If ya had read the thread it's not his, he's trying to help a friend.
If ya had read the thread it's not his, he's trying to help a friend.
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.
Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823
I mentioned what I thought ya should have your friend do, but I deleted my suggestion.
Don't need hassles.
G'luck with your friends piece. Hope ya will post up what ends up to be the problem & how ya resolve it.
I am very familiar with Wylde chambers but I wasn't aware they made barrels. Do you have a link?
The barrel is stamped Wylde on the bottom.
Lots of guys, who know more about AR's than I do, have been helping him.
Watching some of them, I think they know less than I do.
I just keep it to myself. Don't want to make waves.
I talk to him about it when only people I trust are around.
I'll pass along the suggestions posted here.
I'll post what progress he's having. .
the wylde stamp denotes what chamber is cut in the barrel, not who makes it. ill just reiterate, poor accuracy isnt a headspace issue. many variables with an AR, but when you buy cheap uppers, you sometimes get what you pay for.
When parts were hard to come by I found it cheaper to buy complete uppers than individual parts for the match and service rifle uppers I build. So I have had a bunch of really cheap barrels. Even the worst held well under 3 MOA. The op is stating 12 MOA. I would love to get my hands on that one just to see what it takes to get one to shoot the poorly.
no doubt even a junker barrel should shoot much better. the barrel could be part of the problem, as could the carrier key hitting the gas tube, a very badly machined receiver face, bullet striking muzzle device, etc, etc, etc, but it being a headspace issue almost certainly not. cheap doesnt just mean a bottom of the barrel barrel (LOL). all the parts are low end, and whoever slaps it together probably isnt too concerned with making sure things are correct.
Make sure the muzzle brake is centered and straight, Look for rub marks to see if the bullet is hitting it inside as it passes thru. One of the National Match mods to the M14 / M1A was to ream the flash hider out with a #7 taper pin reamer to front dia of around .400 so bullets didn't hit. There was a gage that could be made to check the flash hiders being true also.
He called them and explained to them all that was done.
They asked him to send it back again.
he said they were very pleasant and helpful.
I forgot to get the name of the company.
Update on whats going on.
He sent it and got it back.
They changed the barrel.
He shot it and still not that great.
Noticed on the scope mount, one of the screws looked to be bottoming out.
He put a red dot on and it seemed to help.
He was using Fed 5.56. looked to me like factory reloads.
He tried some .223 and is seemed to do much better.
He going to get a new mount and try it again.
He had taken the scope/mount off and put it on another rifle. It shot great.
Mount was tight.
The rail looks the same, but didn't have a caliper to be sure.
I would have him try some other ammo (I didn't see where he had tried other ammo). I've got some federal 30/06 that won't group to save my life. It might shoot good in another rifle, I haven't tried it. It seems that might be a cheap way to rule out one thing. Good Luck.
Red dots, unless expensive parallax free models, are mostly good only for close range handgun/shotgun use. Not good out to 50 yards or more.
Been there done that not going back. I no longer use them in favour of 1x-Nx scopes with illuminated reticle: at 1x it is a red dot, at let's say 4x it's a real scope. As long as its 1x is true 1 as in 1.0, not 1.5 as some knock-offs have.
The parallax of the cheap red dots can ruin accuracy and takes a lot of discipline and training time to get used to, I have neither.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |