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Thread: Real pewter

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,035

    Real pewter

    Scored a few "pewter" items and they are of what I would call "newer" production.
    Looks and sounds like pewter but is only stamped "real pewter" on the bottom.
    Any way to test it?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    2,587
    Melts easily with a propane torch on an edge. Bends easily (for a metal) and creaks when bent. But if it says "real pewter" you should be fine.

    -HF
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,385
    I've seen Real Wilton Pewter (RWP) which is an aluminum alloy. I've also seen real pewter along with a maker's mark which is the real deal. The melt temp of most pewter is around 450degF.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check