Inline FabricationLee PrecisionWidenersRotoMetals2
Titan ReloadingADvertise hereRepackbox

Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Alignment problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    9

    Alignment problem

    I just got a 147 grain NG mold from MP-Molds.
    It ..or I.. seem to have an alignment problem, making boolits uneven.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170428_004627.jpg 
Views:	47 
Size:	10.5 KB 
ID:	194197

    The back pin have become a bit submerged, and I wonder if that is the culprit - or there perhaps is multiple things I am unaware of, being new to casting. I have two lee molds that doesn't have problems.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170428_004031.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	36.9 KB 
ID:	194196

    I don't hit the mold, or abuse it. It has cast boolits like this from the start.

    Is it possible to punch the pin back out to align without damage to the mold?
    Is it thightning of sprue plate - or other things?

    Thanks in advance for your two cents on this.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Whitespider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    On the Cedar River in NE Iowa
    Posts
    661
    I have no experience with MP Molds, but I'll tell you how I adjust the pins on iron molds such as Lyman.

    1. Strip the mold halves down to bare blocks and clean the mold faces spotless.
    2. Hold the halves together, one in each hand, and "twist" them back and forth, feeling and looking for any movement. If you don't detect any movement there's likely no adjustment necessary... and I recommend no adjustment.
    3. If you detect movement you should also (normally) be able to detect which pin is the culprit (or which needs the most adjustment). Support the block face down in some way to prevent damage, a bench block is ideal but a leather covered piece of wood with a small hole drilled in it will work.
    4. Using a punch and small hammer lightly tap the offending pin towards the face... it don't take much, work slow and be careful. On most "new" molds the pins will move pretty easily, older molds may require a bit more aggression (especially iron molds that may have gotten rusty). Keep checking the fit; only move the pin just far enough to remove the movement and no further (keep in mind the other pin may need a little adjustment). If you go too far it may cause other issues such as excessive wear, difficulty opening/closing, or even incomplete closing.
    5. When you think you've got it, make sure the faces are spotlessly clean again, hold them together in front of a good light and check to make sure no light is passing between the blocks from any angle.

    Done.
    *

  3. #3
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,094
    it's hard to see from the picture.
    but I think your describing two halves of a mold not quite joining up to make a round boolit.

    you can check this by closing the mold and looking at the top of the mold.
    gently run a sharp edge [X-acto blade or pocket knife] in the cavity's against the seams from both directions.
    you will feel if the edges are not lining up.

    to fix it you do need to move the pins.
    if you tap the front one out it should pull the right side of the mold forward.
    and the rear one should move the right side rearward.

    if the pins are driven in from the left side of the mold then reverse the directions for the left side of the mold.

    be aware you might have to knock the other pin in a titch to keep things from binding and allow the mold to close all the way.

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    it's hard to see from the picture.
    but I think your describing two halves of a mold not quite joining up to make a round boolit.

    you can check this by closing the mold and looking at the top of the mold.
    gently run a sharp edge [X-acto blade or pocket knife] in the cavity's against the seams from both directions.
    you will feel if the edges are not lining up.

    to fix it you do need to move the pins.
    if you tap the front one out it should pull the right side of the mold forward.
    and the rear one should move the right side rearward.

    if the pins are driven in from the left side of the mold then reverse the directions for the left side of the mold.

    be aware you might have to knock the other pin in a titch to keep things from binding and allow the mold to close all the way.
    Thanks for input, good tool for checking. It was the pin -


    Quote Originally Posted by Whitespider View Post
    I have no experience with MP Molds, but I'll tell you how I adjust the pins on iron molds such as Lyman.

