Gonna find out how good Taurus' CS is...

[Texas by God]

I'm sorry I gave you a good recommendation now. I hope it comes back 100%!
Best, Thomas.

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[CHeatermk3]

Thomas,
Please don't be sorry about the good recommendation--I'm not sorry I got the Taurus PT1911--it does have all what we put on the series 70 gov't models to make them competitive back in the day==from the flat mainspring housing to the full-length guide rod, the ambidextrous safety(I'm seriously left-handed), the beavertail grip safety to the stippling on the frame and mainspring housing. The gun just flat shoots---as with anything mass produced, stuff happens.

Got the gun back today and it's in fine shape. The letter Taurus sent with the gun explaining what was done is kinda sparse it just says "Adjusted Slide".

The plunger tube has been re-staked and the annular scuffing I found at 2 o'clock about 3/4 the way to the muzzle is gone too--I doubt they'd have replaced the barrel but who knows? maybe they did and were just too lazy to put it in their note; they did not mention the main issue which was the loose plunger tube which is not even part of the slide--The only issue I have with it now is one I noticed right off when I first shot it--the beavertail grip safety is shaped with a "Lump" at it's bottom end not a smooth curve as you'd find in a Wilson--This causes it to disengage as the gun shifts in my hand during firing--I think I'll have it drilled and pinned.

[Texas by God]

If you're happy otherwise I'd pin it too. My Ballester doesn't have or need one and I'd sell my Colt before it if it came down to that.
Good shooting!

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[DougGuy]

I would not drill and pin the grip safety. JMB designed this fine piece of machinery to work safely, and the grip safety is an integral part of the mechanism that insures the gun doesn't accidentally discharge. If the grip safety is preventing the gun from firing under normal circumstances I would change it for a Wilson that doesn't have the lump and see if it fits your hand better and also functions properly. I personally do not like the lump and prefer old WWII era grip safeties on my 1911s.

Also, if you wanted to keep the stock grip safety it can be filed slightly so that it will release the trigger bow a little earlier in it's travel, this way if you are not depressing it fully into the frame, it will allow the gun to fire but it will still work when you aren't gripping the gun in a firing grip.

A 1911 with a non-functional grip safety can discharge if the gun is dropped muzzle up, because the trigger is free to move rearward where it will push the bottom of the sear rearward, causing the hammer to fall and discharge the round in the chamber. When the grip safety is fully functional, it guards against accidental discharge if the gun is dropped because it blocks the rearward travel of the trigger.

[CHeatermk3]

Doug I hear you about the grip safety--it's possible that the spring that it pushes against is a bit too strong (if that;s the right word); it is WAY harder to depress the GS on the Taurus than on any other 1911 that I have now or have had. I'd hafta say it's 4 or 5 times stronger than the one on my series 70 Colt. I'm not a gunsmith I just shoot 'em but I know good work when I see it and I know what I have in the Taurus just needs a bit of tuning the pinning idea just came out of a desire for a cheap, quick and permanent fix.. I agree it isn't the best option for a weapon that will not be fired exclusively in a match/practice setting.

[BigAl52]

customer service at Taurus.