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Thread: The Mother Of All Drill Presses!

  1. #101
    Boolit Master
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    Because you have a 3ph generator, might be fun to hook it up once setting in the haybarn, start it up, run through all of the gears and feeds, see what you have. Don't swing the arm off the base footprint for safety. Most likely uses turbine oil in the drill head for lube oil. ( AW46 ) Most likely everything is fine, but now would be a good time to know before anymore money goes into it, or a location for it ??
    Chris

  2. #102
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    Make a wood frame to hold the tarp up off the machine and put a vent as high up on each side as you can with some window screen duct taped in place... will keep dust/bird droppings off an will breathe to let moisture out. I would still make sure to use a rust preventative though!

  3. #103
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    That's why I was thinking something out of canvas to breath?

    I have two issues ..... one will be the interim storage in our hay shed. One of our issues there is barn swallows. They are getting ready to do their digging and dabbing...

    I am a big fan of Corrosion X and my thought is to use it and cover with a breathing material.
    Being able to not trap moisture would be a bonus. Mud daubers are a constant PITA around here, I think I could deal with birds easier.

    I used to make all of the "handy spray" application systems for Corrosion X.





    If you look close, you can see they are actually propane tanks. Add a fill port and chase the NPT threads in the top with straight threads for the fluid control valve and I machined brass dip tubes in the various lengths to siphon the fluid out.

    You might know that Jim has many different formulas of his product, I mostly use the aviation stuff but it's all pretty good stuff.

  4. #104
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    Hmmm, I have a lot of old propane tanks!

    I was aware that there were different formulas. I have the regular or gun one and the "HD" versions thus far.

    We also have a Cub that used to be a PA18A from the factory and after my father bought it ......... and a few years of flying it .......... he had to spring for a major rebuild culminating in rebuilding it with a new ..... non "A" airframe ....... big bucks! Some CorrosionX might have saved there as well.

    Mark
    Last edited by Three44s; 05-02-2017 at 09:54 AM.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwheel View Post
    Because you have a 3ph generator, might be fun to hook it up once setting in the haybarn, start it up, run through all of the gears and feeds, see what you have. Don't swing the arm off the base footprint for safety. Most likely uses turbine oil in the drill head for lube oil. ( AW46 ) Most likely everything is fine, but now would be a good time to know before anymore money goes into it, or a location for it ??
    Chris
    Chris,

    Yes ....... it would better to get any bad news before we invest sweat and treasure. To the press's credit, the fellow who ran it for the county said it was working fine right up until the bean counters decided to get rid of it ....... they parked in a shed and it sat there for 1 to 1 1/2 years and then was hauled to the auction yard sometime prior to the 4/15 sale and I suspect that's where most of it's rust formed.

    We have to maintenance and operation book (courtesy of the county) for it and it lists the oil type in a way I am not used to but also, we have an invoice dated back in '06 where they bought a 5 gallon can of Chevron oil for it ........ AW 220 machine oil .......

    Besides the generator option, I can ..... carefully carry the drill over to our shop and it's 3 ph power for a test.

    Thank you and best regards

    Mark

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaryB View Post
    Make a wood frame to hold the tarp up off the machine and put a vent as high up on each side as you can with some window screen duct taped in place... will keep dust/bird droppings off an will breathe to let moisture out. I would still make sure to use a rust preventative though!
    Mary,

    That's a great idea and better than my idea of merely using canvas.

    Thank you and best regards

    Mark

  7. #107
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    Mary's idea is good but you will also have to add something to keep the birds from roosting on it. I.E. keep them out from under the tent. Some sort of wall that drops to the floor. Could be screen if you have it.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  8. #108
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    Wayne Smith,

    Oh ........... like starlings? LOL!

    It's in a hay shed right now and sitting on a pair of RR ties so gathering it up would likely be our only path.

    And then there are our grey digger squirrels ........

    Seems like some guns fit in here?

    I have some fair 20 ga. shotguns along with other gauges and my youngest nephew has a brand new 12 ga. Berretta auto and he's taken up all three of the shotgun sports (trap, skeet and clays) and he's itchin' to get at it ....... (if it moves, it grooves) .....

    Thanks and best regards

    Mark
    Last edited by Three44s; 05-02-2017 at 11:03 AM.

  9. #109
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    Hi Mark.For a cover for your treasure,you might try contacting a company that supplies REAL canvas sail cloth for sailboats,it comes in many different weights.A friend in Florida has been using it for years with no problems.Just as suggested,use vents to bleed off any moisture that might be present.It is also very washable.How to wash it is information that can be gotten from the supplier.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  10. #110
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    We used to have a great solution to keeping the birds out, a owl. Nothing liked nesting in the haybarn while she was there nesting. Think she might have winter killed, didn't come back this spring. Trouble with that was, she made more of a mess than all of the other nests combined, but 5 cats couldn't do the job on our mice that she did. AW 220?? a little different, but I'd sure use what they recommend. Often condensate gets into the sumps, if it's not milky, I'd use it at least for a test. If milky, I'd drain and replace.
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  11. #111
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    I have barn swallows that try to nest in the corners under my second story deck. I hate getting dive bombed so i break the nests up and toss them, they usually get the hint to move on! Had a pair that refused to leave, no eggs laid, nest was never finished... they ended up being garden fertilizer after I used a tennis racket on them. I always keep a couple yard sale cheap rackets around, I get the occasional bat in the house...

