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Thread: Question on pan lubing vs 45LLA/45/10

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Mar 2017
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    Question on pan lubing vs 45LLA/45/10

    Hi to all you pan lubers out there, it looks like you only fill the pan to where the bullet seats up until the brass or to just fill in the bullet groove. How far do you go? Why are you not putting something on the tip of the bullet to prevent the lead from oxidizing or tarnishing over time? I am new to casting boolits but have experience in casting fishing sinkers and jigs. If you do not cover the lead it oxidizes over time, sometimes getting darker loosing that silver shine or other times forming a white crud on it. I would think you would want to tumble tube to cover the whole bullet if you want to store them over time. Why not just tumble lube with 45 LLA/45 JPW/10 MS if people say it works? Did anyone not have luck with 45/45/10?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Lubes for pan lubing or in a lube sizer over the front band collect dirt and other crud. Any of these lubes outside the case suffer this drawback. The coating of these lubes is also thicker and on firearms with limited or no camming may make chambering harder to do. The first round is the one that might need it after that the barrel is coated with a thin layer of lube from each shot again.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I've not had any long stored bullets develop a white crud. I have had some, notably WW turn dull but did not seem to affect performance although it is unsightly. I lube prior to use and don't long term store lubed bullets and loaded ammo doesn't stay loaded very long around here.

  4. #4
    Banned

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    the white is lead oxide it generally forms from being exposed to water.

    I do a lot of term storage of normal lubed boolits, 5 gallon buckets do a great job.
    if I were to put some stuff up for true long term storage I would just do a coat of Hi-Tek and then lube before loading.
    but if I really,really need boolits 25 years from now, someone will have to go get them for me.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    thanks for the input. I figured the white was due to water. I live near the bay. I guess water dropping the bullets could cause an issue. Country Gent had a good point about dirt sticking with the tumble method. Maybe Ill try to the powder paint method. Thanks

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    BrassMagnet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mleon View Post
    Hi to all you pan lubers out there, it looks like you only fill the pan to where the bullet seats up until the brass or to just fill in the bullet groove. How far do you go? Why are you not putting something on the tip of the bullet to prevent the lead from oxidizing or tarnishing over time? I am new to casting boolits but have experience in casting fishing sinkers and jigs. If you do not cover the lead it oxidizes over time, sometimes getting darker loosing that silver shine or other times forming a white crud on it. I would think you would want to tumble tube to cover the whole bullet if you want to store them over time. Why not just tumble lube with 45 LLA/45 JPW/10 MS if people say it works? Did anyone not have luck with 45/45/10?
    What caliber or calibers are you wanting to size?

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    40 cal and 380

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    One thing I have found out over the years is do not store your lead bullets in an oak box. I made up an oak box to store bullets in and found after a year or so, lead oxide had formed...other bullets cast of same alloy and at same time stored in cardboard box were fine.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master



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    I use Magma Blue lube for pistol boolits. I store them inside plastic bags inside coffee cans or #10 cans. Magma Blue is a hard wax and must be heated to apply. It doesn't collect dirt, but accumulated dust could become a problem, so the can is always covered. I have boolits that have been lubed and canned for many years. They are still bright and shiney.

    I use soft lubes for rifle boolits such as NRA Formula and Tac1. Since those are sticky, I box them in neat ranks, or stack them on cookie trays in neat ranks and keep them covered with towels until loaded.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    * Lube up to the driving band
    * Wipe the bullet nose with mineral oil if you are concerned about lube & oxidation
    And buy the way, your supposed to shoot the bullets you cast & lube. But if your lubing for long term inventory, put a couple of desiccants in the plastic container to reduce moisture. I use desiccants in the containers for all my cleaned brass and they stay shiny too
    Regards
    John

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    * Lube up to the driving band
    * Wipe the bullet nose with mineral oil if you are concerned about lube & oxidation
    And buy the way, your supposed to shoot the bullets you cast & lube. But if your lubing for long term inventory, put a couple of desiccants in the plastic container to reduce moisture. I use desiccants in the containers for all my cleaned brass and they stay shiny too
    Why be in a hurry?
    Boolits store for many years.
    Ammo stores for many years.
    Store ammo in GI ammo cans!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    For some high-pressure loads, I like to do both. I will tumble, size, pan-lube, tumble again.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check