Any Magma Bullet Master Gurus?

[bjordan]

Hello Gang.

I bought a used Bullet Master MK2 a few weeks ago. The seller has turned out to be a great guy, but he didn't use this machine much (he has a new MK8). I have an issue and he doesn't know how to solve it either.

The machine came a set of 8 230 grain RN .45 ACP molds. While learning the machine, I isolated that two molds next to each other were pouring off the back of the molds and not filling out the front cavities. I adjusted the clevis at the drive rod a couple of times and it it got pretty close to filling both cavities of the two "problem" molds, but not quite 100%. Today, I swapped all 8 molds out and put in a variety of molds, all within 75 gains of each other - largest (200 grain) to the smallest (125), and all in between. I have a Master Caster, hence several, single molds. Now I am getting no led in the front cavities of two molds and there are 2 molds between them. The two mold between the two that are not pouring correctly in the front cavities are perfect and filling out just fine.

I called Magma when I had the 8 .45 ACP molds installed and the guy said I needed to replace the entire wheel assembly. Now that the problem has migrated to a different set of molds with 2 molds between them pouring fine, I don't see how the wheel assembly is the problem.

The shear bolt is new.

Its almost like these two molds just need to be slid backward so the pour alignment is good to both cavities. The other 6 molds pour fine with good pour alignment. The caster has been upgraded to a digital timer/solenoid for the pour, PID controllers and 1000 watt heaters - it works great, except for the pout stream alignment. Its a ton of fun to run!!

Any ideas or thoughts? Tips or tricks?

Thanks for the help.

[Tazza]

I am not 100% sure how these index, but i thought there was like a gear setup, could there be wear on this part, making it sit slightly too far forward, making the lead hit the sprue plate out of alignment of the holes?

I don't understand how you would need an entire new wheel either, it should be something to do with the indexing.

[ReloaderFred]

I have a Bullet Master Mark 6 that occasionally skips a pour entirely, but I think my problem is the micro-switch that tells the machine the mold is in place and allows the pour.

If your Mark 2 is like my Mark 6, you don't have to put a mold in every station on the carrier. You could try leaving the molds out of the two problematic positions on the carrier and just run 6 molds. I know that doesn't solve the problem, and it slows down production, but it would be less of a headache until you figure out what's causing the alignment problem.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[runfiverun]

Freds idea is about what mine would be.

you could also take 2 pairs of the adaptor plates and drill the roll pin holes offset so the molds sat back further.
or get 2 pairs made if you need more.

[hunter74]

I had a similar problem with my mark5. I'm pretty sure that the problem is the adjustment of the micro switch/pouring sensor. If the carrier arms are slightly off or sitting a little different than the once working right, the sensor would hit them in a way that the pouring gets messed up. I had one position like that but I only had the problem with smaller boolits like 32s and 38s. The big 45s are forgiving that way, so I understand that you have a lot of misalignment of some sort. It could also work to change one set of carrier arms or springs. The problem could also lay there. If you eyball the wheel and carrier arms when running you should bee able to see if the arms are off and running different compared to the other stations. If you don't identify the above as the cause of the problem, my advice is to take your time, and hair-pulling work of adjusting the sensor left to right and in and out. If you get this adjusted right this should work if your problem carrier is not to far misaligned. When you have played with this a while you get an understanding of what works and what doesn't, but it's a tedious process and stock up on shear pins, because you would go through a lot of them!

If you want I can take some measurements from the sensor to the edge of the moulds so you'll have a reference point.

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[hunter74]

My mark5 does not work with less than 8 mouls. To get it working with less I have to take the carrier arms off. If you decide to go that route you must remove at least two. If you take one pair off the wheel at 12 o clock on the wheel also remove the pair at 6 o clock and so forth.

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[bjordan]

Thanks for the advice so far. I asked Magma a while back for a manual for my machine (or the earliest version they had), they were going to look, but never got back to me.

I can see that the micro switch leg is a little "cocked" or twisted slightly. Could this be an issue?

Also, there is a black knob with an increase/decrease arrow. What does this do, relative to the micro switch?

And finally, do I need a block off plate to delete a mold, or do I just remove the mold?


Thanks.

[hunter74]

If you are standing in front of the machine with the sprue cutter to your left you have a black knob. This moves the pouring switch left/right. On my machine a knob also sits under the removable cover where the counter is. This moves the pouring switch in/out. To adjust pouring you have to fiddle with bouth of these.

