If you could design your own casting furnace what features would you want?

[minmax]

I've been thinking of making a new electric down pour furnace, just as a project. I'm just trying to come up with different or new ideas. I have an idea of how I want to make the plunger rod assembly. I have been saving parts from electrical items, I want to have a hot plate built into the top and a PID. Maybe wrap the pour nozzle with resistance wire to keep it from freezing up. Maybe a second larger valve spout for emptying the pot or making ingots. Just wanted to know what others would do.
No, I'm not going to add an espresso machine or a beer tap to it.

[dragon813gt]

I want an 80# capacity and a nozzle that doesn't drip. I already have a PID and hot plate so they aren't needed. I just want more molten lead when casting.

[runfiverun]

i''m happy with the Magma 40 lb pot.
I added a chunk of 1/2" thick steel as a lid and it will melt the next ingot to go in the pot if I let it sit up there too long.
I mostly use it to pre-heat the mold [or the next mold] as well as the next ingot.
it has a spring to put pressure on the operating rod, and a dual pour spout so I fill 2 cavity's at once [also the option of one spout or no spout by changing out the base piece]
and the spring allows you to control the pour rate.
it has an actual dial that can be set to temperature and the mass of the pot and lead keeps it there.
a PID might help it some [shrug] but I won't be finding out I'm fine with it how it is.

[EDG]

I want to put a cap over the pot and run in argon or nitrogen or something that shields the top of the lead to stop oxidation of the metal.

As an alternate if I had a large automatic machine I would put the entire machine in a box that has been purged with argon to protect the molten alloy from oxidation.

Second would be to use the argon source to apply a low pressure to the alloy when pouring to force the metal into the molds similar to die casting.

I would like to experiment with automated equipment in a vacuum vessel. This would degas the alloy and protect the alloy from oxidation.

[Tazza]

Interesting idea of using an inert gas to prevent oxidation, is that really a problem when pouring though? When in the pot and molten, yes, i see the issue, but once cast, i have never had issues.

Interesting ideas though, argon is fairly cheap and you wouldn't need much to keep the pot covered if you leave a lid on it and only open it to add ingots.

[country gent]

What I would want to see in a custom pot.1) a larger capacity maybe 50-60 lbs. 2) an adjustable pour spout so flow could be easily regulated.. 3) a good friction free adjustable mould guide. 4) a pid controller

[wv109323]

+1 on country gent. I would want the mold guide to be adjustable for height and mold width. Also you might as well build in a controllable element to preheat and maintain mold temperature. Make sure the top is open to flux your lead.

[Cowboy_Dan]

How would this work? Two spouts with two handles, one set to lift the other. Pour one spout or two at will.

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

What EDG said, plus one!!

It would not take much pressure, and there would be no change as the pot level went down.

[minmax]

Cowboy_Dan, I was thinking a 2nd spout, like an electronic powder measurer.
I don't have the ability to make an auto caster or a lot of custom parts. I do like the idea of a pressure pot. It seems like you would get perfect fill out and no voids.
You might run into venting problems. Would different alloys need different preasure?

[jmorris]

When I made mine I went with a stainless needle for the valve and oraface plate that I can swap from I two two holes. 60 lbs capacity, might up that to 80 if I had a do over and I used a cheap oven element so replacing the heating element costs less than $20. I control heat with a PID and SSR.

The poor is connected to a time delay (off) relay via a 555 IC and 10 turn POT for fine tuning that once triggered has a solenoid pour lead for the preset time the same everytime.

I have a separate pot altogether for smelting vs my casting pot.

[minmax]

J Morrison, I'don't really like to see some pictures of your set up. What type of solenoid did you use?
I take it your using 220v. I wonder how much lead a 800 watt 110v element can melt, maybe 40-50 lbs?

[minmax]

Oh, and I want a stainless pot.

[country gent]

The casting dies for die cast machines are sealed and closed under much more pressure than our bullet moulds are. When the shot tube on these machines cycle the mish metal goes in right now and is a much stronger casting due to the pressures. WIth the way our dies are set up a lot of added pressure might result in fine sprays of molten metal.

[jmorris]

J Morrison, I'don't really like to see some pictures of your set up. What type of solenoid did you use?
I take it your using 220v. I wonder how much lead a 800 watt 110v element can melt, maybe 40-50 lbs?

i used a 3500 watt oven element 220 AC from Sears the solenoid is 12v DC from McMaster Carr.

800 watts would likely do it if you had insulation and enough time to wait.


You can see the notch/weld remains and trunnions left over from when it was a smelting pot. I cute he spout off and cleaned it whe I converted it to bottom pour.

Its 3/8" wall pipe with a 1/4" bottom welded on. Two bolts hold it in place and minimize contact/heat transfer with the rest of the contraption. Oversized holes allow for adjustment.

[HeavyMetal]

What a neat thread!

But some ideas seem a little over the top for an "average" caster's needs no matter how cool they are.

So my thoughts on a casting pot are a little simpler:

Never had a pot rust out so while stainless is nice it isn't really needed, now for valves and such yes.

so what would I want in a custom pot?

Minimum 20 pound capacity in a dual pot system for starts, top pot to run continuous pre melt Bottom pot to cast out of, top pot being used to keep the bottom pot at the same basic level so lead flow and temp stays very stable.

Pid for both with separate controls, and replaceable stainless steel spout and valve system, with the option to change from single to double spout for those who think they need it.

The unit should be set up so the incoming voltage can be either 110 or 220 as the user has need of, sadly many homes have no 220 outlet so power needs should be versatile.

A stable base a must to prevent tip over and maybe a support strap so those of us in earthquake prone areas can anchor the set up securely.

Now a place to put molds to both pre heat and keep stable when casting will be needed and should be run near the bottom pot, some run two molds some more but Two seem to be all I can handle at one time, and Two six cavity lee's can create a pile of boolits in a hurry, if the lead supply is present and uninterrupted.

I currently have a a set up pretty close to what I've described and it works pretty darn good, I also know several others have set ups very similar to mine and they report much success with them.

[ascast]

I would like to have an "add on" to my wood stove. I have an indoor wood furnace which has yet to be hooked up. This will be in the garage and plumbed in parallel with the oil furnace. I want a bottom pour.
I would like an electric or gas fired spout or tap so that the pot (40#'s min) would be in the stove and the casting done outside of stove without a cooled and plugged spout. I run the stove from October until now-ish. That's a lot of melted lead. I have done a lot of casting over wood and with practice the temp can be pretty easy to maintain stability. Perhaps something free standing on wheels that can be pushed up to plug the hole when the door is wide open.

[minmax]

Ascast, I was trying to figure out a way to make a wood burning down pour setup.
It would be good for camping, hunting, apocalypse...

HeavyMetal, never heard of a pot rusting out either. I just want it to look nice after casting though.

[Beagle333]

I would say 40#+ capacity, but mostly everything else like a Pro Melt.
Yep, I'd want a 40# Pro Melt.

'Not a necessity, but a heated spout wouldn't hurt, for when I'm casting in the winter. (I cast outdoors)

[minmax]

I cast with the garage door open in winter (cracked). If the wind is just right. I notice a drop in temp on the PID. Lee 4/20. My Lyman mag 20 the spout freezes, even after rebuild with all new parts. Temp cranked to 800*