Scored a few "pewter" items and they are of what I would call "newer" production.
Looks and sounds like pewter but is only stamped "real pewter" on the bottom.
Any way to test it?
Scored a few "pewter" items and they are of what I would call "newer" production.
Looks and sounds like pewter but is only stamped "real pewter" on the bottom.
Any way to test it?
Melts easily with a propane torch on an edge. Bends easily (for a metal) and creaks when bent. But if it says "real pewter" you should be fine.
-HF
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
I've seen Real Wilton Pewter (RWP) which is an aluminum alloy. I've also seen real pewter along with a maker's mark which is the real deal. The melt temp of most pewter is around 450degF.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |