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Thread: Mold Conditioning

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    6061 T6 is what everyone claims to make their mould from .

    Little tidbit , the MS and AN Aviation standards were established in 1939 and remain unchanged . Kinda makes me smile at the claim of parts made from Aircraft billet .
    Some of the worst castings I've ever handled were lead control surface balance weights . Voids , garbage in the cast , surface slag , all in a single ruddavator counter balance on a 1950 Beechcraft C 35 .

    The process control is better and does produce a better product even if the standards are 85 yr old .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

  2. #22
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    44man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasGrunt View Post
    WD-40 is not water soluble.
    Dish soap. Never let WD-40 dry. Wash when wet.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master



    Bzcraig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6622729 View Post
    In regards to lube and wrinkles, I should have been more clear. I cleaned the mold and ran it dry to see if I could duplicate the wrinkles. I was molding great from both cavities then lubed the sprue plate and immediately had wrinkles. I've had to rewash a mold to fix that or I have waited it out with a dozen or more cycles to get rid of the wrinkles. In any case, I got through it all and the 2 cavity Lee mold is doing great!
    I too use a hotplate to preheat the mold and maybe drop it back on for a minute or town in the middle of a run if I feel the mold is colling down a little.
    The key to keeping lube out of the cavities is to fill the mold, cut the spruce, then use a qtip with lube on one end on the underside of sprue plate and hinge screw then use dry side of qtip to absorb excess.
    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same......." - Ronald Reagan

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  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Check with LBT (Lead Bullet Technology) for some lube sticks.

    Small cylinders of a wax like material with I suspect possibly some graphite included. A few inches long and about the thickness of the small pencils you see once in awhile.

    Take your hot molds and QUICKLY touch the lube stick the hinge point and your mold is lubed.

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  5. #25
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    Butane will have an oily smoke, use a stick match.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    Butane will have an oily smoke, use a stick match.
    Most stick matches have a wax coating. You have to let that burn off. NOE recommends a butane lighter. It's all I use. Never seen oily smoke from doing it. Every time I've had to smoke a mold with my butane lighter boolit quality has immediately improved.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

    NRA Patriot Life Endowment member.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master



    w5pv's Avatar
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    All I use is Kroil,the best that I have found,no smoking or other preparation just clean and go to casting
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
    I have been hoodwinked but not by"o"
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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    my blocks are scrap aircraft aluminum. It is tough stuff. It does not oxidize.
    I don't have any reason to question your results, but you've reached an incorrect conclusion, it does oxidize, and pretty quickly at that.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    What I've found to be an excellent lube for my moulds, both iron and aluminum is dielectric silicone grease. A little bit goes a long way and it doesn't migrate into the cavities. Can be found at auto parts stores. Gp

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    In truth the A/C aluminum does oxidize but is corrosion resistant so the oxide layer behaves like bluing on steel being a controlled rust .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check