Smith 625 question

[Dpmsman]

I've decided to try competing with my 625 Smith. Being the original double action trigger pull was fairly heavy I decided to order a wolf spring kit. I installed the reduce powered mainspring along with the 13 pound trigger rebound spring. I'm sure you guys know where this is going. I tried some of my reloads with CCI large pistol primers and they won't fire, primers are too hard. Then I tried some federal match primers and still had one that needed a restrike. I really enjoy the trigger pull with the Wolf spring kit installed and would like to try and make it reliable. So my question is how do I make this revolver reliable without putting the original mainspring back in? Would a bobbed hammer help or hurt?

Thanks Jon

[Outpost75]

Bobbed hammer will further reduce striker indent and make problem worse.

Try the original mainspring with the 13-lb. rebound spring.

Are you cleaning and uniforming primer pockets? Seating primer in a dirty pocket cushions the firing pin blow if marginal.

How are you seating primers? With a hand tool or in progressive machine?

If primer is not fully seated to bottom of pocket to position the anvil legs firing pin blow is cushioned as it tries to finish seating of primer.

Try Remington 2-1/2 or Federal 150 primers.

[30calflash]

All above good. CCI, at one time, had the hardest to fire primers.

After a trigger job my S&W smith would run a cylinder full of CCI primed cases thru to make sure they all went bang.

[Dpmsman]

Bobbed hammer will further reduce striker indent and make problem worse.

That was kinda what I thought. I was reading another thread here and someone mentioned bobbing the hammer might speed it up.

Try the original mainspring with the 13-lb. rebound spring.

I reinstalled the original mainspring and can't tell much difference in the trigger pull with the 13-pound rebound spring from being full Factory.

Are you cleaning and uniforming primer pockets? Seating primer in a dirty pocket cushions the firing pin blow if marginal.

This I will admit I have not tried yet, I'll have to see if this works. Not want to sound like I'm lazy but I can't picture myself cleaning all the primer Pockets after every firing. But I will give it a try none the less if it works I might have to start.

How are you seating primers? With a hand tool or in progressive machine?

I seat the primers with the Press. I use a Lee classic turret press so the primers should be fully seated.

If primer is not fully seated to bottom of pocket to position the anvil legs firing pin blow is cushioned as it tries to finish seating of primer.

Try Remington 2-1/2 or Federal 150 primers.

I did try the Remington two and a half but they were about like cci's in hardness.The firing pin barely dimple them.

[Dpmsman]

Is there a way to get more tension on the Wolf spring. Maybe a longer tension screw?

[9.3X62AL]

If the OEM hammer spring enabled reliable ignition of CCI primers, then I think you have your answer via Oupost's text. NONE of my S&W revolvers have aftermarket springs installed. Period.

[Char-Gar]

The Smith and Wesson DA sixguns in 45 ACP have a longer hammer throw that others N frames Smiths. Couple this is the clips which absorb some of the blow and you can see what your problem is. These revolvers need a pretty robust spring to overcome the design difference and set off the primers. I take it you have a spring that is designed for N frame of any caliber.

You can try 45 Auto Rim cases and that would probably be a help, but like others I am not a fan of after market springs in the Smith and Wesson DA revolvers. None of mine have them.

[Dpmsman]

If the OEM hammer spring enabled reliable ignition of CCI primers, then I think you have your answer via Oupost's text. NONE of my S&W revolvers have aftermarket springs installed. Period.

You might be right. The revolver is a 625 JM. A newer Smith. I have a few older Smith's and the triggers on most of the new ones don't come close. I have a 624 with an amazing factory trigger. I'm just trying to give myself a little help in competition.

[9.3X62AL]

You might be right. The revolver is a 625 JM. A newer Smith. I have a few older Smith's and the triggers on most of the new ones don't come close. I have a 624 with an amazing factory trigger. I'm just trying to give myself a little help in competition.

I get that. Gun game arms are a different calculus than that used in self-defense venues. "Failure to ignite" is a PITA in any application, though.

