Recent Article On Annealing

[alamogunr]

I recently read an article on various methods of annealing cartridge cases but can't remember where I found it. I would like to go back and read it again, paying more attention the the various methods. I can't even remember if it was on line or in a magazine. Can anyone suggest where I might look?

[Sghinds]

Newest edition of Handloader magazine?

[alamogunr]

I'm embarrassed! It was under a pile of "stuff" on my computer desk. I just didn't dig deep enough.

Thanks!

[BrassMagnet]

I'm embarrassed! It was under a pile of "stuff" on my computer desk. I just didn't dig deep enough.

Thanks!

I NEVER look THERE!

[BrassMagnet]

I even remembered the PURPLE!

[alamogunr]

The reason I was looking for the article was the description of using a candle to anneal cartridge necks. I tried this method and am not sure that I accomplished anything. Commercial brass that has been annealed, mostly prvi partizan or Norma has a discolored neck and shoulder. I can't hold the brass long enough to get it to a temperature that shows discoloration. Did I in fact anneal the neck?

I won't be annealing enough to set up any kind of production set-up but would like to extend the life of the small quantity of reformed brass, .270 to 7.65 Argentine, to get maximum life. Anybody have experience with this method?

[MUSTANG]

Which issue of Handloader Magazine?

[alamogunr]

#308 June 2017

[dragon813gt]

Not all brands will change color to give you that nice pretty band you see on LC brass. The only way to know if you annealed it properly is the use Tempilaq. This is the only way to know if you heated it up to the proper temp. Otherwise you're just guessing.

[BK7saum]

I would think the candle is not a hot enough flame to anneal in a short enough time to keep heat from migrating to the case head. I can hold a case by the case head and anneal with a torch. The neck is annealed before my fingers get burned. I drop the brass on a damp towel for a heat sink.

[richmanpoorman]

The article is correct but total overkill.

Two methods that always work:

1. Fire up your lead pot. Wearing light gloves, dip the neck in the molten lead. When it gets too hot to hold, drop in a bucket of water.

2. Set deprimed cases in a tray of water 1/3 way up the case body. Heat up the neck with a propane torch. When the neck gets red, tip the case over.

Been doing it for 50 years, always works.

[BK7saum]

For using the molten lead, you'll want to leave fired primers on to keep lead out of the neck

[JBinMN]

The article is correct but total overkill.

Two methods that always work:

1. Fire up your lead pot. Wearing light gloves, dip the neck in the molten lead. When it gets too hot to hold, drop in a bucket of water.

2. Set deprimed cases in a tray of water 1/3 way up the case body. Heat up the neck with a propane torch. When the neck gets red, tip the case over.

Been doing it for 50 years, always works.

I do # 1 method, but I can warn folks from experience... Do not do this with nickel plated cases. For them... Use a torch, holding in the flame as ya turn the case with a pliers holding the rim, just heating the open end( about 4-5 sec.), & then drop them in water.
Or you can do # 2 method.

(If ya don't believe me about the nickel cases try it yourself by dipping in lead & see what happens... It will create more work to fix what happens, if ya even want to try... Not worth it to me... )

And I agree... Yes, leave the primers in if ya dip like BK7saum mentioned... the air pocket helps keep the lead out of the inside of the case.


G'luck with whatever ya do!

[smoked turkey]

I use a propane torch and hold the rifle case with my bare hand. I concentrate the pencil end of the flame at the junction of the neck and the shoulder, always rotating the case in my hand for a quick count of about 8-10. Believe me you will know right a way when the heat travels up to the case head which you are holding in your bare hands! You will develop a system so that the heat will not travel that far and at the same time you will see the junction of the neck/shoulder turn a purplish blue. It is done at that point. I usually dunk the top half of the case in a bucket of cool water and just drop the finished case on a large soft towel. I dry the cases and give them a good shake and place them in the sunshine or lay them by the wood stove depending on the season to complete the drying process.

[sparky45]

tempilac with the appropriate degree of temp indication.

[rockrat]

I have done nickled cases that I have been shooting boolits with. Maybe the lube is helping keep the neck clean. I go to a count of 5 using pure lead.

[country gent]

As I tell my Kids also. It was in the last place you looked for it.

[JBinMN]

I have done nickled cases that I have been shooting boolits with. Maybe the lube is helping keep the neck clean. I go to a count of 5 using pure lead.

Well, You must be doing something different than my experience. I get lead drops coating that will not drop off like the brass sheds the lead in the water. I can't get the lead off the nickel without grinding as a wire wheel going around at some serious RPM won't hardly put a dent in the lead as well as it has attached(welded?) itself to the nickel coating...

It only took me one time & about 5 cases to realize it wasn't working & I went to annealing by using the torch for those nickel cases I had left to do.

I won't repeat it to find out any different now... but like I said... I am not gonna do it again & I recommend that others don't either.

Their/your choice, but "my" experience says not to do it.