Looking for advice/recommendations for revolvers

[BlackIce05]

That's kind of the conclusion I've come to so far, that the 2 are near equal. I am very mechanically inclined, always have been. Which is why a large selection of aftermarket upgrades is a plus. I can't leave things alone, gotta tinker. So far I'm keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced used revolver, but if I don't find that, then next time I can get into a Cabela's or GM, then I'll see which feels the best in my hand, if they both fit fine, then I'm not sure which I'd pick. But until then I'm still open to suggestions and recommendations. There's a ton of revolver stuff out there that I don't know and it's kinda overwhelming trying to jump into it on my own. So whenever someone suggests something, I go look at it and learn a little. I don't have any S&W anything, and the only ruger I have is a 10/22, so at this point brand loyalty isn't a factor. Also I'm not all that concerned about trigger pull on either, because from what I've read, that's relatively easy to customize to my desire. Same with grips, although I have a little more trouble with that one since changing grips changes the fit in your hand.

[BlackIce05]

Also, doesn't Taurus make Rossi, or Rossi makes Taurus or something like that? Not that I have anything against either, I was looking pretty hard at Taurus at one point but seemed like a lot of unhappy customers, they do have an attractive price tag though.

[CDRGlock]

OK - I've been trying REALLY HARD to avoid getting into a Ruger vs. S&W debate on this thread but I can't take it anymore.

Full disclosure - I own a lot of S&W revolvers and a lot of Ruger revolvers. I've also owned (past tense) a lot of S&W and Ruger revolvers over the years.
They are BOTH great revolvers in my opinion.

I grow weary of the glowing comments about the quality of S&W actions (they are generally very good) and the comments that the S&W is capable of better accuracy than a Ruger (probably not true).
I grow equally as weary when people disparage the Rugers as having horrible triggers. (OK, they're probably not great out of the box)

The fact is, the S&W L-frames (581, 586, 681, 686) are fantastic guns. The Ruger GP-100's are fantastic guns. The debate about which is better has been running since the mid 1980's and it shows no sign of relenting. It's Ford vs. Chevy trucks for crying out loud !

When the GP-100 was first released it had a seriously heavy main spring. The GP-100 got a bad reputation for its DA pull. Ruger remedied that a few years later but the "out of the box" DA trigger has never been all that great. S&W had a clear advantage when talking about bone stock, "out of the box", DA actions.

However, the Ruger trigger isn't as horrible as it's often described and it can absolutely be greatly improved with just a little work. If you're not a real mechanically inclined person, the S&W may be a better choice. I can make a GP-100 trigger as good as any new S&W but I can't make it as good as an old S&W.
That being said, the Ruger is a seriously strong gun and they can shoot incredibly well. I'm not a little girly-man; what some people call a grossly heavy trigger, I classify as an average service grade trigger. As long as the action is smooth and breaks cleanly; it will probably shoot just fine for me.

There's more to a good revolver than trigger pull. Both guns are incredibly strong. The Ruger may hold a slight advantage but it's not a significant advantage. Both guns are proven to be incredibly durable. The Ruger generally holds a price advantage when new. The S&W may have slightly better "out of the box" quality. Ruger has great customer service. The new S&W has the "Hillary Hole" but it doesn't affect the operation of the gun. Both guns can suffer from thread choke where the barrel passes through the frame.

Overall; It's a wash between the two.
Personally, the best shooting .357 mag I ever owned was a S&W model 681 but I would take a GP-100 over the S&W, if given the choice.

Great post.

Out of the box, one of my best 3 shot groups from factory ammo was from a Ruger GP 100 from 10 yards, double action, freehanded.

This is the little man in the corner of a B2 target.

I have hit the 1 cm bullseye from a S&W 627 Performance Center 5" at 25 yards with my reloads, though.




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[Petrol & Powder]

That's kind of the conclusion I've come to so far, that the 2 are near equal. I am very mechanically inclined, always have been. Which is why a large selection of aftermarket upgrades is a plus. I can't leave things alone, gotta tinker. So far I'm keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced used revolver, but if I don't find that, then next time I can get into a Cabela's or GM, then I'll see which feels the best in my hand, if they both fit fine, then I'm not sure which I'd pick. But until then I'm still open to suggestions and recommendations. There's a ton of revolver stuff out there that I don't know and it's kinda overwhelming trying to jump into it on my own. So whenever someone suggests something, I go look at it and learn a little. I don't have any S&W anything, and the only ruger I have is a 10/22, so at this point brand loyalty isn't a factor. Also I'm not all that concerned about trigger pull on either, because from what I've read, that's relatively easy to customize to my desire. Same with grips, although I have a little more trouble with that one since changing grips changes the fit in your hand.

A few points:
1. Don't limit yourself to Cabelas and Grander Mtn. - in fact, I would avoid them, they're overpriced.
2. Don't limit yourself to new guns, you'll pay a premium and if you educate yourself a little, there are good used revolvers for sale.
3. The Rugers usually start below the cost of the S&W's and if you have some mechanical skill, some tools and some time - you can turn that price difference in your favor.

