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Thread: Newbie at casting and coating

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Newbie at casting and coating

    Hello this is my first post. Ive been lurking cast pages for some time and decided to get into it since powdercoating came about. My problem is im not sure what to pitch and what to size and load. Im getting basket marks on the bullets and feel like they should be remelted but most have these marks. Am i being over cautious or no?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master




    Bzcraig's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard solider! Are you pc'ing or using hitek?
    "It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather, we should thank God that such men lived." - George Patton

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Ive tried to post a pic but wont work from my phone. Im using harbor freight red in a fankford tumbler for 15 min putting in a basket to strain extra powder then toss in oven for 20 min at 400

  5. #5
    Boolit Man daloper's Avatar
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    I am no expert but I started with Harbor Freight Red. First thing I can suggest is to get your paint from Smoke4320. I was amazed at the better coverage I got while using his powder and BB's. Next think is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and stand them up on a silicon backing sheet. I put mine in a #5 bowl and shake and swirl for 1 to 2 minutes. Bake at 400 for 20 minutes. Make sure that you verify the temp of your oven. I bought a convection oven and with it set at 375 it maintains the 400 degrees. I also put a tray in the bottom slide to deflect the direct heat from the bottom heating element.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    I went with the HiTek coating , lot less work and works great, powder coating is good too but just more tedious
    KB5SMG Advanced Class since 1994 - I like 1911s got one in ever cal but 22 TCM


  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    Welcome to the fun and games of casting and PC

    HF is not a forgiving powder but it will work. I, too stared with it

    by standing them up you only will have marks on base which is no big deal.

    Even if they are on sides of bullets, stop and consider: the barrel steel will smooth them right now as soon as they start their trip to the target--try them as this is the final test that is really the only one that counts.

    please be sure NOT TO USE THE KITCHEN OVEN as there is an off-gassing that will leave a thin film inside--it will build up the more you use the oven.

    I use the hemostats and set each one on its base. my trays will hold 150+ bullets and while cooking one I can load the next. usually do 3 trays before I take a break or go on to something else.

    keep working with it as PC is part 'art' as well as science
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  8. #8
    Super Moderator


    runfiverun's Avatar
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    the wire marks ain't that big of a deal.
    think about how much naked lead rubs down a barrel on a regular lubed boolit.

    when you size them much of that wire mark will disappear and the ones that don't probably don't touch metal anyway.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  9. #9
    Boolit Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I stand my bullets up for baking so like Walter, only faint marks on the base. It doesn;t seem to affect accuracy, but I have never Ransom rested them. When I get some time I will tryu an extensive testing of PC & HT with perfect bases & not so.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Harbor freight Red will work but as said, other powders will do better. I still use HF red on occasion. One thing I have noticed, when people are talking about cook time and temp. Every powder I have used, states "x" minutes AFTER paint is melted. So if it is a 15 minute bake time, you are most likely looking at 25+ minutes. AS for what to keep...size them and test them. In a pistol round I doubt you will notice any loss in accuracy. YMMV

  11. #11
    Boolit Man CASTER OF LEAD's Avatar
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    First off welcome to the forum, lots of priceless information here and lots of people who are happy to answer your questions . So long as you keep up your end by looking 1st. +1for using Powder from Smoke. Also +1 for temperature verification. I use an el cheapo dial thermometer I bought at Wal-Mart. Also do a smash test to ensure you got the PC cured properly. I sacrifice 1 of each batch just to be certain that things are still in line. You can always resmelt these, so no loss of alloy.
    I prefer to pre size ,then PC , then some of them (mostly pistol boolits) I run through a push through sizer to smooth any roughness from the bearing surfaces. Not sure it is needed,but makes me feel better. Just my .02- CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master



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    PLUS 1 on Smokes Powder (get the sample pack at first).I only swirl a 30-35 count,but I coat,size and recoat,OCD ya-no . And two colors attract the pretty girls .
    Quote Originally Posted by daloper View Post
    I am no expert but I started with Harbor Freight Red. First thing I can suggest is to get your paint from Smoke4320. I was amazed at the better coverage I got while using his powder and BB's. Next think is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and stand them up on a silicon backing sheet. I put mine in a #5 bowl and shake and swirl for 1 to 2 minutes. Bake at 400 for 20 minutes. Make sure that you verify the temp of your oven. I bought a convection oven and with it set at 375 it maintains the 400 degrees. I also put a tray in the bottom slide to deflect the direct heat from the bottom heating element.
    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    Dalapor, gave you very good advice, I would suggest you go with it. However most powders only require 400 degrees for 10 minutes, but the extra time is not a problem.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I agree with using smokes powder, as well as his methods. It just works, period. The marks from the wire basket really aren't a problem for most pistol applications. Won't need to worry about it until you get up there in fps.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check