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Thread: How I recondition Lyman 45 Sizers

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    How I recondition Lyman 45 Sizers

    First step is find a pile of junk!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Begin disassembling it. Don't force it!

    ***********************************************

    Do some cleaning. Boiling it out works well, but keep the temperature down or you will destroy the paint!
    Just hot enough to melt out the old lube which can be as hard as rock!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ************************************************** ********************************

    I'll post some more pictures as I make some more progress!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



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    Note:
    If it doesn't work, it is junk!

    I have found many that are seized. Two still are seized, but I am not done with those two yet. A friend tried to un-seize them and he still has half of both of them. I should have them back soon.

    I have reconditioned a whole lot more that started as apparent basket cases!

    When finished, they should look like this:

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    This one went off for Tumbleweed Christmas.

    ****************************************

    I have four more to play with plus the two partial carcasses.


    Three of these four in post #1 should be easy to recondition. Boil out the old, dead lube. Clean. Lube. Reassemble. Test.
    The fourth is seized and will take more time and more labor. Time and penetrating oil are your friend!

    ***************************************

    I know where two should go. Hmmm!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    I got step ONE down Pat.
    Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
    I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I got step ONE down Pat.
    Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
    I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.
    Lyman also still has some parts for them. I have a nice box of spare parts and I will re-stock it after I finish with these!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    I remember Jon B doing quite a report on these old tools a while back. He offered a lot of advice and made them look like new.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    Cleaning the old lube out sure makes a mess!

    Cleaning the old lube out sure makes a mess!

    There are ways to reduce the mess.
    Lube floats. When you pull clean parts through the melted layer of lube they get all gooey! Yechh!
    The old lube hardens into a layer of cold lube which is easily removed from the pot when the water cools.
    Unplug to cool and add some ice cubes to speed up the cooling.


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  7. #7
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I got step ONE down Pat.
    Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
    I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.
    OK. I'm awake now!

    First step is find a pile of junk!

    Me, too!

  8. #8
    Boolit Man bbogue1's Avatar
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    There must be a lot of lube in there as well as dust and who knows what else. Does the lube go rancid and leak out?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by bbogue1 View Post
    There must be a lot of lube in there as well as dust and who knows what else. Does the lube go rancid and leak out?
    Turns hard like rock!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    save the old lube from the top of the pot.
    many times it can be slightly re-worked and re used.
    at the least you can use it to return oxides and help get your ww's cleaner when smelting.
    or if your getting a lot of smoke when cleaning the ww's while waiting for them to melt down a good chunk of the old wax and a match will help mitigate the smoke.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    For the seized ones, have you considered soaking them in diesel? I've heard it recommended for a seized motorcycle piston in the block.

  12. #12
    Boolit Man bbogue1's Avatar
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    1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well. Drip a little on, leave it alone for a few hours. Drip more on and tap it stiffly with a mallet (plastic, wood, hide, brass, not steel.) leave it a few hours and repeat the dripping and whacking. Repeat until it is loose. It may take a few days to loosen. In the 1950's a crew in the woods of rainey Western Washington actually took apart a railroad bridge using this formula. Sent a jr member up to apply and tap hard morning and evening for a month then went up and with elbow grease took the bridge apart.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master jeepyj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbogue1 View Post
    1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well. Drip a little on, leave it alone for a few hours. Drip more on and tap it stiffly with a mallet (plastic, wood, hide, brass, not steel.) leave it a few hours and repeat the dripping and whacking. Repeat until it is loose. It may take a few days to loosen. In the 1950's a crew in the woods of rainey Western Washington actually took apart a railroad bridge using this formula. Sent a jr member up to apply and tap hard morning and evening for a month then went up and with elbow grease took the bridge apart.
    I've haven used the Acetone & ATF combo but I have used the Kroil many times with excellent success. I love the 45's
    Sometimes it takes a second box of boolits to clear my head.
    Feed back thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...?261449-jeepyj

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Does anyone know the current price for the pressure nut?

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well.
    50:50 mix works better. About 53 lb torque bar pressure to break a rusted bolt loose. Kroil needs 106 lbs
    http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20131.0
    Regards
    John

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold
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    Wat works even better is 50/50 mix of acetone & Marvel's Mystery Oil....keep leftover mix tightly capped to prevent avetone evaperation.

    REDD

  17. #17
    Boolit Master



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    How I recondition Lyman 45 Sizers



    First step is find a pile of junk!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lyman_45_1.jpg 
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ID:	199843

    Begin disassembling it. Don't force it!

    ***********************************************

    Do some cleaning. Boiling it out works well, but keep the temperature down or you will destroy the paint!
    Just hot enough to melt out the old lube which can be as hard as rock!

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	199844Click image for larger version. 

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    ************************************************** ********************************


    Started with Four, but now down to Three!

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    Now a new rule I just learned the hard way!

    Use the right tool and don't drop it!

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    After cleaning this one up, I found the lube reservoir tube didn't allow for smooth movement of the top assembly. I tried the wrong tool and dropped it. The cast iron shattered. Now there are only three!

    Once the old lube is boiled out at the lowest temperature which will melt it, clean the bit and piece parts as you reassemble them. I like to scrub them with an oiled cloth, cleaning patch, or paper towel For really caked on crud, oiled steel wool or oiled nylon scrubber pads work well!

    These three survivors will soon be ready for new homes!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
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    Well, if the only area broken (as shown) on this lower cast iron piece is the bottom angled area for the Depth adjustment screw, then this still could be used a push-through "lubeless" Sizer.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Well, if the only area broken (as shown) on this lower cast iron piece is the bottom angled area for the Depth adjustment screw, then this still could be used a push-through "lubeless" Sizer.
    Hmmm...

    I wonder who needs one of those?

    When the threaded hole for the set screw which holds the die in place breaks, what can it be used for?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrassMagnet View Post
    Hmmm...

    I wonder who needs one of those?

    When the threaded hole for the set screw which holds the die in place breaks, what can it be used for?
    If you are talking the same broken press, a die setscrew or die setscrew hole won't be needed for sizing "lubeless" bullets, as there will only be downward pressure.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check