[10-x]

Been around awhile so all but 2 of my S&W revolvers are pre 80's. Still look for "drawer revolvers", surprised whats out there. Love my M 19, killed a deer with it back in 78 kind of on a bet. Neck shot at about 70 yds, DRT. M 28 after a trigger job will be carry piece when hunting again( get back fixed).
Buy what you want, but Id get a grip on as many as you can to get the feel and balance. Actual grips can be changed but how one feels in ones hand is unique. Keep us posted.
Doug, pretty sure you dont remember me, been 4 years? came by your place with a friend from Butner, you fixed a 45 Colt cylinder on my Ruger Blackhawk. Have possums, leave em alone most of the time, but also had rats. *#;: rat got in RV and chewed under dash, insurance co did not like that. Use commercial bait stations now. We try and feed one young male coon as well as the birds and treerats. This coon comes early, eats and heads to the marsh to socialize. He will watch you as you put the left overs, scraps, refrig. clean out down for him. Seems not to be diseased. Id love to have another pet one but Ga. wont allow it, and would not consider having one if couldnt take it to the vet.

[hylander]

I have been mowing over this dilemma myself.
I have chosen GP-100 6' stainless.
Both the GP and the 686 feel pretty good to me.
One thing I like about the Ruger is that you can change the front sight easily.
Also lots of grip choices.
Last deciding factor was the Ruger's we got in at the shop have less than .006 B/C gap
and the 686 has .009 gap, to much for me, the one I chose has less then .004 gap.
Also ran a tight patch through the bore and can not feel any barrel constriction.
However the trigger pull on the 686 is awesome, but an hour of work on the Ruger will make it pretty close to the same.

[Sasquatch-1]

Congratulations on your new purchase.

But really, a 6 foot barrel! won't that make it a little hard to transport and aim?

I have been mowing over this dilemma myself.
I have chosen GP-100 6' stainless.

[BlackIce05]

I don't actually plan on buying one from Cabela's or GM, just thought I'd try to get in there to hold a few and see what fits the best. Although I suppose there's a very high risk of getting my hands on one and not being able to let go. Wouldn't be the first time. I'm very open to a used revolver, almost prefer it, but seems like everything I find that I'm interested in is close enough to new price that I may as well get new. Also, what is B/C gap? and what kind of measurement are you looking for?

[Walkingwolf]

I just picked up my police trade in model 64-5 today, it had a B/C gap of .005, new is usually around .004. It is the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone. I paid about double for the gun from what it sold for new to a police dept, but still less than half price of a new 64. It is a DAO only, which I am watching for a hammer, and trigger. Also the grips were those nasty hogue grips, already ordered a new set of service grips from S&W for $44, I believe their grips are made by Altmont.

If you watch the dealers like J&G you might be able to snag a 586 police trade in.

[Walkingwolf]

Congratulations on your new purchase.

But really, a 6 foot barrel! won't that make it a little hard to transport and aim?

Ask the Joker.

[Petrol & Powder]

I don't actually plan on buying one from Cabela's or GM, just thought I'd try to get in there to hold a few and see what fits the best. Although I suppose there's a very high risk of getting my hands on one and not being able to let go. Wouldn't be the first time. I'm very open to a used revolver, almost prefer it, but seems like everything I find that I'm interested in is close enough to new price that I may as well get new. Also, what is B/C gap? and what kind of measurement are you looking for?

B/C gap is Barrel to Cylinder gap. It's the distance between the face of the cylinder and the breach end of the barrel. Typically it should be less than .010" and ideally it should be closer to about .006". The minimum is .003" -.004" (depends a bit on which revolver we're talking about).

B/C Gap is measured with a feeler gauge. It is the minimum distance between those two parts (cylinder held forward). When the cylinder gap is measured with the cylinder held to the rear you will generally receive a larger measurement; the difference between those two measurements is known as "end shake". Excessive end shake is a problem and may be a sign of a worn crane (yoke). Excessive end shake can often be corrected with shims or swaging the yoke tube. However, excessive end shake should give pause to a perspective buyer of a used revolver.

[Drm50]

Attachment 193615I have more than a few revolvers, in fact more than a few 357s. If I was to be in the market for
a 357 the two I would look at would be S&W M19 6" or M28 6". Both these can be picked up used
in excellent shape for $5-$600. Due to the fad on short barrel guns 6" models are the buy. I find
the S&Ws are a lot smoother actions than Ruger and not as clubby.The best 19s are up to -3, the
28s are -2s, these have pinned barrels and counter bored cylinders. I don't do stainless but some
guys like them. As far as I'm concerned if you are buying new one is no better than the other. I
didnt mention M27 which is top of the line N frame because they are pricey, 28 is same gun made
in less fancy police version, also on N frame.Attachment 193612Attachment 193613Attachment 193614

[Sasquatch-1]

Here are a couple of videos Larry Potterfield of Midway that might help in your search.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JII_...uOfBg&index=38
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95xjizDOrcc

[BlackIce05]

All of these pictures are making me want one all that much more. Yes those videos were very informative, thanks. Another question I forgot to ask previously, and honestly not sure if I want to ask, but what is a "Hillary hole"?

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

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[BlackIce05]

Ah ok, thanks. So S&W is the only one that has that hole?

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

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[BlackIce05]

Good to know, as far as new goes, that's a point for the Ruger in my book. I do like that Match Champion. I saw Bud's has the one like yours with the novak sights back up.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

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[BlackIce05]

I'm definitely open to used guns, but most that I find that appeal to me are so close to new price that I might as well just get new. Yeah I think I would be happy with either a S&W or Ruger, but they're so close on all the stuff that's important to me that I have to start looking at some of the finer details to choose one. BTW I stopped at a LGS yesterday that happened to have that Match Champion, and for only $900. I asked if I could see it, and he said no, not until I was ready to start paperwork. Which is why I keep saying I won't buy anything from there.