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Thread: Old C&L lead melter

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Old C&L lead melter

    Does anyone know if this would be good to melt wheelweights, etc?

    And is this one worth $50?


  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    for the money, I'd get a turkey burner and skip that one.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


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    I think it would be excellent to melt WW. The value would depend upon its condition and functionality. If it works right I think $50 would be reasonable. The thing against it would be it's age.

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by rancher1913 View Post
    for the money, I'd get a turkey burner and skip that one.
    And factor in a dutch oven. I figure it would cost at least twice what this is.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Those old plumbers pots are great for smelting and casting both. The pot on it appears to be a steel ladle pot that will hold close to 100lbs of alloy. This pot should be about ideal and being formed steel very solid and safe. The other pot appears to be cast iron/steel maybe a forged pot even. It should also work well. By the looks of the tank it appears to run on white gas. White gas can get expensive if your doing a lot of smelting or casting. I would also make sure it is all working if possible before buying it, with the age of these units parts can be very hard to find. There will be a learning curve with it but that's with any fired pot. The 2 pots are worth close to the $50.00 if the burner works good then Id go for it. A stand could be built and propane burner at a later date if needed. Use this with really good ventilation, not only for lead fumes but also carbon monoxide from the burner.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    Im pretty familiar with white gas...


  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    the last turkey burner I got was 5 bucks at a yard sale and my pot is an old dutch oven with lid from an estate sale that I got for 20 bucks. if you like white gas then like others have said it may work depending on the condition of the unit, the propane units flat out work and you can get more production.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ikarus1 View Post
    Im pretty familiar with white gas...

    Ive done that exact very thing with the same Lodge ladle on one of my Coleman stoves! I find that kinda funny!

    I actually collect and restore vintage Coleman lanterns, stoves, heaters, etc, along with other brands.

    Those old plumbers furnaces with really put out some heat but there are some things to be aware of. Firstly is to make sure the fount (tank) isnt rusted inside or outside for that matter. It is a pressure vessel and you really don't want a pressurized vessel full of extremely flammable fuel on an appliance with a large flame to rupture in use. Most of these old furnaces need going through to get them working if they pass rust inspection. I would say mandatory. Basically disassembly snd cleaning and seal replacement. One area of concern on these is the pump. Most lack a positive shut off like Coleman's have where you turn the pump knob clockwise after pumping to close the needle valve. One like the above probably has the check valve only with a rubber pip on the seat. These solely rely on that check valve to hold and not spray fuel or fill the pump well with fuel. Theis kind must be used with care & caution and never inside a structure. If the check valve had a slow leak and filled the pump well with fuel and you need to add a little pressure while running and you pull the pump handle out not knowing and it sprays fuel xll over you! These can be used but just like old plumbers torches, extreme caution must be used. I would recommend against it unless you are quite familiar with gas burning appliances.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all!
    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    This innocent till proven guilty is more like a fantasy as time goes on. I don't know about you folks, but I for 1 am getting mighty tired of having to prove I'm innocent just because of what someone else thinks....

  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mytmousemalibu View Post
    I actually collect and restore vintage Coleman lanterns, stoves, heaters, etc, along with other brands.

    I would recommend against it unless you are quite familiar with gas burning appliances.
    Same here. I have restored a Coleman 220F and 220K lantern from the 60s and 70s, and I have a couple of kero lanterns as well, plus this stove.

    I guess my main question was does this thing put off enough BTUs to really melt a large amount of wheelweights, because I know the coleman stove can do it on full high heat. But I'm sure if it worked for plumbers in the 40s, 50s, and 60s then it would work well enough for me.

    I made the guy an offer of $40, we will see. If he doesn't accept it, I'm going to buy the 85K BTU jet boilers cooker from Academy sports. I have a large pot already

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    I don't think that furnace would have any problems melting 50lbs or more. Those plumbing furnaces put out a serious flame, like a very serious and scaled up roarer burner like a Primus/Optimus/Svea/Coleman 530 burner. Quite a bit more ferocious than your Coleman stove!
    Last edited by Mytmousemalibu; 03-21-2017 at 08:26 PM.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all!
    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    This innocent till proven guilty is more like a fantasy as time goes on. I don't know about you folks, but I for 1 am getting mighty tired of having to prove I'm innocent just because of what someone else thinks....

  11. #11
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mytmousemalibu View Post
    I don't think that furnace would have any problems melting 50lbs or more. Those plumbing furnaces put out a serious flame, like a very serious and scaled up roarer burner like a Primus/Oprimus/Svea/Coleman 530 burner. Quite a bit more ferocious than your Coleman stove!
    OK for that reason alone..........must...have

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    The burn hazard to plumbers is part of the reason those furnace/pots were obsoleted. They are now old and even less safe, because of rust and age.
    Granted there are some in use today in our hobby, but there are safer ways to accomplish the same thing.
    Let's face it, what we're doing isn't the safest adventure. It involves molten metal and fire close to pressurized fuel.
    The gas tank on those old plumbers pots often have pin holes rusted through or almost through so that they're an accident waiting to happen. The base offers too small a footprint to really be stable, and the pot of lead is at the top making the whole thing top heavy. More than one yard was covered in lead by a simple accident even if no-one was hurt. Today there are lots of gas burners available for not too big a price. They are close to the ground and with a large base of fairly heavy metal. The burners all have about 5' of hose and the tank has a shut-off valve built in.
    Cast iron pots are for sale in both used and new condition without spending a fortune.
    Buying a nonworking plumbers pot could cost you a fortune and still have all the added inherent dangers.
    Why take a chance and likely spend almost as much or more money.
    I have one of those and all the accouterments to pour and finish the lead seals in cast iron pipe, but in the box is where it will always be unless donated to a museum as an antique.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    if you do go out and buy a new turkey burner, make sure it is not the safety kind that has a timer or non adjustable pressure regulator, those dang things are worthless.

  14. #14
    Boolit Man
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    Just made a deal FTF for $40. Threw in some WW lead. If it doesnt work I will throw it on fleabay

  15. #15
    Boolit Man
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    She works, and is in good shape. Ethanol free gasoline and we are literally cooking with gas


  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    Good Deal! That thing is really cool. I know a few guys that have used those but I don't know very much about them.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Just be careful and safe! That old Clayton & Lambert is in good shape!
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all!
    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    This innocent till proven guilty is more like a fantasy as time goes on. I don't know about you folks, but I for 1 am getting mighty tired of having to prove I'm innocent just because of what someone else thinks....

  18. #18
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mytmousemalibu View Post
    Just be careful and safe! That old Clayton & Lambert is in good shape!
    Yeah man. I cant get it to throw the super blue flame i know its capable of....think i am gonna disassemble it clean everything and give it a paint job.

    I tried turning the jet manifold but I really think my pump leather is worn out and it lacks pressure

    PS i have original manual scans for the 22-A1 if anyone needs em. But honestly if youve ever used an old Coleman kerosene lantern its the same.

    Now I need an older C&L.blowtorch!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ikarus1 View Post
    Yeah man. I cant get it to throw the super blue flame i know its capable of....think i am gonna disassemble it clean everything and give it a paint job.

    I tried turning the jet manifold but I really think my pump leather is worn out and it lacks pressure

    PS i have original manual scans for the 22-A1 if anyone needs em. But honestly if youve ever used an old Coleman kerosene lantern its the same.

    Now I need an older C&L.blowtorch!
    Probably a good idea to give it a servicing regardless. I would definitely give the pump check valve a going through and replace the pip that seals the valve seat. I have an old Turner blowtorch that i use regularly but in modified form. It was a model that the pump and fuel cap were an integrated unit and the check valve wasn't serviceable. Tl make it safe to use, i gutted the pump threaded the cap for a brass screw-in Schrader valve stem. I removed the valve core and silver brazed the stem in to seal it permanently and replaced the stem. Now it is easily pressurized with a bicycle pump or low psi air source and onced filled i use a metal valve stem cap to ensure a safe sealed system. You could employ a similar technique. Just be careful! You might be able to make the old pump leather cup usable by letting it soak in neetsfoot oil for a while. Those are often an oddball size of pump leather and difficult to source a new one.

    I have a special place in my heart for Kerosene burning appliances and o treasure my kero Coleman's. I especially love my little 249 Scout and my 237 Major in mint condition. Both with a Peerless or original Silk-lite mantle will scorch your eyes! Kerosene burners are by far my favorite!
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all!
    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    This innocent till proven guilty is more like a fantasy as time goes on. I don't know about you folks, but I for 1 am getting mighty tired of having to prove I'm innocent just because of what someone else thinks....

  20. #20
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mytmousemalibu View Post
    Probably a good idea to give it a servicing regardless. I would definitely give the pump check valve a going through and replace the pip that seals the valve seat. I have an old Turner blowtorch that i use regularly but in modified form. It was a model that the pump and fuel cap were an integrated unit and the check valve wasn't serviceable. Tl make it safe to use, i gutted the pump threaded the cap for a brass screw-in Schrader valve stem. I removed the valve core and silver brazed the stem in to seal it permanently and replaced the stem. Now it is easily pressurized with a bicycle pump or low psi air source and onced filled i use a metal valve stem cap to ensure a safe sealed system. You could employ a similar technique. Just be careful! You might be able to make the old pump leather cup usable by letting it soak in neetsfoot oil for a while. Those are often an oddball size of pump leather and difficult to source a new one.

    I have a special place in my heart for Kerosene burning appliances and o treasure my kero Coleman's. I especially love my little 249 Scout and my 237 Major in mint condition. Both with a Peerless or original Silk-lite mantle will scorch your eyes! Kerosene burners are by far my favorite!
    Yeah i took the pump assembly apart, and im going to need a new cup seal. Can you take a pic of your schrader valve setup, specifically what kind of cap you used? It uses fine threads.

    I need a 15/16ths leather seal cup but I think a ford rubber wheel cylinder seal will work
    Last edited by ikarus1; 03-24-2017 at 02:05 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check