Title about says it all.
What do you uses for anti - seize treatment on barrel threads when you install a barrel?
Same for BP as well as Smokeless?
Title about says it all.
What do you uses for anti - seize treatment on barrel threads when you install a barrel?
Same for BP as well as Smokeless?
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John Deere labeled gray anti -seize. It works.
I think most any anti-seize would be about the same. Permatex brand sold in auto parts stores does fine. BUT, it is messy! It gets on everything. Use sparingly. And don't forget to put some on the shoulder of the barrel too, not just therads.
I use the permatex on everything. it does migrate. I start with a bit on my finger then it goes to another. then up the hand after a bit with no problem at all it is past the elbows.
when John Deere ran out I got Permatex and only diff is John Deere was stiffer.
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If you mix anti seize with 50% motor oil, it will be the best thread cutting (tapping) lubricant you ever used.
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The aluminum anti seize works good.I have also used the copper base anti size also good. It is supposed to be better at higher temp but might be hard to find. I have had my bottle for over 20 years.
A little do go a long way. I will lose the can before I use it all.
Choke tube lubes work well also.
Use a good, High Pressure grease on barrel threads. I have a tub of "Super Lube" which is a white (clear) grease with Teflon added which may last me the rest of my life. it sits right next to the barrel vise in my shop. Even chassis lube will work fine for barrels. Anti-seize tends to be very messy and gets all over anything within 12 feet of it.
Graphite suspended in alcohol. That's what we used on valve caps in the Nuclear power plants. Thin coat. Doesn't migrate.
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Bostick brand copper or nicklel. I have both. Any of the major brands will be good. VERY light application with a single stroke of a little acid brush.
I use anti-seize on the slide rails of my Glock also, came from the factory with some on them.
Be careful using graphite lubes on anything aluminum, such as an AR15 receiver. Graphite and aluminum are fine together *unless exposed to salt or saltwater* at which point galvanic corrosion could start and ruin an upper.
It's mainly a theoretical problem, rarely a real issue, but for the same money you can get a non-graphite grease that eliminates the possibility.
Use copperslip over here its lead and copper grease can stand high temperature on brake pins etc
I would think that the black power breech plug anti seize would work.
i have used it on my tc encore's blackpowder breech, on screws that go into a scope base and screws that go into open sights. never did a barrel, tho it will do the same thing.
In 1970 I got a gallon can of molly lube grease, still using it and it should be all gone about 2070. Use it on barrel threads and as Garand grease.
I use anti seize everyday on all bolts, screws, nuts and anything that moves across metal. Yes on my firearms as well. Some times I work on steam fittings, I use the copper, good to 1800 F, wont melt out of the threads.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |