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Thread: Self made lube/sizing die

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Question Self made lube/sizing die

    I have a rolling block I re-barreled to 32-40. The barrel on the 32-40 is from a new old stock 8mm German made machine gun barrel with .323" bore. I needed a die to lube and seat gas checks for my Lyman 323-470 mold. When I cast boolits (unknown salvaged alloy) with this mold they drop out at from .325 to .326". I copied some early Lyman dies (the ones with 4 thru-holes) and made a die with an inside diameter .324". The die looks good, but when I try to seat gas checks with it the pressure required on the handle makes me fearful the Lyman 45's handle will fail. I really have to lean on it! When I do, the boolit exits with obvious mooshed out grease grooves on one side. So I have a question. Do I need to increase the chamfer on the top of the die from what is (about 30 degrees to a depth of maybe .050") to something steeper and deeper? When I size the same boolits with no gas checks, they come out fine (.324") with no mooshed grease grooves. I plan to shoot black powder or low pressure smokeless loads to something in the neighborhood of 1200 to 1500 fps. I could use the boolit without a gas check but wonder if I want to use the boolit sizer for other 8mm loads what do I need to do to make it work?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    Just a couple thoughts; yep perhaps increasing the "lead" into the die would help in keeping the bullet straight, and secondly, if you have the equipment and where-with-all to make a Lyman type die, why not try a straight through (Lee style) sizing die? I would think a single stage press is stronger than a lubersizer and able to withstand "leaning on the handle". There seems to be a problem other than sizing, as .002" reduction is really very little and shouldn't give any distorted lube grooves...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Youi can try a more gradual lead into the die it should help and mal allow for better seating of the gas check. Another is to polish the lead and junction between lead and die bright and smooth. a light radious breaking the sharp edge between them helps a lot also.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    Have you tried annealing the gas checks? It will make a difference.

    Robert

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    A longer lead in will help. If it is too short, you are pushing lead rather than swaging. I usually have at least a 1/4" lead in and polish with a rubber polishing wheel till it is mirror smooth. It makes a world of difference.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks to all for the ideas! I will try them and let you know. Also, I might try the push through method as used by Lee if I am unable to make this work.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    blikseme300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Youi can try a more gradual lead into the die it should help and mal allow for better seating of the gas check. Another is to polish the lead and junction between lead and die bright and smooth. a light radious breaking the sharp edge between them helps a lot also.
    This is the best advice after increasing the lead into the die. All my self-made Star dies and tuned Lee ones are treated to this. Bad dies need more force to size and IMHO distortion of the CB does not help accuracy at all.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check