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Thread: hollow point any mold with a flat tip

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy rusty marlin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masscaster View Post
    Make sure you shoot the ones with the screws still in them around folks who don't care as these are not legal.
    Anything with a steel core is considered an AP (Armor Piercing) projectile. I know this from experience.

    Also, for your moulds sake. Make sure the plug is smaller than the nose diameter of the boolit or it can damage the cavity.

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  2. #22
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    The head of the screw would need to fit tightly in the nose area of the mold.
    If there was any play then you will have boolits that group all over the place because the HP hole will be off center and it will cause the spin to turn into a tumble.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    The concentric spin leaving the barrel would turn into an helical spiral...but they would be all over the place.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Yes, however you accomplish a hollow point, concentricity is vital to accuracy. In moderate cases the effect is precisely calculable.

    Range in yards multiplied by offset of the bullet centre of mass in inches multiplied by 226, divided by the rifling twist in inches.

    For a ten-inch twist rifle at 600 yards, with the bullet mass .001in. off-centre, the impact will be 13.56in. off-centre, added to everything else that stops bullets going into one hole. In immoderate cases, tumbling is likely.

    It is best to have a hollow-point pin located in a hole, going all the way to the bottom of the mould. The best thing to produce this is an accurately turned bushing which is clamped in the lube groove ribs of the mould, to guide the drill. All my Lee moulds are old ones with the transverse steel locating pin. But that could be replaced by one permanently located through the hollow-point pin.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    The head of the screw would need to fit tightly in the nose area of the mold.
    If there was any play then you will have boolits that group all over the place because the HP hole will be off center and it will cause the spin to turn into a tumble.
    the screws are fitted to the mold they are not tight but run out is within a few thousands certainly as good as could be drilled

    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    The concentric spin leaving the barrel would turn into an helical spiral...but they would be all over the place.
    at hunting ranges any slight imperfections are not likely to matter as much as you might think

    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    Yes, however you accomplish a hollow point, concentricity is vital to accuracy. In moderate cases the effect is precisely calculable.

    Range in yards multiplied by offset of the bullet centre of mass in inches multiplied by 226, divided by the rifling twist in inches.

    For a ten-inch twist rifle at 600 yards, with the bullet mass .001in. off-centre, the impact will be 13.56in. off-centre, added to everything else that stops bullets going into one hole. In immoderate cases, tumbling is likely.

    It is best to have a hollow-point pin located in a hole, going all the way to the bottom of the mould. The best thing to produce this is an accurately turned bushing which is clamped in the lube groove ribs of the mould, to guide the drill. All my Lee moulds are old ones with the transverse steel locating pin. But that could be replaced by one permanently located through the hollow-point pin.
    concentricity is important to accuracy but these are pretty close and any shift from bullet to bullet in this application is within the margin of error and does not result in statistically relevant change within hunting ranges (no other reason to bother with a HP) if i were shooting a bpcr match i would not use these bullets, but i wouldn't use a lee mold either and would probably go with paper patched smooth sided bullet to eliminate the grease grooves on the bullet to improve long range ballistics, that said thats not whats going on here most shots on game occur within 100 yards

    while i agree bullets would be more concentric is a mold was "perfectly" modified to but any error in the modification in the mold would result in a ruined mold i have a lathe and have experimented with making my own molds and swedging dies but for most shooters unmodified factory molds are the most viable home bullet making option

  6. #26
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    in results news i finally made it to the range to test the HP boolilts vs unmodified FP bullets my rifle is zeroed at 100 yards and i didnt want to mess with the sights so groups are a little high as the testing was done at 50 yards as the benches are a little nicer at the 50 yard line and my high wall is set up with irons so i wanted to be able to shoot a decent group for the test (im probably not good enough to notice a difference between the accuracy of 2 bullets that both shoot well....)

    winchester 1885 highwall (modern) 45-90 34" tang mounted peep
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good to me...all this worrying over concentricity and balance and all that was pretty much for not!

    Proof in the pudding...
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  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Artful's Avatar
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    An alternative if you don't want to screw around is
    Forster Universal Hollow Pointer 1/8"
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/37...ow-pointer-1-8
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  9. #29
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    Thanks for the link!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check