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Thread: Skipping Preheating Mold?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy iplaywithnoshoes's Avatar
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    Skipping Preheating Mold?

    Is it possible without detriment to a steel or iron mold to just start pouring bullets? I know they will come out wrinkled at first but could I do this for a few bullets on my Lyman without warping the mold? I don't know the exact composition of the blocks so i'm not aware of the thermal stresses involved during heating. I tried this method with my Lee molds and the bullets have the same diameter range and roundness as when I preheated the molds, and no obvious problems that I could observe.

    shoe
    le ebin physics man

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    It will take longer to get keepers, but it's not a problem. If you don't want to fool with setting up a hotplate try dipping the lower end of the mold into the melt. Once the mold heats up it the lead will drop off. Try to keep the lead out of the screw heads.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just park the mold on top of my lead pot and turn the pot on. When the lead is up to casting temp then the mold is not too far behind.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    That's exactly what I do.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    I always put alum. foil over my lee 4-20 melter, to help warm it up faster, I set my mold on it, although I doubt it would work with an iron mold, would probably tear. but it might. I also cover it in aluminum foil if I have to walk away, to reduce oxidization and keep stuff (bugs, dust, etc.) out of the pot. same for when the pot is not in use but by setting my mold on the foil it always ready by the time everything is melted. it is also better than dipping it in the lead, I can never wait long enough for the mold to get so hot that the lead runs of without sticking to it, and have found that it doesn't need to be that hot anyways. good luck!
    An armed man in a citizen.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Bub juan916's Avatar
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    I do the same as Oklahoma rebel, wrap in aluminum foil

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Hot plates at the dollar store are 12 bucks.Sure saves a lot of time casting good boolits within a few casts.It will not hurt your mold without one just a nice thing to have.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master scattershot's Avatar
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    Well, what you are actually doing with the first few casts from a cold mold is preheating it, so no, I don't think it hurts anything.
    "Experience is a series of non-fatal mistakes"


    Disarming is a mistake free people only get to make once...

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    time is valuable....hot plates not so much.

    hot plate! .......cuz that's how i roll!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    You won't hurt your mold, it'll just take longer to cast keepers.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  11. #11
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    It is a lot harder to cut the spruce if the mold isn't pre-heated. You could break the handle on a Lee 6 cavity mold if it's not preheated.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Believe it or not a lot of us old timers made good bullets with out mould ovens, PIDs, and other new equipment. Now seriously, Yes you can cast a mould up to temperature with out damaging it. Pre heating on top of pot , dipping a corner into the lead, Or just pouring toil it comes up has been done. Instead of 2-4 pours with the oven for good bullets expect the first 20-25 to be throw backs when pouring up to temp.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    If i dont use a hot plate, I pour a couple casts, then leave the bullet and sprue and dip the bottom of the mould in the lead and hold a good 30 seconds. Makes the next either good, or frosty (also good), and continue on.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Smk SHoe's Avatar
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    I place my molds on top of the lead pot while it is warming up. Then, once PB is flowing, I fill the mold with the sprue plate open and let a decent size puddle sit on top. Two or three cycles and its ready for casting. That way I on't have to worry about cutting the sprue.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I use a hot plate to heat up my molds it also keep my coffee hot while I'm casting. just got a second hot plate at a yard sale , that one is used for my coffee pot now

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Believe it or not a lot of us old timers made good bullets with out mould ovens, PIDs, and other new equipment. Now seriously, Yes you can cast a mould up to temperature with out damaging it. Pre heating on top of pot , dipping a corner into the lead, Or just pouring toil it comes up has been done. Instead of 2-4 pours with the oven for good bullets expect the first 20-25 to be throw backs when pouring up to temp.
    That's the truth... for decades we just picked up a cold oiled iron mould and started casting until they started dropping good boolits....threw back all those bad ones and carried on ....didn't know any other way existed. Iron pot on a gas stove, that was it .
    To this day I do not own a thermometer , PID , hot plate or toaster oven.
    I do warm mould on top of Lee electric pot and/or dip corners into the melt.
    You don't need a lot of gadgets to cast , I do well with a ladle , Lee magnum melter , mould and pressure casting .
    Gary
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I just fill the molds let them stand for a while ,a few casts and there up to temp .

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    You could break the handle on a Lee 6 cavity mold if it's not preheated.
    And you'll have to heat the mold to cut the sprue puddle with the sprue plate with a cold mold
    * All my molds are put in the flame on a gas stove. Take them off at the pot temperature after I determine their temperature with an infrared thermometer. Normally after 2 or 3 casts - nice bullets
    Regards
    John

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Wife always said I like gadgets and she's right. For me they make things more fun as well as easier. So both pots and the hot plate are PID controlled. First bullets out are in the same weight range as the last ones are. That said none of those gizmos are necessary though I'd not be without them now. I added warming shelves to my Lee 10# pots and they help but will only get the moulds to about 250° while the pots get up to temperature. With the hot plate I can have the mould in the 325-340° range when the pots are ready. One gadget I tossed was the IR thermometer as you're still only guessing when you use them.
    Mike

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    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
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    AS country gent said back in the day I just put the mold on the pot when I fired it up and had it it when it was liquid.

    The upshot of experience, and this web site, is sharing knowledge that makes the hobby easier: so now we have PID's, hotplates and real mold makers who started in the business we provide because the commercial makes couldn't or wouldn't fill a need we provide and pay for!

    Yep you can start out with a cold mold and eventually get keepers, and a very strong arm, if that's what you want, for me getting something that was shootable and a lot of it, is what got me looking at better ideas in casting technique's and equipment.

    Bottom line is: what ever works for you, some save time, some save money, but the goal in any hobby is to have fun!

    When it starts being work the fun is gone, LOL!

    HM

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check