44 magnum Super blackhawk leading.

[Bazoo]

Thank you all for the replies.

Randy, I havent warmed up to it. I havent completely written it off, but its outside of the scope of what im interested in. I want to stay traditional, with lube in grooves.


If I cant get fire lapping to resolve the leading problem, I will try recutting the forcing cone and or having the throats honed out . If it comes to that... i'll be asking for some help with it as i've never cut metal with a reamer of any variety. Im sure I can handle it with some instruction though. If after those things... I still am getting unacceptable leading... then i'll probably ponder on the powder coating.

Sounds extreme as I write it, But If I wanted to away from tradition, i'd just shoot jacketed bullets, or buy plated bullets.

[CJR]

Bazoo,

Regarding your concern about re-coning the barrel's forcing cone. Brownells sells the barrel forcing cone reamers and they are very simple to use and work very well. There are, I believe, three (3) different angle forcing cone reamers. In my view, the eleven (11) degree taper is the best all-around. If the barrel manufacturers indexed on the bore/rifling axis there would no need to re-cone the barrel forcing cone. Apparently, they index on the centerless ground outside diameter which in many cases is not concentric to the bore/rifling axis. The Brownells forcing cone reamer properly indexes on the bore/rifling axis. Many times when refinishing the forcing cone,with the Brownells' forcing cone reamer, you can see the initial slight offset between the centerless ground axis and the bore/rifling axis.

Best regards,

CJR

[oger]

I don't know how hot AA-9 burns but I found that IMR 4227 is the only powder that worked for heavy loads with cast bullets in a 44mag.

[CJR]

I agree with Oger about IMR4227 in the 44 Mag. I use 25 gr. of IMR4227 behind a Keith 250 gr CB with Mag primers at about 1350FPS (chrono'd). It was an accuracy load published by Lyman years ago. I believe Lyman later reduced it slightly. However I still use 25gr. IMR4227.

Best regards,

CJR

[Bazoo]

I have an update finally.

I gave the gun a more thorough inspection the other day, and I believe that Ruger has recut the forcing cone. The forcing cone was smooth, now, it has spiral cutting marks, and appears deeper than I remember it. The tool marks are quite pronounced now. The end of the rifling was more pronounced, as I recall, than it is now. The paper I received back with the gun said that they adjusted the timing, nothing else.

I sold the accurate 434240 A/AG mould, and now have procured an RCBS 44-245-SWC. It casts small, at around .429. However, I lubed them and run them through the .430 sizer as some of them would measure .430.

I loaded a box of 44 specials to try. In magnum cases, 5.0 grains of HP-38, BAC lube, straight wheel weights. RCBS 44-245-SWC. I cant remember the weight, but it was right at either 248 or 249 grains.

I shot half a box. Well... the leading is much better. I previously would have had some serious leading in the forcing cone, and first part of the rifling, and some in the forcing cones. Now, there is some in the forcing cone, but thats to be expected with it rough as a cob. However, there was none in the barrel and none in the cylinder throats.

I wish i'd thought ahead and kept some of the Accurate 434240A bullets to compare. So I am not sure if the bullet shape has made any difference or if it is just what Ruger did.

So now im going either smooth the forcing cone or find a gunsmith to do it. I dont know what angle it is. Will Ruger have recut it at a different angle other than factory?

[Bazoo]

I loaded some 44 special +p ammo with 8 grains of unique, and it leaded the forcing cone and the first inch or so of barrel pretty bad.

Some copper scrub pad around the bore brush took it down to steel in about 5 minutes. If im not mistaken, thats Veral Smiths technique. Found the scrub pads at the local grocery store 2 for 50 cents, cedar brand.

I bought an 11 degree forcing cone hone, the rod and the muzzle protector. I tried lapping out the cone using my fire lapping kit's compound. It helped it a fair amount, but the compound also cut into the hone, so it wont smooth more than that now.

I slugged my barrel, and I still have a constriction, so I figured i'd fire lap it. I fire lapped it with 3.5 grains of HP-38, cleaned and checked it, and am going to do more of the course grit. I've run 24 bullets with the course through and have some improvement in the constriction, but its still there. Im going to do the next with a larger charge, probably 5 grains of HP-38. I think the extra pressure will make it cut better. Of the research i've done, most folks are using squib loads for fire lapping though. I've seen some reports of folksing running 50 rounds or some high number of rounds before their constriction went away.

Im Not real sure of what im doing, but im winging it, like I wing everything else. I dont see any noticeable problem though, like the rifling being worn down noticeably.

Anyways the fire lapping has blown grit back into the forcing cone and its smoothed it some more so that part is going to be fine.

[derek45]

Powder coating is so easy, and cheap to try.

Even with H110/w296 and 2400 loads, I get no leading

all you need is a cheap toaster oven, some cheap powder coat from harbor freight, or this forum ( smokes) and a tupperwear container.

[Bazoo]

I dont deny the benefits of powder coating, but I cant swallow it. I've fired a few powder coated rounds in my 30-30. It just doesnt keep with tradition enough to suit me.

[dubber123]

The reason for the light loads in fire lapping is you are basically shooting unlubed boolits. There is no point in laying down more leading in a barrel you are trying to keep from leading. I have never seen one of the experts on fire lapping recommend anything other than the lowest loads that will clear a barrel. I've fire lapped quite a few, and Rugers can take a lot of rounds. I've never hurt a barrel doing it. I also don't think your new, smaller mold is doing you any favors either.

[TCLouis]

You mentioned that you do not have a lubrisizer so I am guessing you are using pus through sizing die.

Way back when I loaded 44 Mag and sized boolits with a 310 tong tool I found a good way to lube boolit and 'trim/recover" the excess lube.

Roll the lube between your fingers making a "rope" of lube about 1/8 - 3/16 in diameter and several inches long, using one's fingers, then roll the lube into the boolit lube grooves.
Excess lube will be collected on the back of the sizing die for reuse.

I lubed and shot several thousand boolits that way.

[Bazoo]

TCLouis, I have subsequently gotten a lubesizer. That is a good idea, and I thank you for it. If I ever have to hand lube, for either trying a new lube, or because im not set up for a caliber in my sizer that will be a real handy thing to keep in mind.

[Bazoo]

Okay. I've decided to give powder coating a try. After a lot of thought, It'll get me shooting, and I can still have it piddled with later on as money and time and gumption permits. I figure I dont have to give up traditional lube for other guns to also powder coat, and it'll add another tool to my box.

I've read some of the stickies on PCing, and I've read some of the threads. Does anyone want to tutor me on it so the learning curve isnt so bad? I want to try the shake and bake variety first I think.