Marlin bullseye repair.

[JRLesan]

Have a recent production 1894 Marlin where someone previously drilled the bullseye to add a swivel stud. The base of the stud was slightly larger in diameter and when the stud was screwed down tightly, it (the stud) left a slight depression. I have removed said stud and replaced bullseye with no further damage to buttstock. However, I am looking to fill the slight space (no more than .003) which goes evenly completely around the perimeter without damaging the original (semi-gloss) finish. In other words, I am looking for a clear product that would flow into the gap and set up hard or a better idea. Wife says leave it be. Advice would be appreciated...

[thegatman]

Listen to wife.

[Bzcraig]

Listen to wife.

Yup..... However I do understand the dilemma.

[Texas by God]

Tru-Oil.

[fast ronnie]

Tru oil seems like a good option to me,too.

[pietro]

.

This is how I've done this repair:

Set the stock in padded vise jaws so that the bottom line is "up" and level both side to side & fore/aft (so the filler/epoxy won't dribble to one side while curing).

Mask the stock wood off around the larger diameter of the recess/hole, apply paste wax (aka: release agent) to both the masking tape and the sling stud (be sure not to get any wax into the cut), then flow a bit of a clear 5-min epoxy into the recess with the tip of a wooden toothpick & let it cure overnite.

Remove the masking tape the next day & clean up any excess epoxy with a single-edge razor blade.


.

[seaboltm]

Superglue

[rockshooter]

black crayola
Loren

[David2011]

5 minute epoxy won't stay clear very long. "Superglue" will make things much worse if it runs down the stock. You might have better success and less risk by wiping on multiple coats of water based polyurethane.

[cabezaverde]

Regarding replacing bullseye, how do you guys shape the piece to have it correspond with the curve in the stock?

[W.R.Buchanan]

Regarding replacing bullseye, how do you guys shape the piece to have it correspond with the curve in the stock?

With a file and sandpaper. You can also use masking tape to protect the wood from the file and sandpaper.

Randy

[2152hq]

Regarding replacing bullseye, how do you guys shape the piece to have it correspond with the curve in the stock?

Plug the hole if it needs it so there is a bottom to it for the new Bullseye to sit on. The swivel I'm guessing drilled and screwed deeply through the bottom of the original blind hole. It doesn;t need to be fancy, just something solid down in there for the new insert to sit on and be limited in depth.

Put the new Bullseye insert into the hole in the stock and carefully take it down to the contour of the wood,,but leave it high (proud)of the wood an even amt all around.
Finish the insert off cleanly after filing w/ grit paper to how you want it but keep the contour in tact..
Taking it down to a layer of tape protecting the wood is one sure way of doing it.

Then remove the bullseye and take the same amt of matr'l off the bottom end of it that represents the thickness of that tape.

When returned to the wood, it'll seat deeper by that amt removed from the end and will be flush with the wood surface and even all around if replaced in the same position. A faint pencil dot witness mark will let you keep the piece alligned for reinsertion correctly.

A dot of super glue in the hole and a carefully applied amt by way of a small drop on the end of a toothpick or pin to that .003" clearance will take care of that situation w/o any mess at all.
Leave it to set up good.

[Kevinakaq]

With a file and sandpaper. You can also use masking tape to protect the wood from the file and sandpaper.

Randy

What he said. With some careful and judicious filing/sanding I usually find my "added" bullseyes more flush to the wood than my older rifles with the original bullseye intact. No reason to get fancy...glue it in and work it down....

my two overpriced cents.

[Andy]

Many types of epoxy can be tinted, for example the one I use can be tinted with woodworking dyes. I'm not a gunsmith but a clear epoxy tends to look like a "repair" if you can see it, like if someone sees exposed glue on a woodworking project. An epoxy that matches the wood or is slightly darker than it more often looks like something internal to the wood, or a light mark from use. Tinting the epoxy dark also hides any under the surface bubbles that might happen.

[dominicfortune00]

Wonder if steaming the depression would do any good at raising it.

[Iowa Fox]

Wonder if steaming the depression would do any good at raising it.

This would be the route I would pursue as its the best bet for a invisible repair. Walnut responds very well to steaming, shop teacher taught us how to do it in High School 50 some years ago.