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Thread: using Lyman 450

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Question using Lyman 450

    I am just getting into details of casting and have this question. I have done some 235 grain 45LC bullets with flat base. I just did some 45LC 300 grain w/gas checks. I have the Lyman 450 luber/sizer.. I have been using the heated hard stick lube, but then after that I also have been coating with liquid Alox. Is this necessary or unnecessary with the 235 or the 300 grain bullets w/ gas checks? (using Alox and hard stick both?)

  2. #2
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    If a decently good quality of stick lube is used in the 450 lube/size action then the alox isn`t needed.Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    It also depends on how well those CB's fit your gun, how fast you want to push them, and how hard your alloy is. Liquid Alox works for me when velocity is <1,100fps with plain base CB's in my Ruger SBH, for ex., but your results may be different. As Hc416t said, a good quality stick lube is likely a good choice. Liquid Alox is what I use when I'm lubing large quantities of CB's which aren't going to be driven more than 1,100fps and often slower.
    Last edited by Maven; 03-23-2017 at 03:49 PM. Reason: additional information

  4. #4
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    only way to find out is to not use it.
    it doesn't hurt anything to add the extra coating lube over the wax lube.
    and quite often a tumble lube will actually help accuracy.

    in many of my long nosed rifle boolits I very lightly lube the nose after loading the round.
    it helps accuracy

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It's like wearing a belt and suspenders.
    I usually do one or the other but not both. Doing both wont hurt anything , it just might be unnecessary . I get by with the 450 and soft lube. ( Lithium - Beeswax) I've recovered way to many handgun boolits with hard lube still in the grooves. I'm of the mind that soft lube's work better in low pressure , short barrel, handgun loads and the hard lubes in rifle with longer barrel , higher velocity/pressure loads. I can't prove this , just my personal thoughts.
    Try the hard lube and see what it does. You might not have to do the additional tumble lube . I'm keeping my soft lube .
    Gary
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    cast45LC,
    Welcome to the forum.

    "Is this necessary or unnecessary with the 235 or the 300 grain bullets w/ gas checks? (using Alox and hard stick both?)"


    IMHO, if the loads will be standard 'book' loads (and not Ruger only loads), it is absolutely NOT necessary. You should be good with either one, all by itself. Give it a try.
    Good Luck,
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #7
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    It`s kinda hard to go wrong if you are using a good stick lube like Carnuba Red from Lars or about any other lubes he sells.Robert

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    My 45LC is happy with 5R5 s lube (Look it up) here ,I make it then heat it up in old fashioned coffee pot and pour in my Lyman 450 /also lube my 30-30 and 35 loads with it /no lead and easy to make shoots up to 1900 ft chronoed /Ed

  9. #9
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    I use Larsen's BAC for everything.

    Shiloh
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    what do you use in your 35's for 1900+fps, I am planning on getting a 35 whelen this summer
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    It's like wearing a belt and suspenders.
    I usually do one or the other but not both. Doing both wont hurt anything , it just might be unnecessary . I get by with the 450 and soft lube. ( Lithium - Beeswax) I've recovered way to many handgun boolits with hard lube still in the grooves. I'm of the mind that soft lube's work better in low pressure , short barrel, handgun loads and the hard lubes in rifle with longer barrel , higher velocity/pressure loads. I can't prove this , just my personal thoughts.
    Try the hard lube and see what it does. You might not have to do the additional tumble lube . I'm keeping my soft lube .
    Gary
    I would like to suggest you are viewing lube retention from the wrong perspective. A balanced boolit with a balanced application of lube is still a balanced boolit. An unbalanced boolit is likely to be inaccurate. A balanced boolit with lube on only part of it is likely to be unbalanced and therefore also be inaccurate.
    So what you want with lube is good lubrication for the intended velocity and consistency in either shedding the lube at the same point in flight or consistently retaining the lube until impact. Another way to put it would be to always throw all of the lube off of the boolit as soon as it exits the muzzle or to always keep all of the lube in place until impact. Either can be good for accuracy while retaining only some lube or losing lube at different points along the way to the target can degrade or destroy accuracy.
    The same applies to gas checks. Either always shed them at the same point in flight or always retain them until impact. Either can be accurate.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check