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Thread: What's your favorite powder trickler?

  1. #21
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    Pressman's Avatar
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    My first was RCBS, still have it, but to light. Then I found the Herter's and never looked back. Heavy and fast. Lately I have been experimenting with one of the homemade tricklers I have. Any decent late operator can make one in an hour or so, using brass stock. It works mostly OK, but the Herter's is still superior in my not so humble opinion.

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  2. #22
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I believe I have two of the large heavy cast iron Herters Tricklers like I posted here.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post3986037
    But I've never used them...they look like the cat's meow, with the internal coarse spring used to auger the powder.

    The one I use is pictured below. A homemade brass tube with a machined Xacto knife handle through the brass tube, all mounted solidly on a Oak board with the RF Wells beam scale...I couldn't think of a better setup, so it's all I've used for the last 20 years. It's designed to send out about a tenth of a grain of 'stick' powder per revolution. This setup came with a purchase...the first bunch of reloading equipment (mostly Herters, but some RF Wells) back in the 1990s from a local old fellow who was selling out all his shooting and reloading stuff due to health reasons.



  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    I have had a Frankfort Arsenal battery powered trickler for about 15 years that just keeps on going.

  4. #24
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    For a number of years, I used either the borrowed kitchen spoon or the dipper method for trickling powder. Then in 1985 I purchased this Redding No.5 from People's Sporting Goods in Cheyenne, WY, for $12.95. If I only have a few charges to deal with, I still fall back on the spoon or dipper; more than 10, and out comes the No.5.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Redding. Nice and heavy, very well made.

  6. #26
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    Homemade job with lead shot mixed with epoxy at the bottom.
    Fingers work well too. Fingers are faster.

    Shiloh
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    I don't own one & probably never will, but Goodsteel posted pictures of a brass one he made and I've lusted after that one ever since..........

    Are you listening Tim?

    Last edited by PbHurler; 03-25-2017 at 06:18 PM.
    Bob

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy bns454's Avatar
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    The heavy Redding dont tip over.I use the finger method alot also.
    One who does nothing makes no mistakes.

  9. #29
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    The one made by Frankford Arsenal - works well, has a heavy base and doesn't tip over - works well with the powders I use. I like it so well I bought a second one for my reloading set up in AZ where we spend the winter.

  10. #30
    Sticking with Redding here.
    The insulated state in which nature has placed the American continent should so far avail it that no spark of war kindled in the other quarters of the globe should be wafted across the wide oceans which separate us from them." -- Thomas Jefferson

  11. #31
    Boolit Man Morgan61's Avatar
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    I like my frankford arsenal trickler


  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    RCBS since early 70's, weighted bottom. Take my time and dont load hot ones.
    10-x

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  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Me too, RCBS since early 70's.

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub
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    bit the bullet a few years back and got an RCBS Charge Master, set up all my loads and it drops each one, trickling to the last tenth of a grain.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    I just made a trickler from hardware store off the shelf parts and Hobby store tubing. 2 3/4 x1" reducers ( wanted 3/4" X 1 1/2" but were out of them) a short piece of 3/4" copper tubing. I shortened the 3/4" end to where only 1/4" of the tube dia was left. A piece of 3/4" tubing cut 1/2" long holds and alighns the reducers. A piece of 1/4" ID hobby store tubing is set into the joint as a bearing tube. This assembly on mine is soldered together it can be glued. A clay funnel was formed to make the top side and JB weld poured in to form it. with a 1/4" or so base. I then filled the base with lead after the JBs had cured well. This makes a heavy trickler.A piece of 1/4" x .014 wall tubing is fit to the bearing tube to turn free with no play. AI drilled a 1/4" hole in the bearing tube half thru and a 3/16 thru the inner tube. A plug was fit to close off the back end to the edge of the 3/16" hole. Now here is what I did different from the purchased ones. In the spring assortment I found a long compression spring that was slightly bigger than the ID of the inner tube. I cut the coiled ends off of it and stretched it a little longer to "open" the coils more. This was twisted into the tube to the plug and cut of flush with end of tube. This made a better auger than the finer threads and moves a much finer stream of powder much more consistently.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Pour it full of stick powder.
    Make sure it is level with the scale zeroed.
    Set your desired charge. Double check with check weights.

    Push the round black button and it will trickle the entire load into the pan until it is balanced and then it shuts off.


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  17. #37
    Boolit Master ACrowe25's Avatar
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    I love my RCBS automatic trickler. Forget the name of it. The scientist in me loves the precision that comes from it and being able to visually (via balance) confirm each charge.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master wrench man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    The red cap...I have no idea where that was originally used, I found it in a parking lot...
    Looks like a cap off of a five gallon bucket to me, we get out synthetic gear oil in them and have to unscrew that cap to pour out the oil.

    As for my trickler, I have the RCBS, suits me fine, don't know why guys think they don't weigh enough??
    ASE master certified engine machinist
    Brake & Alignment specialist, ricer to class 8

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Omega. Nothing else will drop one kernel of powder each tap.
    I have been accused of being a bit too nitpicky with my reloading process at times.
    I use a K&M arbor press with a dial indicator to check for tight or loose cases (necksizing) with my Wilson dies, and to check seating pressure.

    Even retired I hate to spend the $$$ for gas and time to try and figure out fliers.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench man View Post
    Looks like a cap off of a five gallon bucket to me, we get out synthetic gear oil in them and have to unscrew that cap to pour out the oil.

    As for my trickler, I have the RCBS, suits me fine, don't know why guys think they don't weigh enough??
    When your hands age they tend to loose some of their finesse...heavy ticklers help to fight back against our loss of dexterity.

    Therefore...the heavier the better!
    "A handshake or your word is all it takes…don't screw that up."…charlie

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check