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwheel View Post
    We used to have a great solution to keeping the birds out, a owl. Nothing liked nesting in the haybarn while she was there nesting. Think she might have winter killed, didn't come back this spring. Trouble with that was, she made more of a mess than all of the other nests combined, but 5 cats couldn't do the job on our mice that she did. AW 220?? a little different, but I'd sure use what they recommend. Often condensate gets into the sumps, if it's not milky, I'd use it at least for a test. If milky, I'd drain and replace.
    Chris,

    Those owls are workers for sure!

    In the front of the manual someone hand wrote: "Texaco Aircraft 100 oil 50 wt."

    Within the lubrication section in print the manufacturer states to use " high grade machine oil, specific gravity .979, Redwood viscosity 990 seconds at 100 degrees F.

    Mark

  13. #113
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    You might want to call your petroleum supplier and ask about that one. Might cross over to something common. Machine tool manufactures will sometimes spec a odd product, especially if the tool is made off shore. I have a feeling that a good turban oil is what that gear box needs, question might be what weight ?? The thing that's important is that it's clean and free of any water or condensate. I've had to take apart and repair several lathe headstocks where condensate or water got into the gearbox and destroyed the bearings, done a job on the gear train. If you can't keep it in a nice dry shop, only other thing is to change the oil often to enough keep it clean and moisture free. Don't know what to tell you on this one except that on the larger radials I've run, each one ran AW-46 turban oil in the gear box, Carlton, American Hole Wizard, several sizes of Cincinnati Bickford, all the same. A call to your petroleum distributor should clear that one up. I'm sure the salesman would like to steer you towards a product that costs like liquid gold, but my question to them would be will AW-46 do the same job ?? Main point is that if there is milky looking lube oil in that gear case, change it out as soon as you can, if you are using it or letting it just sit under a tarp to prevent internal rust forming in the gear box. A 5 gallon bucket might end up being enough for 2 oil changes on your size drill.
    Chris

  14. #114
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    I thought of it, Mark, because we just put up screens to keep birds off the blueberries in our back yard. Tenting over it would be useful, but birds will get under it and roost - then acidic bird droppings on the machinery - not good.

    I grew up with four floors of laying chickens in the barn in Maine. Barn was 40ftx60ft, so lots of chickens. We had cats, but the barn owls kept most of the mice down. Cats play with their food, terriers will go through a nest and kill them all, and owls eat more than cats!
    Wayne the Shrink

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  15. #115
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    Chris,

    I think you are right about the presence of water in the gear boxes to be more detrimental than the issue of matching the nature and viscosity of that oil to some minute degree.

    Furthermore, Lucas Oil produces and markets a product called Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer that I have a great deal of respect for and it has gear box duty written all over it (Power Punch is the original formula product).

    The addition of the Lucas or Power Punch products aid in both how a lubricant "carries up" and how well it resists it's film strength breaking down.

    Best regards and thank you

    Mark

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    I thought of it, Mark, because we just put up screens to keep birds off the blueberries in our back yard. Tenting over it would be useful, but birds will get under it and roost - then acidic bird droppings on the machinery - not good.

    I grew up with four floors of laying chickens in the barn in Maine. Barn was 40ftx60ft, so lots of chickens. We had cats, but the barn owls kept most of the mice down. Cats play with their food, terriers will go through a nest and kill them all, and owls eat more than cats!
    Hmmm,

    I think the cats on your family farm were probably too distracted by all those tasty feathered friends to remember that borrowed phrase: Mice, it's what's for dinner!

    Best regards

    Mark

  17. #117
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    An adult laying chicken will peck a cat to death if necessary, and dozens of them definitely will. They left the chickens alone, but with up to 21 cats/kittens we had few mice.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    An adult laying chicken will peck a cat to death if necessary, and dozens of them definitely will. They left the chickens alone, but with up to 21 cats/kittens we had few mice.
    Wayne,

    I was thinking of hatchlings and other younger birds.

    Best regards and thank you

    Mark

  19. #119
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    Mark, there is one last thing I can think of that might need passing off if your main intent might be line boring. When you lower your spindle on that drill, you will notice a slot milled into the spindle used to drift out Morse tapers and change tools. When doing line boring, one of the reasons for making your own bars and tapers is to avoid using Morse taper adapter sleeves. Any bar you use for boring should be a proper sized taper, with the proper sized tang for your spindle. When your tooling is inserted into the spindle, you need to have a hole drilled and tapped into the tang of the proper size to retain the bar. We often used a large set screw that would lock the bar in the taper. This hole that was drilled and tapped into the tang of the boring bar was placed into the tang so when the set screw was inserted it would rest on the bottom of the extraction slot in the bar. With the locking screw shorter than the spindle's diameter, the spindle could still go up fully. This same locking screw idea is used with a boring head, when tapping single point, or any time there was a uneven load on the spindle to retain the tooling. Not necessary when drilling. If you have seen this done, my apologies for mentioning it, if you haven't see a line boring setup on a radial, it's something to think about, could prevent messing up a job when the tooling falls out of the spindle.
    Chris

  20. #120
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    Chris,

    Thanks again for the input. I've heard or read some of what you post but not all previously so it's good you thought of it!

    For point of reference, our drill has two slots and I have read that it is an advantage to have both. Thanks to your help I am a little clearer on what is involved to line bore.

    Best regards

    Mark

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check