Titan ReloadingSnyders JerkyRotoMetals2Wideners
Inline FabricationReloading EverythingRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply
Load Data Lee Precision
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Cartridge Heater Wattage

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106

    Cartridge Heater Wattage

    I'm thinking about going to a PID control for my Star sizer. I'm currently using an aluminum plate and household iron but want something that involves less guesswork. I don't want to spend the price for a commercial heater and still have to add a PID. I have thick aluminum on hand and a milling machine to shape it.

    My question is, what wattage cartridge heater have others used to heat lubrisizers? I know a PID will let an oversized heater do the job but I would expect better results with one that doesn't cycle too quickly. My reloading room is heavily insulated so even with the heat off it seldom gets colder than the upper 40s and even that is rare. Point being, I'm not having to bring it up from sub-freezing temperatures.

    My my furnace is a Pro Melt so I haven't felt the need for a PID in it. This will be my first PID application and I'll probably use one of the self contained 10 amp fleabay units.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy fred2892's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Norfolk, England
    Posts
    397
    The standard Lyman heater is 50 watt and takes almost 20 minutes to get carnuba red up to temperature. I built a 12 mm thick heater plate for my LAM and used a 150 watt 8mm (5/16") cartridge heater with a voltage controller. Same lube takes only 5 minutes to get up to temperature.

    Sent from my Galaxy Tab 2 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106
    Thanks for the info, Fred!

    David
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,388
    I use Carnuba Red too. My aluminum plate is 5"x6"x1". I'm using a 30 watt cartridge heater that's .375"x 1.5". Thermocouple is located on the opposite side of the lubesizer. When the temp hits 2degC shy of set temp I use a hair dryer on the lubesizer till the temp hits 2degC above set temp. My space is air conditioned so the lube heater keeps pace to lube 500 boolits in 35-40 minutes. My set temp is 34degC. I wouldn't hesitate to use one 30-100 watts.

    I've got another PID that's shared by all my lead pots. It makes the Pro-melts better. You can feel how consistent the boolits are when your sizing them.
    Last edited by jsizemore; 04-29-2017 at 09:36 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    km101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    N. of the DFW Metromess
    Posts
    1,379
    My home-built heaters are 4" x 5" x .750 aluminum plate. I used a 100 watt 8 mm cartridge heater and a 50C button thermostat. This setup will bring my Lyman 450 up to 110 degrees in about 8-10 minutes. It will maintain 115-118 max temperature indefinitely. This setup works great with Carnauba Red and LS Commercial 160.

    be sure to use plenty of heat transfer paste between the lubesizer and the heater plate and between the thermocouple and the plate. Helps to maintain accurate readings and decrease heat-up time. Also, most of the lubesizer bases are NOT flat. It may need a little mill or file work so that it makes good contact with the plate.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by km101; 05-01-2017 at 08:14 PM.
    "with liberty and justice for all"...must be 18 or older, not available in all states, void where prohibited, some restrictions may apply. D. Stanhope


    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

    "To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them." George Mason Co-author of the Second Ammemdment

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub darrondb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NE KS
    Posts
    74
    I too used a 100W heater. Here is a write up for my build including links to the components.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...zer-base-plate

    D

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106
    This is all very helpful, gentlemen. Km101, I'll make sure there is good contact between the base and lubrisizer. Darron, your build and parts list will be utilized.

    Thanks to all contributors.

    David
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check