All of my molds are Lee aluminum molds. So I don't do anything to them during the warm months here, since I cast outdoors. When the weather turns I clean them with brake cleaner. I always store them in their boxes with the handles attached. I only have one mold I haven't used yet, for my 7.62X54R boolits. Time to start as soon as the rain slacks off.
After a casting session, I let the moulds cool completely, then give them a good spray of RemOil (get it on sale at Wally World), then store them in a 20mm ammo box. Next use, good spray with brake cleaner and they are good to go.
Gun Control means hitting what you aim at!
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Leave them in a cardboard box with a bullet in them .
Eddie
Grumpy Old Man With A Gun....... Do Not Touch !!
As you can see they get stored with the rest of the casting stuff. I don't have any steel molds, mine are all aluminum, so no worries.
Mostly aluminum but I apply some ester oil with a Q-tip same as I do when I begin casting. Seems to work ok in an unheated garage. Michigan is fairly damp part of the year.
I think it helps to get them out and cast with them frequently. Gives me a chance to check the die and handles for rust or oxidation.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
The last step of my clean up process is to dunk the still hot iron mold (still on handles of course) into a peanut butter jar full of sae 30 non detergent oil. Nothing special about the oil choice, just bought it on accident one time and found a use for it. After the application of oil I just sit them on my casting bench in the garage.
Before use I give molds a generous spray of brake parts cleaner.
No rust so far, in Kentucky where it is always humid.
Is there any reason I should wait for the mold to cool before oiling?
Praise the Lord and pass the ammunition.
I just upgraded my mold storage container from a couple of 50 caliber ammo cans to an MGM dry box. This let me get all of my molds back into the same place. I still plan to leave them with a light coat of gun oil and wrapped in a shop rag.
Iron molds & detachable handles I coat with Vegetable oil, store in plastic bags. Aluminum molds wI think or without handles; I coat the ferrous parts with Ballistol & store all in gunsafe with dehumidifier.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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