Questions about casting

[machinest-man]

I am getting started with my casting project I am shooting so much I decided to cast my own pistol bullets I have bin buying several molds and ready to get started My question is with the mixing of the Lead, Tin and Antimony for a good recipe like am confused? Do I do it by the pound like 10 lbs of lead and so many lbs of tin and so much of Antimony. Can someone please get me started also when heating pot and mixing all in? Also about putting saw dust with mixture?

[Reddirt62]

Couple pages from Lyman Cast manual, hope this helps some.

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[machinest-man]

Thank you for your help!

[Hick]

Use the data from Reddirt 62. If you are not sure what mix to choose, a good starting point is Lyman alloy #2 (90-5-5). It was specifically developed for casting bullets, and does a good job. As you get more sophisticated, you may choose others for certain cases (mostly to tweak hardness)-- but some of us (myself included) have done just fine always using Lyman #2.

[Harter66]

Slow down ....... You're scaring yourself .

What pistols and cartridge are you shooting ?
There's a lot of difference between 38 super auto and 45 ACP in a 1911 and just as much between SASS 38s and full bore 357 .

You may not have to mix anything . Some #2 or hard ball will get you started for high pressure high speed autos and WW will do for everything else .

There are tomes about flux . A little bit of wax will force out the dirt and a couple of wooden matches with let you get the tin back in solution . .......maybe it's the other way around ......
Thermometer don't be like me , get 1 , keep the pot under 750° .

[shooting on a shoestring]

MM, welcome aboard.
Reddirt62 posted some good info above.
Ill say that for my low pressure pistol cartridges like 38 Special, 45 acp and 32 SWL, I don't measure the ingredients, I just give it a rough guess and see how the mounds fill out. If the boolits aren't getting sharp corners, I raise the pot heat a little and cast until I'm sure the mould is hot, if still not filling out well, I add a little tin, stir and cast, repeat until I like the looks of the boolits. I let then air cool, then size (if needed) lube and store till I'm ready to load them.

For my high pressure cartridges like ant of the magnum revolvers, 9 mm, 40 SW and the rifles, I weigh my metals and follow a recipe. Depending on how hard I need them, if not very hard I air cool. If I need harder, I'll drop them from the mound into a water bucket to water quench them, dry them out after I stop casting, then size and lube.

Ill caution you to not start water quenching until you get the basic casting worked out well. It adds complication. Also if you get water under the surface of the lead melt, it will give you a steam explosion and blow all the molten lead out of the pot.

As as for the order of casting, get your lead in the pot, heat it till it melts, add a pinch or two of saw dust and stir it in and around for a couple of minutes, skim off all stuff from the top of the melt until it's only shiny lead. Add the tin if you need some, start casting. Fill your mould (I prefer casting with a ladle) runn it over a little bit. The overage is the sprue you want it to be big enough to stay molten for about 5 seconds, Then when the sprue turns solid, use a mallet or wooden dowel to knock the sprue plate open and that will cut off the sprue. Tap the sides of the mound as you gently open it. If the boolits don't all fall out, tap the hinge pin of the mould handles until they do. Close gently and repeat.

i like to cast fast enough that my mould gets hot and the boolits come out frosted looking. Some people prefer running the mould cooler and getting shiny boolits. Both shoot the same.

I recommend standing while casting, using long sleeves, heavy jeans, eye protection and wear leather gloves. Sooner or later you'll get a little splash on you. It's not bad if you're covered up. Don't sit because you could get a lap full of lead if you spill.

Be careful, but do it. You'll make mistakes, just don't get frustrated or try to hurry. After a couple of pots you'll be casting fine.

[JohnH]

You're gonna get lots of answers to this question. I use straight wheel weight for everything. If you want or need something harder, you can heat treat it. Don't over think it. Don't over work it. Fit is more important than alloy. If you're shootin revolvers, the boolit must match or be slightly over size of the cylinder throat. If you're shootin' auto's boolits must match or be slightly over groove diameter.

[MaryB]

I use Lyman #2 for everything form 9mm, 380acp, 223 in my bolt rifle(reduced powder load for about 1200fps)...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I am getting started with my casting project I am shooting so much I decided to cast my own pistol bullets I have bin buying several molds and ready to get started My question is with the mixing of the Lead, Tin and Antimony for a good recipe like am confused? Do I do it by the pound like 10 lbs of lead and so many lbs of tin and so much of Antimony. Can someone please get me started also when heating pot and mixing all in? Also about putting saw dust with mixture?

You haven't mentioned what alloys you have?
If you have COWW (clip-On Wheel Weight) alloy, then I think JohnH gave you the best advice for someone just starting out.

You're gonna get lots of answers to this question. I use straight wheel weight for everything. If you want or need something harder, you can heat treat it. Don't over think it. Don't over work it. Fit is more important than alloy. If you're shootin revolvers, the boolit must match or be slightly over size of the cylinder throat. If you're shootin' auto's boolits must match or be slightly over groove diameter.

Now if you feel like reading?

The best book you can buy for instruction as well as Data, is the Lyman Cast bullet handbook #4

Also, in regards to alloys, the LASC link at the bottom of the page is one of the most complete and concise reference to casting alloys as I've ever seen. I refer to that page often.
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[fredj338]

If you are buying alloy, just buy it already in the composition you want. The voodoo of mixing alloy is for the scroungers.

[ikarus1]

If you are buying alloy, just buy it already in the composition you want. The voodoo of mixing alloy is for the scroungers.

Scroungers aka those from outside of Kommiefornistan where inert metals kill babies and condors.

[Jack Stanley]

Scroungers aka those from outside of Kommiefornistan where inert metals kill babies and condors.

And causes global warming and hunger in third world countries along with mental retardation of certain political classes in first world countries .

Jack

[fredj338]

Scroungers aka those from outside of Kommiefornistan where inert metals kill babies and condors.

I still scrounge, a lot. The lead ww has long been gone, but there is still berm mining & swapping & garage sales &, &. Someone gave me 25# in ingots the other day they got from a neighbor. So I do mix alloys, but the technical, this exact & that exact, not for me with most pistol bullets.

[Reddirt62]

^^^exactly! Weird how it just jeeps showing up locally.

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[ikarus1]

I still scrounge, a lot. The lead ww has long been gone, but there is still berm mining & swapping & garage sales &, &. Someone gave me 25# in ingots the other day they got from a neighbor. So I do mix alloys, but the technical, this exact & that exact, not for me with most pistol bullets.

Haha just messing with ya. We are all recyclers of the first order. You guys have it especially difficult I would imagine. Watching "elvisammo" in SC collecting his bucketfuls of COWWs one state away has me scratching my head. Evidently Im just not as connected.