Some questions about lyman 45 vs 450 sizers.

[Bazoo]

I'm looking for my first lubesizer. Up until now, i've been pan lubing, or tumble lubing. I want a method that leaves less or no, lube on the bullet nose, and that will be quicker. Also, It will be more convenient compared to using the oven for pan lubing.

I like used and vintage equipment, So i've been looking at a lyman 450. But... I can for cheaper, get a lyman 45.

Is there any reason that the 450 is preferred over the 45?

As ive never used a lubesizer, i have a noob question about gas checks. I see a separate gas check seater thing for the 450 model. Do I have to have that? Or can I just seat the check against the bench the same as I'd do for pan lubing/push through sizing. What does the lyman 45 do with regards to gas checks?

Thanks for any help that can be offered.

~Bazoo

[Mk42gunner]

I have never used a 45, so no help there.

I have used a 450, but never to seat a gas check. I have seated plenty of gas checks with the RCBS LubaMatic; same basic design as the 450, but stouter, and never had a problem.

Robert

[Gewehr-Guy]

I like the 45's better than the 450. Maybe my 450 is worn out, the ram seems sloppy and doesn't have nearly as much bearing surface as the 45 . The old 45's have the old style pressure piston that sometimes leaks, but is easy to put in the new style , I think they are still available at Lyman. I don't know about the gas check seater, i just seat with fingers and and let the die crimp it on

[Bazoo]

Thanks for that info folks.

[1_Ogre]

The only Luber I've ever had is a Lyman 45. Been using the same one for a LONG time, just rebuilt it for the 4th time, but it's still going strong. Even have the original box it came in also. Good sizer/luber. If you can get one in decent shape, it should last you a life time as long as you take care of it

[Beagle333]

I love a 45. I have 4 of em on my bench. I use them more than my Stars. I usually seat the check on the bench and then crimp it in a pass through a Lee push-thru die. The way I do it, the 45 just adds the lube. They have very little stress on them that way and should last much longer than me.

[Bent Ramrod]

If you have a good mould with the proper sized gas check shank, you can start the gas check on the boolit by pressing the assembly together with your fingers. I generally spread a bunch of checks out on the loading bench, make sure they are right side up with no gunk inside them, and then take the boolits and press them on. If the shank is a little tight, a tap with a hammer handle will start them straight, with a little practice. Then I run the assemblies through the lubrisizer, which finishes the seating, does the crimping, sizes and lubes. I have an Eagan gas check seater, and tried it for curiosity, but it doesn't seem to do any better of a job than the operation described above.

The 45 is a perfectly good machine, IF an intelligent assessment of its capabilities is kept in mind. It was designed back when moulds were cut to a couple thousandths maximum over nominal or sized diameters and lead/tin alloys were what was used in them. Lubricants were low-melting waxes and greases, that flowed easily under pressure. People who were sizing a boolit made of Linotype from an oversized mould casting 0.461" down to 0.457" started breaking parts. A reviewer of the time commented in Handloader's Digest that the then-new 450 handled big boolits and oversized boolits much better than the old 45.

So, if you have a good match between moulds and sizing dies, the 45 is a great machine, and certifiably Cool. Generally, I only take a thousandth or two, max, off the .22-.38 sizes and go for exact diameters in the .40-.45s, just ironing out the parting lines and the out-of-roundness, if any, and using it mostly for lubrication. If I want to process hardened alloys, or really squish things down, the Lachmiller (predecessor of the RCBS) is set up. Same goes for using hard or heat-softening lubes vs. Alox/beeswax or softer mixtures.

[Greg S]

I have both and prefer the 45. After experiancing off center sizing on the 450 and doing some research I see that I'm not the only owner of a misaligned 450. After looking at the two different designs and the finished product, I think the 45 is a better design although a bit weaker of a design. It all depends if they are straight or not.

On the other hand, my new RCBS Lam ll is similar in design to the 450 which is a stronger design than the 45, but the ram is concentric to the die seat and a dreas to use.

[Bazoo]

Bent Ramrod, that is useful info for me as I do have a 44 mould that is sized large. Im sizing down .005. Not exactly what I wanted, But still, what I got. Its an accurate mould, So not cheap to replace. I took my lee sizing die and polished it to make it easier to size down those fat bullets. I generally use straight wheel weights for alloy.

[gwpercle]

My 1970 (I bought it new) 450 is still up and running with no parts broken or replaced.
Lyman still has replacement parts , I recently ordered every replacement part, seal , O-ring and upgrade kit they had, just in case I need it. I don't know the availibility of 45 parts , 450 parts are still in stock.
I consider the 450 the best thing I ever bought. 1 cycle of the handle and it sized , lubed and seated a gas check . No mess , clean boolits , fast operation. I tried all the other lubeing methods , lube/sizer beats them all seven ways to Sunday. Best money I ever spent !
Gary

[Bazoo]

I didnt consider the aspect of replacement parts, that is a consideration.

[floydboy]

Bentramrod nailed it in my opinion. Both are good machines. I think the 450 will take more abuse. The way the dies are held in is slightly different but not hard to overcome on the 45. I like the look of the 45. I would go with the 450 for no other reason than parts are readily available and it will stand up better to hard use.