Need Suggestions for a Drill Press

[Moleman-]

I've had this one for about 10 years now. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-...ine-33686.html In those 10 years I've had the set screw on the motor pulley loosen up causing a squeak that was easy enough to fix by just tightening the setscrew again. And the pin that connects the draw bar to the draw bar nut sheared off after about 5 years. Pushed out what was left of the sheared pin and drove in a piece of drill rod, done. It's done a few AR type lowers, and many other parts over the years. Added a power feed, flood coolant and a cheap $10 caliper to the down feed (Z axis). It does weigh around 700#. Here's a pic from two years ago of it milling the flats on an octagon barrel. Wait until there is a 20% off coupon and take it into the store and speak to the manager. Tell him you want to order the mill only if you can use the coupon. Worked for me.

The good, it's got plenty of power, the table is about the largest out there for a bench mill, it has lots of weight to dampen vibrations, R8 spindle.

The bad, it's a bench mill and not a knee Bridgeport type, has a round column, it's an import, HF isn't great on support.

I personally think it's unfair to compare it to a Bridgeport as they are two different classes of machines. The round column hasn't been an issue for me. You will lose your zero if you didn't plan ahead or because of tooling change (drill chuck for example) if you have to raise or lower the head (not the spindle). While it's not ideal and can be a deal breaker for production work to spend a minute to find the zero again it isn't for hobby use. For support, look at the other importers (some will have nicer paint and better hand wheels, switches ect) and find a model that is similar to yours. My enco 9x20 lathe that I got used with issues caused by the prior owner "improving it" has parts from HF, Enco, Grizzly and others in it. They bolt up and fit just fine. Read the manual that comes with it. It's clear reading some of the reviews some people never did and don't know how to adjust the split nuts to remove backlash.

[akajun]

Forget all of the above, if you want a drill press buy a drill press, used American if you can, walker turner, delta, Wilton, powermatic, buffalo. If you want a small mill, buy a small knee mill like a Millrite/Burke or m series Bridgeport.
They really don't take up that much room.

[ulav8r]

Okay! No milling with a drill press!

I expanded my craigs list search into Colorado, as far as Fort Collins, which is 100 miles from Laramie. So far, nothing usable is showing up.

As gunshot98 suggested, I took a look at the mills at Grizzly and came up with two that, by going on a diet of bread-and-water for a few months, I could afford:

This one is $795 before shipping and is designated as a mill/drill. I'm a bit hazy on the meaning of that designation, unless it means that it is intended to do double-duty. The specs say it includes a DRO:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-...ll-Drill/G0781

This one is $665 before shipping, although the designation as a Mini makes me think that something a bit larger would be preferable. The specs do not list a DRO:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini...-Machine/G8689

I also checked a mill at Harbor Freight, but it was outside the budget and did not include a DRO. A mini mill at Little Machine Shop was only a bit over budget, but it did not list a DRO, either.

Would one of the Grizzly mills be a reasonable purchase, or should I be looking elsewhere?

Many thanks,
Richard

The digital readout on that mill is for spindle speed only. Not for table movement or spindle travel. Did not specify spindle stroke or maximum spindle to table distance, both important considerations in a drill press or a mill to be used as a drill press. http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2017/main/571?p=568 The G0759 with a 3 axis DRO would be a nice substitute for a drill press and probably a decent small mill.

[RG1911]

The digital readout on that mill is for spindle speed only. Not for table movement or spindle travel. Did not specify spindle stroke or maximum spindle to table distance, both important considerations in a drill press or a mill to be used as a drill press. http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2017/main/571?p=568 The G0759 with a 3 axis DRO would be a nice substitute for a drill press and probably a decent small mill.

The G0759 does look like it would be a fine combination. It is, unfortunately, about $1000 outside the budget. This may be a case of buying a good drill press and saving up to add a mill.

Thank you,
Richard

[ulav8r]

Since the DRO is not an absolute requirement, you could save $600 by getting the mill without it. It can be added later after saving up the funds for it.

[RG1911]

Since the DRO is not an absolute requirement, you could save $600 by getting the mill without it. It can be added later after saving up the funds for it.

Thank you for pointing that out. I had not realized that was possible (being completely new to mills). I obviously need to look up some definitions of terms associated with mills.

Richard

[country gent]

On a new mill the DRO isn't needed nearly as much. When threads and gibs are new and tight taking play out isn't as big an issue. I always thought it was done wrong in most shops putting the DROs on the newest tightest machines instead of the older looser machines that would benefit the most from them. LOL.

[cwheel]

Having a drill press in almost any shop I consider a necessity, but I use it for a drill. Larger work gets moved to my mill. If I had to downsize from my Bridgeport, I'd take a hard look at the Grizzly G0175 and it's $1175. Small in size, gear drive with no belts, and a DRO for work locations. I'm thinking it would do most small gunsmith jobs in that size range and weighing in around 200 lbs. you wouldn't need a forklift to move it. Just like any machine tool, the cost isn't in just the machine, tooling costs come right behind it unless your a machinist that has most of it already. On Grizzly's web site, a working vise is going to run around $200, collet set ( R8 ) will run another $85, clamp kit for $50, and a basic end mill set for another $50. So, for a little over $1500 and shipping, you should be cutting metal. With respect to what Country Gent says above about DRO's above, I have to disagree slightly. After machining parts for a living for 50 years, my position on DRO's is that any machine that has one benefits from it. You turn out much more accurate parts faster on a machine fresh from the crate, or one that was made in the 1930's. DRO sees where a machine moves and wear to a screw or wear in a table dovetail is all taken in to where it puts you. In a commercial machine shop, cost of a DRO is paid very quickly is speed and labor costs. At home it pays for itself in better quality work. But that's just a opinion, everyone has a different one.
Chris

[DCM]

Lots of good advice here. I would not waste time or $ trying to mill on most drill presses, I have tried this with miserable results. I could not keep anything tight enough to make anything run remotely true.
I currently own 2 drill presses and use the smaller bench top one only for de-burring rifle brass.

