Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingWisconsin Trigger
Lee PrecisionRotoMetals2Graf & SonsStainLess Steel Media

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Sticky Lyman molds...

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



    TexasGrunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kaufman, Texas!
    Posts
    567

    Sticky Lyman molds...

    Every multi cavity Lyman mold I own, with the exception of my single four cavity has one or more sticky cavities.

    What's the best way to solve these sticky cavities? Lapping?
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    shoot-n-lead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,368
    I use a popsicle stick and scrub my mold cavities if I have one that wants to stick...has worked every time that I have used it. Also, Liquid Wrench dry lube works well.
    “The everyday man who holsters a handgun for come-what-may eventualities cannot improve on a .44 Special revolver.” Skeeter Skelton

    "Well, if he told his wife the gun only cost $139.00...that's not really a lie--a necessary untruth maybe, but not a lie."

    In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Ithaca Gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Between two mountains
    Posts
    1,762
    Kroil, I swab a light coat in and on with a Q-Tip.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,337
    TXG, This isn't the only solution, but it has worked for me: Take a new copper (Never stainless steel!) bore brush with of ~ the same caliber as the mold, chuck it in an electric drill, then spin it at med. speed for ~30 sec. in each direction in the troublesome cavity. Clean the cavities, smoke the mold if you prefer, and begin casting. Alternatively, a worn bore brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool also works, but you'll need to degrease the mold cavities.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master



    TexasGrunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Kaufman, Texas!
    Posts
    567
    Quote Originally Posted by Maven View Post
    TXG, This isn't the only solution, but it has worked for me: Take a new copper (Never stainless steel!) bore brush with of ~ the same caliber as the mold, chuck it in an electric drill, then spin it at med. speed for ~30 sec. in each direction in the troublesome cavity. Clean the cavities, smoke the mold if you prefer, and begin casting. Alternatively, a worn bore brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool also works, but you'll need to degrease the mold cavities.
    Many thanks! I'll give this a try.

    I've tried the Kroil. I get wrinkles till it's burnt off and the cavities still stick. I've gone over the edges on most of them and it helped a bit. But I've got a couple you really have to wack them to get the boolit out.
    Semper Fi!


    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    6,498
    Ive also used a pencil eraser to lightly smooth and remove burrs

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,337
    TXG, You're most welcome...and let us know if it worked! Btw, I've had no success with Kroil either.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Ithaca Gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Between two mountains
    Posts
    1,762
    A few weeks ago I got a new Lyman 454190, cleaned the packing gunk off, Kroiled it and the boolits almost leap out of the thing! For me it works better than smoking or spraying that release in.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    6,498
    I not only work the edges with the pencil eraser but the other cavity surfaces as well. Sometimes a rough surface can really grip a bullet. Another area to look at with sticking cavities and square grooves is the surfaces of the lube grooves to make sure they don't have a under cut to them instead of the release angle they should have. This usually takes some magnification to see due to the low surface area.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    HB, CA, FOR NOW
    Posts
    3,796
    There is a sticky by a fellow from New Zealand, IIRC, on lapping using the WEET method. It works when all lesser efforts fail.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...hod-(In-parts)
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check