MidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationTitan ReloadingWideners
RepackboxSnyders JerkyReloading EverythingLee Precision
RotoMetals2 Load Data
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 51

Thread: Smelting with fire.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    Bookworm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Central Oklahoma, on a dirt road.
    Posts
    1,186
    Nice pics. I like seeing other ways of doing things.

    I like your idea, better than a Rocket Stove. I've tried a Rocket Stove, but any time saved with it was used up breaking branches down small enough to fit in the combustion chamber of the stove. I don't want to spend an hour gathering windfall, and cutting/breaking it down to 10".

    I also tried another way. When I burned a brush pile, I set a full pot of CWW next to the inferno. That worked, but getting the pot out of the bazillion degree ember pile proved problematic. I figured to use a stick to hook under the pot bail, pick it up (all 80 pounds of liquid, sloshing lead, plus the cast iron pot) and swing it out to cooler environs, where I would ladle the shimmering goodness into ingot moulds.
    The problem: Any stick long enough to get me away from the skin-searing heat made it impossible to levitate the pot, because of that pesky geometry/physics thing.

    I may try the type of stove you built. I have lots of dead oak and elm branches, free for the taking. I like the idea of 'free' heat. I also have a brake drum off a big truck, that should suffice to use in place of the wheel you used.

    It's just that firing up the propane burner is so convenient.....

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    I dont have any other method, and I cobbled this together for free, so it works for me To start with, I didnt cut the center of the rim, just to try it. It worked, but I believe it works some better this way, as more heat is directly on the bottom of my pot. Another thing, that I think helps a lot, is that the heat/hot gas, is all directed up around the sides of the pot through the holes in the edge of the rim.

    Being a carpenter, I always have an excess of small wood to use as fuel. If I was down to gathering sticks... i'd probably try to gather some pallets to break up for fuel

    I got the idea from a thread here, where a guy built a stove out of a 55 gallon drum, and sunk his pot into the top. He had a door on the side, built a fire inside and hit vent out of a short stack behind his pot. I'd really like to do that sometime.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Rcmaveric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    2,356
    good job. Add that to my dream house. Still living in an apartment and turkey fryer keeps me out of trouble and mobile.
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    I tried smelting with fire once, just over a fire. I had a pretty good camp fire going. So hot I couldnt really get close enough to do anything. I've been pondering on the idea of making some sort of rocket stove so I can utilize sticks and cast while camping. I know its better to take your pre made ammo, and forget loading, and casting in the field. I just want to play with it though.

  5. #25
    Banned



    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    7,068
    I've been using wood fire for a few years now, since I moved to my current place. I'm on 18 acres of woods, nearest neighbors are half a mile away. Basically, I have unlimited firewood.

    I need to make a better set up. I have two big steel bars suspended across cinder blocks that hold up a big Dutch oven with a lid. Works pretty well but I need something better than the cinder blocks.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    Here is the thread that I mentioned.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...elting-Furnace

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    390
    I have a 55 gallon barrel that I can use to melt lead with. I have it stood on end with a hole in the side near the bottom and a hole on the top. Basically a huge rocket stove. It doesn't take a lot of wood to melt lead, and it gets really really hot. On more than one occasion I've seen the side of the barrel start glowing orange.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    ThomR, do you build the fire on the bottom? or do you have a grate that the fire is built on with the air intake below?

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    390
    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    ThomR, do you build the fire on the bottom? or do you have a grate that the fire is built on with the air intake below?
    I just throw the wood in. There is no grate on the bottom of the barrel. The hole on the top is pretty big. I can fit up to 8" diameter logs in it.
    It gets hot enough that if one were so inclined you could melt down entire car batteries in a large cast iron pot. I don't recommend doing that, but it could be done.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    Im thinking... Might make me a smelting set up, combined with a wood stove for the shop. All i'd have to do is arrange a hood of sorts for use when smelting, and I got a mean exhaust fan I could use. Then smelt in the wintertime and kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I already use a barrel stove in the shop, but it'll need replacing one day.

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    390
    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Im thinking... Might make me a smelting set up, combined with a wood stove for the shop. All i'd have to do is arrange a hood of sorts for use when smelting, and I got a mean exhaust fan I could use. Then smelt in the wintertime and kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I already use a barrel stove in the shop, but it'll need replacing one day.
    I wonder if using a second barrel on top of the actual burn barrel would retain enough heat to melt lead. You might be able to just stick a shelf in the top barrel and put a cast iron pan in it. If it works, then you don't need to worry about ventilation as all the fumes will go out the stove pipe.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    That aint a bad idea. Probably work if I had a roaring fire, I've seen the pipe get red hot OUTSIDE the building. Drive me out though when its that hot.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Wilmington NC
    Posts
    1,450
    An "oven" above a "stove/fireplace" certainly has potential.

    However, to get good "smelting performance" you would need either a really large/vigerous buring fire, and/or minimal "heat losses" between the "stove" and the "oven" and minimal heat losses at the oven itself.

    Old woodburning cook stoves had an oven, but we are looking for tempertures well above what those stoves were designed for.

    As an engineer, the challenge of coming up with a combination shop heating stove and smelting oven sound fun. On the other hand, I have tried a bunch of stuff that I just could not get to "work out like it should".

    I encourage experimentation. Just try to not underestimate what it will take to get he job done.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy TaylorS's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    320
    Not to hijack the thread but how are fire bricks made? Special type of Crete? All the cinder blocks and red bricks are just molded. It might be feasible to make fire bricks at a good discount from store bought....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Logan, Ut.
    Posts
    494
    I seen a Beer Keg at the scrap yard the other day and was thinking just what you did. Hmmmmm ... I wonder if it's still there !?
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    All the kegs I ever seen were aluminum. Everyone says it's a no go for melting lead.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,693
    I've never smelted using wood. I've always liked the convenience of natural gas or propane. If I lived in the country and had an abundant wood supply I would try it.

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,784
    I've got a lot of small wood from work that's just right. I'm thinking now about making a smaller setup to use with the Lyman cast iron pot. It'll be interesting to see if I can regulate the temperature enough to keep the mould at a good temp.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    510
    Quote Originally Posted by nun2kute View Post
    I seen a Beer Keg at the scrap yard the other day and was thinking just what you did. Hmmmmm ... I wonder if it's still there !?
    Beer kegs are aluminum.
    Using it for a pot for smelting is a bad idea since AL melts at a relatively low temp, and loses its strength long before then.
    Using it for a burn barrel is a bad idea since AL burns. Navy used to make ship superstructures out of AL until one burnt down.

  20. #40
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    I know this is an old thread but-- that is too cool

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check