[RG1911]

I truly appreciate the thoughtful suggestions everyone has made. I am beginning to think that Chris (cwheel) has a good point that a drill press is used for drilling, and a mill for milling. For one thing, a drill press would offer more vertical working room.

Fortunately, I have some time to consider specific machines since the new house (with a large work room) won't be finished until the end of July.

Assuming I start with a drill press, I did some searching and found this Grizzly press that had good reviews:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-S...ll-Press/G7943

Does this seem like a reasonable press?

Thank you,
Richard

[cwheel]

I've had a different brand drill press, but almost exactly the same size for 30 years or so now. For 95% of your home stuff that size works out just fine. Only criticism I have of mine is that the lowest speed on my 15 speed press is 200 rpm. 200 rpm is fine up to about 5/8" in steel and touch and go as you get bigger. Think you will be happy with that Grizzly drill in the end. Pics included with this post. You will see I made a homemade redwood stand for mine, what you can't see in the pic is the large storage drawer in the base. I found that this size on the homemade redwood base to be more stable than the bigger drill with full column. Also a close up of the vise. The vise is a 4" Cardinal speed vise, paid for itself many times over. At the time is was only $80, bet it costs more now. You get a nice drill in place, then time to think about the mill perhaps.
Chris

[RG1911]

Nice setup, and I've never seen a vise like that; it looks very handy. You're right; the price has increased a wee bit from the $80 you paid. $325 is the least I found doing a quick search. I think it would be a (far) future addition.

I'll remember the stand, now that I'll have a sufficiently-spacious workroom. I might consider adding locking wheels in case I needed to move the press for some reason.

Questions:
Were you using the chuck key for a purpose or is that your way of keeping it handy?
And should one use a slower speed the thicker the metal? (Most of my work is wood or thinner metal.) The Grizzly goes down to 140 rpm.

Cheers,
Richard

[cwheel]

I just store the chuck key in the chuck jaws loosely so it doesn't get mixed in with the pile of chuck keys I have. Never store a chuck key in the hole, if you were to start the drill, it will throw the key, could hurt someone. Thickness of the metal being drilled doesn't determine the rpm you turn the drill at. Type of material being drilled ( soft like wood is fast, hard like SS is slow ) and the size of the drill bit. 140 rpm is slower than mine will turn, but even with the 200 minimum on mine, I can carfully do a 1" hole in steel stepping up to that size with smaller drills. When you are drilling a 3/4" hole in steel for example, you will be running on the slowest rpm = 140. When drilling in alum with a 1/8" drill = fastest rpm.
Chris

[No Blue]

I'd expand my search to Denver; not enough peeps out around where you live....there's a nation wide glut of machine tools in the populated areas. The Baby Boomers are selling off their tools and the young punks aren't really interested in buying it.

I was reading a thread on Yesterdays Tractors and the tool junkies said they were having to seriously readjust downward what prices they were offering on old iron. Because they couldn't sell it at the old prices.

Grizzly had to close two showrooms and warehouses in Missouri and Pennsylvania in the last couple of years that had been open for 20+ years. Just not enough business.

I look on CL or Ebay and get sick at what old iron is selling for.

My 12x39 Taiwanese lathe that I paid $2500 in '85 are selling for $1000-$1500. It's in like new condition, fully tooled. New lathes that size are $2500 from Grizzly, but gear drive, not belt, like mine.

Bports that were $4500 for the basic mill, no tooling, 20 years ago; today are less than $2000.

Used tools are out there, just not in Wy....LOL

[cwheel]

I agree with No Blue on the used tool thing. I've had several friends buy nice Cardinal Speed lock vises off ebay in the $50 price range, just got to be patent and hold out for one in good condition. Same could be true for the drill press as well. Lots of us old machinists passing on and it's sad to see our tools go for a penny on the dollar. With most manufacturing jobs now located overseas there isn't the same demand. I have micrometers that cost over $250, I see them selling for $25 in almost new condition on ebay. For a hobby machinist or gunsmith these are the best times I've seen to acquire tooling, fire sale prices.
Chris

[William Yanda]

DRILL PRESS FOSDICK 24" X 36" TABLE, 3 MT, 3 PHASE 12/21$2000 (ROCHESTER)

[Kawgomoo]

get a mill....they are all the same chinesium at the lower price. PM and Bolton have good deals. But you can snag a J head bridgeport clone for about 1000 bucks anywhere these days.

[No Blue]

get a mill....they are all the same chinesium at the lower price. PM and Bolton have good deals. But you can snag a J head bridgeport clone for about 1000 bucks anywhere these days.

Populous areas; maybe. Out in flyover country; no way.

[indian joe]

A drill press isn't made to do milling and a end mill that applies a side load to the spindle will almost always release the Jacobs taper on the chuck resulting in a big safety problem. Those tables are for locating holes and not recommended for milling. A cheap small mill from a company like Grizzly will give you much more satisfaction doing both, and doing it safely. The days of finding a good used Bridgeport mill for under $1500 have come to a end, any found now at that price now almost always need lots of work. If you need a drill, buy one, need a mill and a drill, spend a little more and get one of those mill/drill combo units, even if it's a cheap one, and you will be much better off and safer.
Chris

Do this!

[ichthyo]

I tried using my cheap HF drill press for a mill. Bad idea.