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Thread: Chamber casting

  1. #1

    Chamber casting

    I searched the the posts and was interested by the recommendation of using a sulphur and graphite mixture to do chamber casting.

    Anyone know of sources for the stuff?
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    san josie calif
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    Messy, smelly, and very fragile -- get a bit of cerro-safe from brownell - you won't be sorry

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    sundog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Koweta Mission, Oklahoma
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    4,071
    Sulphur can be obtained at any chemical supply place. I got mine at a place that sells in quantity and the had a broken bag that could not be sold. The guy gave me a pint bag full.

    Graphite can be obtained at the hardware store, or grind up a pencil lead.

    Sulphur and graphite is all I use for chamber casts. Works great.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Western NC
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    1,392
    Drug stores sell powdered sulphur, it's labeled "Flowers of Sulphur", comes in boxes or plastic bottles. I use it straight for chamber casts. All graphite does is change the color of the cast.

    A sulphur cast is not nearly as strong as a Cerrosafe metal cast but it's plenty strong enough and much cheaper too. It sells for maybe $3 around here and gives you enough for 6-10 casts depending on chamber sizes.

    Powdered sulphur melts easily and is VERY easy to over heat. I use a 2 oz. stainless measureing cup (kitchen type, a thrift shop purchase) and a thick candle for heat.

    Put maybe three times the powder you may need for the cast in and hold the cup over the candle while stirring it with a popsickle stick. Don't let it get hot enough to turn dark brown. A brownish-yellow liquid shows the right temperture for a cast. If it gets too hot it will become a sticky mess rather than a thin liquid, toss the sticky stuff out and start again with fresh powder.

    (Have a bucket of water handy for any sulphur that catches fire, it's "brimstone" and burns quit hot!)

    Put a dummy round in the chamber and use a cleaning rod to push a snug wad of tissue paper against the bullet for a plug to close the bore.

    I make up a long, thin funnel of paper and pour a small amount of molten sulphur into the chamber. Then I drop a 6" length of bare copper power wire (#12 or #14 wire works well) down into the chamber while it's still liquid. When cooled, the wire adds a bit of strenth and makes a good handle too.

    Don't over fill the chamber or you will spill over and may lock your casting into the locking recess. If so, you will have to knock it out and start over! All part of the learning curve...

    Use the cleaning rod to push the hardened cast out. Your cast will include the throat and a bit of the rifling, very interesting info to have on hand. Clean out the chamber, bore and locking lug area before using the rifle again.
    Last edited by 1hole; 07-16-2008 at 05:09 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check