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Thread: Lyman 61 part????

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub ronniet's Avatar
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    Lyman 61 part????

    I loaned out my Lyman 61 pot years ago.
    Got it back last week and it was dissembled and there were some parts missing.
    Not ever having one apart I am looking for something I don't know what is.
    The part where the cord plugs in and unplugs are 2 round terminals and behind them are small nuts that affixed the terminals to a "plate " of some kind?
    There is a metal shield in front of the cord plug that screws to the front sheet metal thermostat box.
    I do not have or am missing the part that the 2 round terminals screw into and I suppose it then is screwed to the tin shield???
    I am certain this part is no longer available but there is possibly a cure for it with some other non conductive high heat material?
    And how does it screw to the pot?
    I attach a picture of one I stole form the net look closely at the 2 exposed terminals behind the shield and see the material the terminals are sticking out of? looks like tin foil but I am sure it is not being the 110 volts that are screwed to it.
    Please let me know anything you know about it .
    Thank you
    Ron
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Do a search on our site for "mica". Read, read and then read some more.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    km101's Avatar
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    Contact Lyman, even if they no longer have the part they should be able to tell you what it's called and what it's made of. They have been very helpful in the past.
    Yes I can spell, I just can't type!

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    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

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  4. #4
    Boolit Bub ronniet's Avatar
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    They don't have anyone there that knows, I don't think they are old enough????
    Looks like asbestos with a foil? cover.
    Mica may work if I could find a piece about 3/16" thick that I could drill and cut, thought about a soldering board but they are about 1/2" thick , they do resist heat but I do not know about electric conductive?
    I am sue this is not the first one that burned out, some genius caster I know have fixed theirs ???
    Ron

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    fecmech's Avatar
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    From what you're showing in the picture what you need is an old iron or coffee pot plug, item "c". If that's the case I have some laying aroundhere somwhere.
    "Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It would be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience."
    - C. S. Lewis

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub ronniet's Avatar
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    Hi FecMec, no I have that, the picture I was showing is not my pot but one I found a picture of on the internet to show the 2 prongs sticking out behind that tin shield.
    I need to find a piece of that material that the prongs are screwed to.
    It is some type of high heat , non- conductive material like asbestos?????
    I have the cord,
    I have been thinking of using a piece of Bakelite,
    I have a couple of old 220 house hold receptacles and the covers are made out of some type of hard breakable plastic or Bakelite looking stuff.
    I thought about trying to saw and drill that for my plate.
    Does anyone know what these covers are made from?
    I think the brand name is Eagle.
    Ron

  7. #7
    Boolit Master



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  8. #8
    Boolit Master


    fecmech's Avatar
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    Ron-I'm pretty sure the plate those pins are in was made out of mica. I don't think it really matters what it's made of as long as it's non-conductive and can take the heat from the pot. You don't really even need the pins and plug. Simply hardwire the connection and insulate it with Hitemp silicone or silicone electrical tape. I would suggest going to a place where they sell appliance parts and talk to the counter guy, he may be able to fix you up with some kind of high temp connection. Just a thought.

    PS. Those are great pots actually better IMO than even the current RCBS pot. They had a 1000 watt element that wold keep up with someone using 2 4 cav molds all day long. You could start out with your mold pre heating on the top shelf as the lead melted. When the pot was ready (about 20 mins) your mold or molds were ready. Then while you were casting you could place an ingot on the shelf to preheat and as you cast you could add a preheated ingot to replenish the pot without lowering the temperature. I had a friend who would cast thousands of bullets in 5-6 hours that way with 2 4 cavity molds.
    Last edited by fecmech; 03-21-2017 at 11:14 AM.
    "Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It would be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end for they do so with the approval of their own conscience."
    - C. S. Lewis

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub ronniet's Avatar
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    Thanks Fecmecf, I cut a piece of old Bakelite that was the cover off a 220 outlet and drilled and used that, I stuck a piece of fiberglass insulation in between that and the pot and screwed the front back one it,
    plugged the cord in and heated up the 20 year lead that was hardened in the pot, pot worked great, much better than my Lee pot witch is so flimsy.
    Thanks Ron

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check