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Thread: explain please

  1. #21
    In Remembrance


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    Start checking at the `Great American mainstay` the local yard sales. I found 2 hotplates that were double burnered for $3.00 and $3.50. All burners worked with 3 temp settings for each. I also got an iron 10" flat skillet that I lay on a burner set to medium and pre-heat my molds that way.Robert

  2. #22
    Boolit Master




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    I got my hotplate from Wally World, single burner. At the scrap yard I got a square (10"x10") piece of 1/2" steel and lay that on the burner. Fire the hot plate up, give it time to heat the the steel plate and that makes sure the moulds are Pre-Heated. Just the way I do it, if have 3-4 moulds to heat up
    Last edited by 1_Ogre; 05-11-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardcast416taylor View Post
    Start checking at the `Great American mainstay` the local yard sales. I found 2 hotplates that were double burnered for $3.00 and $3.50. All burners worked with 3 temp settings for each. I also got an iron 10" flat skillet that I lay on a burner set to medium and pre-heat my molds that way.Robert

    Easy to add a triac controller for more variation in temp.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master




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    Best way I've found to pre-heat a mould is when you fire off your pot, set the mould(s) on the rim of the pot. By the time the lead's melted, the moulds will be pretty much up to temp. Only been doing it like that for decades, and it works
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1_Ogre View Post
    Best way I've found to pre-heat a mould is when you fire off your pot, set the mould(s) on the rim of the pot. By the time the lead's melted, the moulds will be pretty much up to temp. Only been doing it like that for decades, and it works
    yes you don't need wally or any of that, use what you have. I too have used this method for DECADES with fine results. Also I always keep an extra mold warm in case one I'm using developes an issue; I can still cast up the melt.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks guys , I've already found this thread useful.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
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    I'm new to casting but I am intrigued by the idea of using a double burner setup with one side pre-heating molds and the other maybe warming ingots.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1_Ogre View Post
    Best way I've found to pre-heat a mould is when you fire off your pot, set the mould(s) on the rim of the pot. By the time the lead's melted, the moulds will be pretty much up to temp. Only been doing it like that for decades, and it works
    I did that when I used a Lyman pot. The cast iron liner extended out of the pot about an inch and it worked really well. My RCBS pot has a thinner stainless liner and the lip is much smaller and does not get nearly as hot. I started using a hot plate and a piece of 1/8th steel plate.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    FWIW, I made a couple warming shelves for my Lee 10# pots. Hottest I ever got a mold was 250-260°. Shortly after acquiring a hot plate I set it up for a PID control. Now by the time my pots are up to temperature my mold is at about 320-330° which is what this particular mold and alloy like. First bullets poured are right on the money weight wise. The nice thing about a PID control for the hot plate is you warm the ingots without melting them.
    Mike

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  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master
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    most po-dunk towns have the internet
    E-bay
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by white eagle View Post
    most po-dunk towns have the internet
    E-bay
    That's where mine came from. 1000W with a solid top though I added a 1/4" aluminum plate over it. Didn't realize till that purchase that you could make an offer on an item and maybe save a bit. $12 shipped!
    Mike

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    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    The only one I found at the local thrift shop kept popping the breaker . Rather than fix it I went back to keeping the mold on top of the pot .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  13. #33
    Boolit Master 1bluehorse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2kute View Post
    seems like every time someone asks a question about preheating a boolit mold, someone come out with "I got mine at Wal Mart for 10 bucks".

    now explain to me how this little Po-dunk town with barely 100k in it can have not one, but TWO Wal Marts, and neither one of them has a ten dollar hot plate.

    A town of 100k people is now a "po-dunk" town ????? Thought I lived in a "po-dunk" town (almost 2k , but I think they counted some of the deer that live in town) .....guess we're just the "po" part....

  14. #34
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    The only one I found at the local thrift shop kept popping the breaker . Rather than fix it I went back to keeping the mold on top of the pot .

    Jack
    there's not much to a hot plate.. pop it open for a looksee.

    usually just a thermal fuse and a thermal, thermostat.

    might have a bit of insulation missing on the thermostat rotary control.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Electrical equipment had a 24 hour guarantee , they took it back without question .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check