If the switch leg is bent this could be a cause of the problem. I've replaced this a couple of times and it's not too expensive.

I've never heard about a block off plate. Take the moulds out of the carriers either it pours on the empty carriers or it don't.

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[bjordan]

Hunter, by micro switch/pouring sensor", do you mean the switch on the motor? Or, is there another "pouring sensor" somewhere? I think you mean there is just the micro switch on the motor. I don't see any other sensors on my MK2. What I do have, as I mentioned is a black dial next to the micro switch on the motor and I am not sure what the adjustment affects relative to the pour stream. Any help there?

Thanks again!

[QUOTE=hunter74;4035964]I had a similar problem with my mark5. I'm pretty sure that the problem is the adjustment of the micro switch/pouring sensor.

[bjordan]

Thanks again. I don't have a knob for moving left or right. I do have the black knob under the removable motor cover.

Given my (admittedly poor) description, would I turn the black knob to increase or decrease to adjust the micro switch and how much should I twist it (increase or decrease).

Also, I have noticed that the problem gets worse the longer I am into the casting session.

[QUOTE=hunter74;4036057]If you are standing in front of the machine with the sprue cutter to your left you have a black knob. This moves the pouring switch left/right. On my machine a knob also sits under the removable cover where the counter is. This moves the pouring switch in/out. To adjust pouring you have to fiddle with bouth of these.

[hunter74]

This is how it is on my machine.

In the middle of the pic you see the black knob? That's the in/out adjustment.

The one on the left (you see the side of it) adjusts the sideways travel.

[hunter74]

The rod with the wheel on the end is the pouring sensor and is what you're adjusting with the two black knobs

This may be different on earlier or later models than my mark5.

[hunter74]

To pour at the right time the lever has to hit the angled surface on the carrier arms so the wheel is pushed in and the micro swich pours. If this is slightly off, it pours outside the cavities. The trick is to get this adjusted just right.

A tip is to look at YouTube videos with bullet Masters running.

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[bjordan]

Here are some pics of my machine.

This shows the adjustment knob under the removable panel for the motor. What does the knob increase or decrease?

This pic shows that I don't have a pour sensor.


I will try and play with the knob my the motor later today and see how it impacts the pouring function. Thanks for the help so far!

[hunter74]

Okay......... A complete different system than I'm used to. I'm sorry but I have no experience with this but my best guess would be that the knob on the motor adjusts somehow the interval of start and stop and the time between.

If you can't get help from Magma your best hope is this forum. I wouldn't be surprised if someone could help 👍

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[bjordan]

Okay......... A complete different system than I'm used to. I'm sorry but I have no experience with this but my best guess would be that the knob on the motor adjusts somehow the interval of start and stop and the time between.

If you can't get help from Magma your best hope is this forum. I wouldn't be surprised if someone could help 

Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk

Thanks for all the help Hunter. I am sure someone on here is still running a MK2 or knows how to tweak them just right.

[blackriver]

The knob controls the amount of time the mold is actually under the pour spout. This will consequently control the amount of lead being poured when the electric valve opens.

[bjordan]

The knob controls the amount of time the mold is actually under the pour spout. This will consequently control the amount of lead being poured when the electric valve opens.

Thanks Blackriver, so can this be why I am getting two molds (not next to each other) to have the pour stream misaligned? My MK2 has had a digital timer added to control the amount of lead poured. Since I have a digital timer, does this black knob actually do anything? The micro switch should be telling the digital timer when to activate the solenoid and for how long.

Thanks!!

[bjordan]

This afternoon, I looked closely at the cam that is attached to the drive motor. This is the cam that the micro switch engages:



I can't get the better picture to upload, but the cam is worn/pitted/rough, mis-shaped where the leg of the micro switch is engaged. Its almost like someone took a grinder to it. I have an email to Eric at Magma with both pics to see if he thinks this could be a cause of the problem and if the part is available.

[blackriver]

I do not think you have an issue with any switches or adjustments. The only parts that have any control of the carousel position is the linkage from the motor to the notched drive gear that is parallel to the carousel. There has to be a worn part or something out of tolerance in that area of the machine. This is the only reasoning that I can thank of that could cause the issues you are having. Should be a simple fix. I have run two Mk2's daily for years, they are very simple and easy to troubleshoot. I will PM you with my contact info. Give me a call, will be glad to help.