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Thread: Die locking rings

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Johnny_V's Avatar
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    Definitely the Hornady. Locks Down solid, and can tighten or loosen with a wrench. Plus, they will NEVER damage the threads.
    Your Feedback is appreciated
    Johnny V
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    troyboy's Avatar
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    Prefer Lee lock rings.
    "It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees" Looking for an RCBS Ammomaster and H&R shotgun barrels regardless of condition

  3. #23
    Boolit Man

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    Hornady lock rings are the best. All my Lee dies wear them. Never need adjustment. Perfect for loading on the single stage press.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Some dies and die sets do not require precision settings or high quality lock rings.

    Straight wall FL dies don't for example and you can use almost any old ring.

    Some dies need to be locked but setting them is not tedious. That includes a lot of expander and seating dies. For these dies you often lock the body in place and do the fine adjusting with
    the expander or seater stem.

    FL dies for bottle neck cases where you want precision control of the shoulder location need a good locking ring.
    For this precision application I like the Forster, RCBS and Hornady split clamping dies.

    In general I loathe the Lee O ring locking rings but I still use them on some easy to set die and die sets that do not see a lot of use.

    I also loathe the lead shot under the set screw set up. Get rid of the lead and use a piece of nylon screw or a nylon ball.
    The nylon is elastic and when you back off the set screw the nylon springs away from the die threads allowing you to easily turn the die body.
    EDG

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Ooh, I like the idea of a nylon ball or piece of a nylon rod or so, should work better than the lead. The only problem with the lead is even after you loosen the set screw you still need to use a tool to move the lock ring since the lead does sort of stick to the threads.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Mar 2005
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    True because the lead is not elastic. When it is smashed against the threads it just stays there wedged tight until you hit the ring right on top of the set screw.
    The nylon is not my idea. Lyman used nylon balls under their set screws back in the 1960s until they went to the clamp ring design.

    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    Ooh, I like the idea of a nylon ball or piece of a nylon rod or so, should work better than the lead. The only problem with the lead is even after you loosen the set screw you still need to use a tool to move the lock ring since the lead does sort of stick to the threads.
    EDG

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    dillon/forster, even the lee dies without the oring work well...

  8. #28
    Boolit Master wrench man's Avatar
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    My newer RCBS dies have retained their hex lock nuts, all other have been converted to the Dillon lock nuts, I have the Dillon wrench but I prefer an ordinary boxend wrench, I set them and forget them!
    ASE master certified engine machinist
    Brake & Alignment specialist, ricer to class 8

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    If you are using a lock ring with a set screw and lead slug, a quick rap on the set screw with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle will let it turn freely. I prefer a split ring like the Hornady. Sinclair makes a nice one, somewhat expensive, that I use on my Giraud trimmer. I keep a wrench on my bench that fits the hex nut style rings.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    dragon813gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    I like the Lee rings, and use them on all brands of dies.
    Same here. Dies get moved between presses to often. I need them to hold at the time of use. Not for a permanent setting.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    mdi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    The trick to using the set screw on the RCBS rings and not bugger up the threads is to first thread the ring onto the die. Then remove the set screw, put about 3-4 small #8 lead shotgun pellets in the hole. Then put the set screw in, the lead pellets will crush and form to the threads. This way you can still tighten down the set screw but the lead buffer formed by the pellets prevents the threads of the die from getting buggered up. This way if you have to readjust them you can loosen the ring, adjust it, and retighten with no damage.
    Or you could just get nylon tipped set screws, designed to not damage threads...https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=17b6do8
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Dec 2013
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    I have used pretty much all kinds of lock rings, and even though initially I didn't care much for the Lee lock rings they have grown on me. One thing that really makes them work well is to get the plastic tool from Titan that they sell for tightening them down. This tool just makes it easier to get a feel for tightening them down consistently and tight enough to really lock them in. It also makes it extremely easy to loosen them and readjust them in a jiffy.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    I like the split ring Hornady rings. Now if
    fhey only made them as thick as the Forster ones for
    the Co-ax I'd be perfectly happy.

    The brass set screw RcBS was the most aggravating along with Redding. The Redding set screw simply never held for me.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check