This has been going around back and forth a good many years. When I first started shooting, all I had was WW lead so that's what I shot. I also won some matches with that lead. Some people hammer patched lead into the bore. If you have that tight a combo, there is a good chance it will leave rifling marks but that alone doesn't prove anything. The patch does grip the bat and impart spin so if you have the right combo of patch and ball you will get accuracy. I agree, don't use it in HB bullets and revolver. If it's too hard you will end up bending your load lever or breaking something.
Aim small, miss small!
i keep the mouthwash in my mouth until my tongue goes numb!
stop arguing!
Regardless of which you shoot, pure lead isn't that hard to find at the moment. There is still much of it out there. Contact your local roofers and you can usually get them to point you to some roof vents and/or some rolled roofing that they find on old houses. A couple of roof vents will make a big ol' pile of them little 32 and 36 balls. Also call the local plumbers and ask them if they have any lead pipe out back of their shop/shed. Lots of them just stockpile it until they have enough to take the scrap yard. Be wary of the joints, because they will have tin in them, but the pipe should be pure.
And also... check the scrapyards if yours will sell to the public. Pure scrap lead from a scrapyard shouldn't cost more than .50-.80 a pound and,
again you won't need a lot of it with those calibers.
Happy shooting!!
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
Already have, including balls removed from big game... Patch weave only. Round balls do not fatten up to fill the bore like flat faced conical. In fact, even flat based conical need a wad to help seal pressure because they fail to completely seal the bore when the charge goes off.
To my sense of logic for the grooves to imprint in the ball it would cut the patches, which is a bad thing. But my sense of logic has failed me before...
[QUOTE=DakotaElkSlayer;4059080]Guys, remember I just bought a .36cal and son has a .32 so the only terminal performance I really care about is accuracy. I think I have a bit of pure lead that I would like to save if I buy a conical mold.
Jim
Hi Jim,
I cast .311 balls for the .32 rifle, and .340 - .350 for the .36 rifle. These 2 calibers due tend to vary in bore sizes, but I might have what you need. ; )
PM me if your in need for some to try.
Jeff
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I can vouch for the quality of Jeff's round balls. I bought many a bag before I started casting my own.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
btw, this was yesterday at 50 yards with 50% soft lead and 50% chilled lead shot I melted and mixed in. You can still get your finger nail into them, but its harder than with pure lead. Im going after a bull elk this year, so I want a ball thats a touch harder than the pure lead ball I used on a 175-200lb hog last year.
Pretty group. Pretty wood also!
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FrontierMuzzleloading, Darn good shootin!! I need to shoot some round ball, i have everything to do it, just need to get out and do it!
[QUOTE=FrontierMuzzleloading; In fact, even flat based conical need a wad to help seal pressure because they fail to completely seal the bore when the charge goes off.[/QUOTE]
I must have been truly blessed by the BP gods. I have never, not even once, used a wad behind a roundball or maxi-ball or Lee r.e.a.l. boolit and for the most part my old T/C's have been scary accurate. with 25 years younger vision I would put my shootin' up against any of ya at 100 yards usin' open sights.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |