They have several. Which one did you use?
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 06-06-2017 at 11:15 AM.

  14. #14
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    They have several. Which one did you use?

    Goldurn it. I KNEW someone was going to make me dig into the back room to get the name~!

    Savogran Super Strip.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  15. #15
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1950s Winchester M70 stock with varnish 5-30-2017.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	65.1 KB 
ID:	196618

    This is a 1950 Winchester M70 stock that has been varnished and cut for a recoil pad. Other than that, it looks good.

    I hate to start sanding if there is a chemical solution.
    Ya know, if you just don't care for that shiny surface, take some OOOO steel wool to it, and make it a satin finish.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    There is a Lot of Talk about shripping. . I know 2 stock makers in Pa . and both never strip stocks with any Chemical. Both Only scrape Them . using Razor Like Exacto Tools. . Both says scraping does a Better Job and leaves a small amount Of Finish In the grain and sand
    Even In the Checkering they Use small soft wire wheels Just enough to remove The finish
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by salpal48 View Post
    There is a Lot of Talk about shripping. . I know 2 stock makers in Pa . and both never strip stocks with any Chemical. Both Only scrape Them . using Razor Like Exacto Tools. . Both says scraping does a Better Job and leaves a small amount Of Finish In the grain and sand
    Even In the Checkering they Use small soft wire wheels Just enough to remove The finish
    They must be good to pull that off. Scrapping a flat surface isn't too hard, but nothing on a stock is flat. Most of us will make facets on the curved parts with a scrapper. Then have to sand them out.

    I've been using Aircraft paint remover on lots of stuff, but never on a stock; should work. But the water rinse will raise the grain. More work!

  18. #18
    Boolit Mold Hunter2506's Avatar
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    When I see that checkering, I see hard work.
    If you do get down to bare wood, what is your plan?
    Be mindful of your thoughts
    They are your future

  19. #19
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Acetone would also work.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    Ive used pieces of a broken glass beer bottle to scrape stocks in the past. I refinished a Savage 24B combination gun many years ago , I would have been around 15 or 16 years of age , broken glass to scrape the old finish, sanded lightly ,and oxblood boot polish for a stain , then hand rubbed boiled linseed for the final finish. Amazing what you can do when money is tight . My Son now has that gun and the finish is stii very good.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check