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Thread: 3 in 1 oil ?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master

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    I like Breakfree CLP. 3in1 worked great on my bb guns 58 years ago.

    While at CST one of my instructors told us that WD40 got a bad rap about gumming up. According to him(Jack Belk) the problem was that WD40 mixed with other oils caused gumming. You needed to completely remove any other oils before leaving WD40 on a gun.

  2. #42
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    Leave WD40 out by itself. Over time it dries into a brown hard varnish. It has nothing to do w/ other oils. It has everything to do w/ the chemical makeup of WD40.

  3. #43
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    "Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State."

    Every thing I know about 3 in 1 I learned from Fletch.

  4. #44
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    When I was a tyke I used 3 in 1 and Hoppes #9 on my .22 I got for Christmas in the 60's. I oiled the daylights out of it. Then we moved from Pennsylvania to Camp Lejeune and the coastal air wasn't too friendly, but still no rust. In the late 60's we moved to upstate NY and I obtained a double barrel shotgun. Same drill. Over time I noticed that the oil was softening the stock of the shotgun, turning it black. I refinished the stock and coated it with Tru-oil. Never used 3-in-1 again.
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  5. #45
    Boolit Mold
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    3-in-1 is actually a penetrant, versus a lubricant. Clean with Hoppes No. 9 (I have some ORIGINAL with all that dangerous stuff in it, but it smells better!), then use "Breakfree" or military "CLP" - astounding stuff, a little bit goes a long way (Hey, it "fixed" the M-16s we had). Oh, and I agree with "Petrol & Powder" - KROIL is the stuff that breaks things up if you can't get it to go (It's a penetrant that's terrific for getting rusted brake drums off '49 Chevy trucks!). A great cleaner mix is Acetone & ATF - used by lots of bench-rest types.

  6. #46
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    .............I'm simple and the different types of stuff are probably amazing (especially if they do what they say they will). I use Hoppe's #9 to clean barrels after cast, and Hoppe's #9 and Sweet's 7.62 after jacketed. For semi auto anything I use Lubri-Plate on sliding surfaces. For bore protection all my wool mops carry Vactra #2 Way oil. Exterior steel protection is via Silicone sprayed cotton cloth.

    I make my own cleaning patches from Cotton Diaper Flannel. I stack 4 sq yards and cut them into strips, then into squares with a saddle makers knife edge leather shears. Good quality Fiskars style scissors also work. The Silicon wiping rags are 8" square Diaper Flannel sprayed with silicon spray, then rolled up and stored in plastic sandwich bags. You can make several years worth out of a sq yard

    .............Buckshot
    Last edited by Buckshot; 06-18-2017 at 12:45 AM.
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  7. #47
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    Buckshot: great idea on the cleaning patches and silicone cloths.

    All of the machines in my shop run on Amsoil 20-50 "Racing Oil." This stuff is the absolute best thing there is for compressor pumps as the oil migrates thru the pump and into the tank where it coats the inside walls and prevents or completely stops rusting thru of the tank. All of my compressors have had it since the beginning and none have one iota of rusty water coming out when drained. For you guys who live in humid places like FL or down south or on either coast this is the hottest tip I can give you.

    This stuff also doubles as Spindle and Way oil on the mills and lathes, but it also works really well for guns. The stuff is kind of sticky and stays on the job really well, and that's why I use it on my Mills and Lathes. For Bolt, Lever or Pump guns it's the hot tip.

    Randy
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  8. #48
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    For cleaning patch I use worn out t-shirts cotton type. It dose the job.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by garym1a2 View Post
    I just use a 50/50 mix of ATF/Mobile1
    same here , hasnt failed me yet !

  10. #50
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    Start looking at the MSDS sheets for various products. Take the CAS # from it and look it up. Before long, the term "snake oil" will enter your mind.

    I use 3 in 1 oil regularly. I've also seen firearms that are varnished from it. Simple fact is if you put any product on something and leave it in a closet for 45 years and I bet you'll need to clean it. Just the nature of the beast. 3 in 1 oil is fine for regular use. If you plan on storing something, clean it real good and rub it down with some wax.

    I use Hoppes #9 solvent, 3 in 1 oil and white lithium grease on everything and with regular maintenance they work just fine. Things that are stored have a wipe down with Johnsons Paste Wax.

    You don't need to pay $17 for 1oz of Super Slick Butterfly Fart Odin Squirt to keep things in good working order. 3-in-1 oil has worked for generations.

  11. #51
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    My grandmother loved to sew . As a result I've never been in a house without Singer oil .......well until recently . I've been through 2 dozen fancy pants wonder lubes , I shot a lots of duck in 10° . There are things that shouldn't gum up that balled up in gobs . I've washed the bluing of one shotgun with WD 40 as a wet day wipe down . After all of that fooling around with all sorts of slickum' WD-40 is the stuff I wash the tule sludge out of the actions with and Hoppes oil was on sale so I bought a qt to go with 2 qt of #9 . I have some GI CLP but it's saved for the bath and soak train wrecks that wander in .

    Pretty much Hoppes #9 and oil for now with Kroil when I have it ......the stuff keeps wandering away .
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  12. #52
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    My new (150yr old) Peabody is getting brake cleaner, engine degreaser, and 3in1 in that order. My 1967 T Bolt's stock came alive with a 3in1 wipe down with a cotton rag.

  13. #53
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  14. #54
    Boolit Master Walkingwolf's Avatar
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    I use the most expensive oil on the market that I can brag about on the internet.

    OK to be fair I don't use any oil at all, I clean my guns with soap, and water. I then do a voodoo dance around the gun like a chicken holding a chicken foot in each hand.

    Be aware that the dance does not work to protect the gun unless you do it in front of friends, and family.
    Last edited by Walkingwolf; 07-04-2017 at 02:46 PM.

  15. #55
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    WalkingWolf- youtube it so we get it right!
    Best, Thomas.

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  16. #56
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    I have one that I clean with Ivory soap and extremely hot water. Even so, after the dance I still have to spray it with RemOil......
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    Mineral Oil USP from the pharmacy, colorless, odorless, tasteless, nontoxic, inexpensive.

    ATF also excellent as is any modern 5w-30 synthetic motor oil.
    +1 on mineral oil. wipe on -- wipe off. Most of us put to much oil on our firearms

    “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils.
    the torque required to loosen them.
    Nothing: 516 lbs
    WD-40: 238 lbs;
    PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
    Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
    Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
    (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
    Last edited by Grmps; 07-08-2017 at 08:06 PM.

  18. #58
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    Dad's favorite oil. Other than engines if it needed oil it was 3 in 1
    [SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

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  19. #59
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    I've used 3 in 1 for over 50 years on my guns and always have a can of it on the bench. I've tried others along the way - I kind of like Rem Oil in the spray can as well. Might sound strange, but I also use Pure Virgin Olive Oil as a lubricant at times and have a can of that on the bench as well - clock makers have been using that for decades and decades for oiling clocks and fine movements. I often use that to oil my Uberti '51 Navy - and while some may raise an eyebrow it works very well both on the internals and for wiping the revolver down - but then you have to remember that once I shoot it with BP, it gets a thorough cleaning and re-oiling so it's not like the olive oil or any other lubricant I might use has a chance to gum up, etc. from sitting over a long period of time.

    Everybody has their favorites - in the 60s one of mine was "Dri-Slide" (sp?).

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
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    I use breakfree clp and buy it by the gallon.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check