I've always wanted one of these and found this 375H&H at a price I just couldn't pass up. I plan to load it to the 38-55/375 win velocity range with cast. Problem is, at this time I don't cast! I buy cast for pistol loading with good results. Does anyone have suggestions on where to buy boolits for this 375? I will slug the bore to see what size I need before ordering. I may also want to try some paper patched in it.
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Ok I've finally got together dies etc for this 375H&H and began doing some experimenting with reduced loads with the Barnes original 255 gr jacketed bullet. They shot every bit as accurate as the factory loads, about 3/4 the recoil, but a foot lower than factory! I received some cast bullets via big brown yesterday so I'll start working with them soon.
The gun is more accurate than I expected, about 2 inches at 100 yards with 4x scope. The recoil also isn't as bad as I was anticipating, but with full bore loads it will wake you up! I also discovered that when shooting from a bench I can put a 10 lb bag of shot between my shoulder and the gun and it becomes my 260 Rem!
Thats good accuracy. Really about as good as it gets at 4x. I like shooting low power scopes. That gun scope combo should make a great offhand plinker with cast boolits.
Mice to moose- you're covered with that rifle
and reloads. Does it have an octagonal barrel?
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That rifle is much more capable than two inches at 100yds. I have one in 45-70 and it easily shoots sub 1moa at that distance with the scope set on lower power with several different powders. Play around with it some more and I think you'll see some much better groups.
If only just begun to play around with it, but i sure wasn't expecting a foot difference in impact point at 100 yards!
NSB is correct, it should easily shoot MOA. That high power scope is out of place on such an elegant rifle; 1.5x would be more appropriate and will shoot just as well. I drilled mine for a Marbles front sight base and installed a Williams Fool Proof at the rear. This combination easily shoots MOA, and is much more satisfying to carry and shoot than with any telescopic sight.
Oregon Trail/Laser will size their boolits to whatever diameter you need. Theirs is a 240gr RNFP. Todd/3 leg
O, it's the octagonal barrel.
First load out 260 gr Hunters Supply bullet. It's a gas check design that I'm trying with no gas check. 45 gr IMR 4895 dacron with a touch of COW behind the bullet. Bullet seated with the last grease groove out of the case so the base of the bullet is just at the shoulder. I didn't put them on paper, but took them to the river down the road mainly to see if they would lead the barrel. Happily, no leading and seems accurat to boot! Hope to put it on paper soon, but there calling for rain tomorrow.
Last edited by Thundarstick; 07-01-2017 at 10:16 AM.
The rain had been delayed so I was able to shoot this mourning. The results are a little confusing for me. First two shots about 6 inches apart then the next two an inch and a half on the bullseye! The next two wild again. I decided to shoot the last 4 at another bull, unfortunately I didn't spot each one, but again, 2 on the bull an inch apart, with 2 wild to the right.
It is my plan to drop the horse power back a little as I think I may be pushing them a little too hard.
Thunderstick, here's a bit of hard learned advice that I guarantee is true. These guns (along with lever guns and some other guns without a one piece stock) are very sensitive to pressure and pressure changes on the stock while being shot. They are also very sensitive as to where the front of the gun is resting while being shot. Not having a one piece stock allows the gun to "bridge" while any pressure is applied. I can take any of my single shots and change the POI significantly simply by applying more, less, or different pressure on the rear stock while shooting. I can also do that by changing the point where the front is being rested. I can take a gun that will shoot sub 1moa and make it a five or six moa gun simply by applying minor changes in pressure while shooting. I get my best groups by having the gun up as high as possible which allows me to just slightly touch my cheek to the stock without bending my neck to shoot it. I put the front bag back as far as possible to the receiver and simply let the rear stock sit on bags that are placed in the same spot each time I shoot. I can "turn it on and turn it off" by doing this. My High Wall is unbelievably accurate but can easily become unbelievably inaccurate by doing what I have explained. My Win/Miroku 1886 does the same thing. Give it another try and see what happens next. Trust me on this one, I've spent a lot of time playing with it this way...on several guns.
Another technique that works extremely well and is better preparation for field shooting is to not use any sand bags at all. Find a way to rest your off hand (on a block of wood, on cross sticks, whatever). Grasp the fore end just firmly enough to steady the gun. Control the gun with your strong hand. Shooting MOA this way is not at all difficult once you've practiced, and is far more satisfying than shooting from sand bags.
Good info, but I was very particular on the bags. I have sit a bunch of benchrest 22lr sporters and know all about how hold can effect groups. Back to the loading bench!
Dropped back to 40 gr and can see i definitely am getting leading! I think I'll take a different tact with a different powder next.
I'm finally having some good results with this rifle! I started working with unique and blue dot finally settling on a 17 gr load. I'm getting around an inch groups at 65 yards. I'm really enjoying tinkering with it and have more gadgets and different bullets ordered.
Mine was a rechambered No.3 Ruger, originally .375 Winchester and was very accurate.
I regret never having shot FFg in it.
I'm sure leaning towards the hot 38-55 loadings, although the more I shoot it, the less it kicks width full house loads.
I received bullets from mobulletco 245 gr Ballard. 379, a Lee universal neck expander (case mouth beller) and neck expander plugs are in shipping from NOE. With a fired case I just need to flair the mouth a very small amount and the. 379 will drop rite in. I plan to experiment with these bullets at. 379 as it appears to have plenty of neck diameter and will probably order a set of push through sizer from NOE in the future to play with. I didn't mention before that I had a reduced RL7 with filter that shows promise as well, but if it won't out do the blue dot, no need messing with filler.
BTW, is it OK to not size the brass if the neck will hold the boolet firmly?
More to report. It looks like I broke the kings rule! I finally slugged the bore and it mics .377, so the. 376 boolits just ain't gonna hunt! The. 379s are just about going in the same hole at 60 yards! Now the problem I'm running into is the .379s are wanting to stick in the seating die!
..."Now the problem I'm running into is the .379s are wanting to stick in the seating die!"
I ran in that problem when I used Hornady dies with the sliding sleeve in the seating die. They are great for j-words where the diameter is a little smaller or the cast might be ok if it was smaller. However, as you found, the larger diameter boolits are needed for accuracy. I have read of some who open the sliding sleeve up enough with emery paper so that the larger boolit will slide through the sleeve. I solved that problem by using RCBS dies for my larger cast diameter boolits. That may not be the issue with your .379s sticking in the seating die, but it can and has happened before!
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