    1. Strip the mold halves down to bare blocks and clean the mold faces spotless.
    2. Hold the halves together, one in each hand, and "twist" them back and forth, feeling and looking for any movement. If you don't detect any movement there's likely no adjustment necessary... and I recommend no adjustment.
    3. If you detect movement you should also (normally) be able to detect which pin is the culprit (or which needs the most adjustment). Support the block face down in some way to prevent damage, a bench block is ideal but a leather covered piece of wood with a small hole drilled in it will work.
    4. Using a punch and small hammer lightly tap the offending pin towards the face... it don't take much, work slow and be careful. On most "new" molds the pins will move pretty easily, older molds may require a bit more aggression (especially iron molds that may have gotten rusty). Keep checking the fit; only move the pin just far enough to remove the movement and no further (keep in mind the other pin may need a little adjustment). If you go too far it may cause other issues such as excessive wear, difficulty opening/closing, or even incomplete closing.
    5. When you think you've got it, make sure the faces are spotlessly clean again, hold them together in front of a good light and check to make sure no light is passing between the blocks from any angle.

    Done.
    *
    Thank you so much for your time sir. This has been a great help. I can confirm that it's the alignment pin thats off.
    MP-molds is sending a replacement, as it require special tooling to correct. It's impossible with a punch and hammer.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,707
    I can see the problem now. Good you getting a replacement.

  6. #6
    Banned

    44man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    22,705
    I make my own molds and fit pins with blocks together. Things to do for by yourself. Super mold makers must hate to replace stupid. That pin can be adjusted with a punch. Special tooling???? A stinking hammer must be special. Sorry, I feel for our mold makers that do the best they can. But there are always some that say 2X2 equals 5. Cost is based on fixing what stupid sends back. Everything would be cheaper if you could think.

  7. #7
    Banned

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    soda springs Id.
    Posts
    28,094
    Jim they are press fit with an anvil.
    when we done the HM-2 molds I had them change how they were doing their Pins.
    they were going straight into the aluminum mold block so I had them add steel inserts with variegations on the outside of the inserts to keep them from moving when the mold was hot.

    MP uses a similar insert and if you force them improperly you could tear a chunk out of the corner of the mold.
    I have moved the pins in a mold that is exactly like this one.
    I heated the mold and forced the blocks together a little at a time.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    I make my own molds and fit pins with blocks together. Things to do for by yourself. Super mold makers must hate to replace stupid. That pin can be adjusted with a punch. Special tooling???? A stinking hammer must be special. Sorry, I feel for our mold makers that do the best they can. But there are always some that say 2X2 equals 5. Cost is based on fixing what stupid sends back. Everything would be cheaper if you could think.
    I did not demand a replacement, it was promptly expedited upon confirmation of pin error. I would like to fix this myself, but as you see, there is a reason MP ships a replacement immediately. But thanks for implying stupid for a beginner, that tries to do it right.

    I know you had a valid point, I am just terrified to damage the mold, void any warranty, because of the lack of experience.
    Last edited by Candjur; 04-30-2017 at 03:13 AM.

  9. #9
    Banned

    44man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    22,705
    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    Jim they are press fit with an anvil.
    when we done the HM-2 molds I had them change how they were doing their Pins.
    they were going straight into the aluminum mold block so I had them add steel inserts with variegations on the outside of the inserts to keep them from moving when the mold was hot.

    MP uses a similar insert and if you force them improperly you could tear a chunk out of the corner of the mold.
    I have moved the pins in a mold that is exactly like this one.
    I heated the mold and forced the blocks together a little at a time.
    Pins are always a problem. Some move, can't be helped. Darn, I have set screws unwind to drop half a mold into my water bucket. Things move. Not the mold makers fault. You must learn by yourself. I am sorry but a mold is so easy.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lebanon, NY
    Posts
    541
    Once you get the replacement, experiment with the old one to see if you can fix it.What you learn will be a help next time.Leo

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    outside of Sand Springs, N.E. OK
    Posts
    2,356
    so we are calling newbies with legit problems stupid now? I think he did the right thing, he listened to what the manufacturer wanted, and also avoided voiding his warranty and ending up empty handed, maybe not "handy" but certainly far from stupid. good luck with your new mold O.P.
    An armed man in a citizen.
    An unarmed man is a subject.
    A disarmed man is a slave.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check