[Dpmsman]

The Smith and Wesson DA sixguns in 45 ACP have a longer hammer throw that others N frames Smiths. Couple this is the clips which absorb some of the blow and you can see what your problem is. These revolvers need a pretty robust spring to overcome the design difference and set off the primers. I take it you have a spring that is designed for N frame of any caliber.

You can try 45 Auto Rim cases and that would probably be a help, but like others I am not a fan of after market springs in the Smith and Wesson DA revolvers. None of mine have them.

I bought the Wolf type 2 reduced power mainspring shooters pack. This kit includes a 13lb, 14lb and 15lb trigger rebound Springs. It was not frame or caliber specific.

[Outpost75]

16 lbs. is standard for a postwar N-frame. 18 lbs. was standard for the US M1917.

[JSH]

Leave it as is the way you set it up.
Go to cylinder and slide and get one of there longer firing pins, problem solved.
I will get a misfire once in a great while on CCI primers.
As mentioned if you clean primer pockets and fully seat by hand all is well. I am not playing any race games, so I still use my progressive and do it all on there.
Jeff

[Loudenboomer]

X2 on Federal Primers

[dubber123]

The newer MIM parts are a bit lighter in my experience, and will produce more misfires compared to their older forged counterparts. I competed with a MIM gun for years, and just used a full power mainspring with a reduced power rebound for reliability. If you need "just a little more umph", slip a fired primer cup over the end of the strain screw that presses against the mainspring in the grip, this will increase spring rate a bit.

[Dpmsman]

The newer MIM parts are a bit lighter in my experience, and will produce more misfires compared to their older forged counterparts. I competed with a MIM gun for years, and just used a full power mainspring with a reduced power rebound for reliability. If you need "just a little more umph", slip a fired primer cup over the end of the strain screw that presses against the mainspring in the grip, this will increase spring rate a bit.

I'll give that a try. I also ordered a longer firing pin from cylinder and slide. Hopefully with these two mods it'll be 100 percent reliable.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Polish rebound slide, maybe lighter rebound spring - I don't care much for reduced mainsprings on any firearm. I have a(an?) 686 - extremely smooth and light, also 1917 and 1937 .45's, all smooth. There are usually many other places to smooth and lighten the trigger feel depending on the weapon. Lots of dry firing, action cycling helps the gun and the shooter - snap caps or practice dummies should be used. If it don't go bang it's not a firearm.

[imashooter2]

Federal primers are a must for lightened competition revolvers.

The Wolff "Power Rib" springs have a formed recess on them. The tip of the strain screw often seats into this recess causing misfires even with Federal primers. Place a fired small pistol primer cup over the tip of the strain screw and your problem will go away. Going much under 7.5 pounds DA pull requires a lot of work to get reliability.

Take the extended firing pin out of your gun. They aren't needed and they break easily. If you choose to keep it in, carry the factory pin in your range bag. It will save the match for you when the C&S pin fails.

[lotech]

I use Auto-Rim brass in two 625s and the light strikes have been eliminated. I use CCI large pistol primers exclusively.

[Dpmsman]

[QUOTE=imashooter2;3998269]Federal primers are a must for lightened competition revolvers.

The Wolff "Power Rib" springs have a formed recess on them. The tip of the strain screw often seats into this recess causing misfires even with Federal primers. Place a fired small pistol primer cup over the tip of the strain screw and your problem will go away. Going much under 7.5 pounds DA pull requires a lot of work to get reliability.

Take the extended firing pin out of your gun. They aren't needed and they break easily. If you choose to keep it in, carry the factory pin in your range bag. It will save the match for you when the C&S pin fails.

Thanks for the tip on the extended firing pin. If the spent primer trick doesn't work with my existing firing pin I'll give the extended firing pin a try.

[Dpmsman]

I use Auto-Rim brass in two 625s and the light strikes have been eliminated. I use CCI large pistol primers exclusively.

Auto Rim brass would probably work great but it negates a speedy reload.