Yesterday was a rare day of casting...I set out to clean a worrisome mould & try to learn where the pot temperature allows frosted or shiny casts.
Instead of casting at a furious pace for quantity, I payed very close attention to the temp. dial and was trying to start casting around 650*F and work down to where I would find the 'magic temp setting' where the shiny cast emerge...Slowing my casting allowed me to think about more nuances of this pot's workings and my casting tempo.
First, I noticed that when I put sprues back in the pot, if I turn the pot up to 6 they would melt in faster but if I didn't change back to the 3-4 region soon enough the pot would overshoot quickly...what did I learn? A couple of things...when the pot is relatively full it would react more slowly to the heat element and when it was below say 1/2 full it reacted more quickly and if I didn't turn the dial from 6 back to 3 1/2 before it came near where I wanted...650*F, I'd end up overshooting.
When I used to cast like a 'house a fire' I'd turn the knob to max. and put the sprues in so I could get back to casting more quickly but I never sustained any constant temps. that would allow a more narrow casting window in the weights of the individual casts. At best I would find myself somewhere between 800*F and 725*F, constantly changing as I over adjusted the temp. knob. That also made the mold react in the same fashion...up then down..."I wonder why I'm not seeing any shiny casts doing this?" Dumb question...huh?
Second, I dropped a couple mould loads and noticed that the sprue cuts were ragged and or pulling material from the base of the cast.
Well, that sidetracked my quest for shiny cast for a while as I concentrated on timing before I cut the sprue. I'm at 650*F in the pot and I was having to wait from 7 - 10 seconds and then I'd see a smooth sprue cut close to the cast base. Yahoo, that only took about a dozen drops or so..."I'm thinking/mulling about how slow I'm casting and is it worth it or not, this could add an hour to a casting session for 600 boolits...hummm? Then I noticed the shiny cast started emerging...
Third, it was the slower pace that allowed my Lee .358 158g. RNF 6 gang mould to get down to it's operating range for shiny casts at a 650*F pot temp. I lowered the temp dial just barely above 3 and very soon the pot went to 575*F...I'm thinking this is a new low for me casting, I wonder if I'll get wrinkles? Nope, still shiny wrinkle free casts, dang I'm starting to be amazed now.
Fourth, I went all the way down to 550*F and I got shiny un-wrinkled boolits...but...and there's always a butt...but, the spigot started freezing and would allow only 1 pour between having to unfreeze it with my torch...dang! But...there's the butt again...I increased the knob setting to almost 3 1/2 and the pot came up to 560*F and a little drip started...hummmmm, I'll ignore this drip and see if that drip will leave the spigot open, it worked. That's why you see the drip art in the picture. The first time I ever let that happen more than a few drips.
Attachment 194740
Fifth, I noticed that I was pouring pretty wide sprues and that's ok but the more Pb wasted on too much sprue means the quicker I'll have to pause and put a load of cuts back in the pot. Hummm? I can change that...it's the timing when I push the mould in further to an empty cavity. I always used to watch it and as soon as I see the sprue hole backing up I'd move the mold. Not very consistent timing.
Now you fellas may think this is silly but as soon as the Pb started into an empty cavity I started saying to myself..."uh-huh'' and move the mold again. That worked out to be "uh-huh (move) uh-huh (move) uh-huh (move) and so on 6 times in a row. Look at how even the sprue excess is after doing this silly "uh-huh!'' I don't know what to make of this but, as they say so much around here..."it works for me!"
Attachment 194741
A couple of other things I'll mention is the heavy square nut behind the spigot handle...it adds weight to the valve and I can run it more wide open for heavy rifle casts. I still have to twist the valve screw and purge whatever is holding it open but...but it helps.
Also notice that I ground the little 'almost adequate' mould shelf so I can place different widths of moulds on it and have them centered on the spigot along with the right distance down so I can see the flow.
Well, that's it for the opening post...what little 'tricks' have you 'Drip-o-matic' operators learned that we can pass along to the forum?