I want to start powder coating for rifle

[megasupermagnum]

I have an Savage 110l (left hand) with an interesting history, that I do not know. Based on the serial number the gun is pre '68, and based on the bolt style, its pre '64. I'd guess the gun was new in 1963. Since then someone has really worked with it. It has a barrel by Doak Ray with no stamp but 6mm on it. The barrel is about 26.5" long, with a 1:10" twist. I took a chamber casting and found it to be a 6mm Remington, and also that the throat is a little worn. It had a muzzle brake, which I found unnecessary, and replaced with a thread protector. The worn throat turned out not to be a big deal as I found a load with 58gr Vmax bullets and 3031 powder that consistently puts them under .75" at 100 yards. The gun also has a laminated stock, and has been glass bedded. I have been shooting it a lot, and have probably already put 1000 rounds through it, and I bought it in April. I have considered having the barrel cut back some and re-chambered, but I think I'll just keep shooting it for now.

Luckily the V-max bullets it loves are about as cheap as they come. Still, they are about .20 cents a bullet. I have really been enjoying casting my own bullets for handguns, and soon shotgun slugs. Looking at data for cast bullet rifles, a lot of it is maxed out around 1800 fps. The load I have been shooting is about 3600 fps. I don't need that much speed at all, but I would at least like to get over 2000 fps, and closer to 2500 fps would be ideal. From what I can tell, its very tough with even a GC bullet and regular lube. From my research, it looks like I have two options. I can either paper patch bullets, which sound cool, but also a PITA for any kind of volume. My other option is powder coating, which most people seem to be using to reduce leading in handguns. I don't care that much about cleanliness. This rifle copper fouls pretty bad, which is as much a pain to clean as lead fouling. After 100 copper bullets, the rifle looses accuracy, and it takes multiple 30 minute soak sessions with copper solvent, and plenty of scrubbing to clean it. Bore lapping might help, but I don't mind cleaning guns. I am simply looking for sub 1.5 MOA accuracy at velocities 2000-2500 fps. I'm not looking for expansion, and I would be looking for a more blunt bullet at least 100 grains if I can find it. I am mostly just shooting for fun, but I would like to use this rifle for coyote as well.

Will a GC help, or is it not needed with powder coat?

Everyone talks about trying different kinds of powder (powder coat). Is there much difference, or are they mostly just talking about cosmetics?

I am thinking a harder alloy 15-20 bhn would be best, any input here would be great.

[RobS]

Using a hard alloy of 20 bhn will help and a GC will keep the boolit from skidding the rifling as best as possible from a cast boolit. I don't think you will make it to 2500 fps from a 1:10" twist barrel unless you have the boolit fits the throat perfectly for a straight launch however 2000 fps should be possible.

[megasupermagnum]

If I remember correctly, my groove diameter was right at .243", however, my throat was worn to .247" at its widest, and was quite long. I have never found a bullet long enough to reach the lands. Oddly, that puny 58 gr bullet shoots the best. That is my reasoning for wanting the biggest bullet I can get, with a flat nose. It gives me the best chance of seating to the lands.

Are you saying that powder coating will not allow me to shoot accurately at higher velocities than regular lube? As far as paper patching, people seem to get performance on par with any copper jacket. How hard is it to wrap say 100 bullets?

[RobS]

Powder Coat or Hi-Tek is not magical, you still have to keep the alloy right with a GC preferred for top end velocities/accuracy. Alternative coatings do help with leading issues however twist rate and velocity of any boolit means a person needs to adjust. Coating may give a small margin of error however it comes down to aligning the ducks in a row to achieve the best outcome. Traditional lube or coating you will be at the mercy of the demand placed on the boolit (alloy/gas check or not) which is a direct association to the velocity/pressure/twist rate etc.

As to paper patching I can't say as I have not venture this path...................yet.