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Thread: Identify arisaka

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    TClouis- that makes sense because the 38 I had swelled the Norma brass. I ran a .250 Savage reamer in and that problem went away and brass easier to come by. I did n't know a large chamber was the norm except on Lee Enfields so I've learned something. I wonder if the OP's Japtalian has an oversize chamber?
    Best, Thomas.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Rockydog's Avatar
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    Here's a shade tree mechanics tip for the oversize 6.5 Arisaka chambers. Split a strip of electricions or masking tape length wise and using new cases wrap enough of it around the case head, just above the extractor groove, that it's barely a slip fit in the chamber. This will center the back of the case in the oversize chamber. The front of the case will be fairly centered by the bullet in the leade. Upon firing these cases will expand to fill the chamber evenly rather than with a belly on one side. Peel the tape off after firing and simply neck size going forward. Sounds a bit goofy but I can tell you from experience that it works. RD
    A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.

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  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    TCLouis's Avatar
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    TbG
    What did you use for dies to load that chambering after the 250 reamer treatment.

    260will clean the chamber issues up and then it should perform just like a 260.

    6.5X257 does a very good job and like most others kills stuff as one would expect.

    Even with a dark barrel the Type 38s seem to shoot cast pretty well, low enough pressure to avoid swelling the brass to.
    Nothing is impossible for the person that does not have to do it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master map55b's Avatar
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    Hello Der Gebirgsijager and TX by God: Yes it still uses the e-clip. I had to make a small shim to help feeding and it sometimes stovepipes the last round. But if I can't kill my tin can with the first 5 then I don't deserve to be shooting. The issues with the last round is due to the follower not pushing at the right point of the cartridge as the 6.5 and 7.35s are longer than the 7.62x39. I might fit it one of these days. I plan to build another and adapt it to use a single stack AK mag. I also plan to move the bolt handle to the rear and fill the bridge to make scope mounting simpler and make a side mount safety for it. Why, just because.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCLouis View Post
    TbG
    What did you use for dies to load that chambering after the 250 reamer treatment.

    260will clean the chamber issues up and then it should perform just like a 260.

    6.5X257 does a very good job and like most others kills stuff as one would expect.

    Even with a dark barrel the Type 38s seem to shoot cast pretty well, low enough pressure to avoid swelling the brass to.
    I shortened an old 6.5 x55 die set so I could neck size the 26-250(as I called it). I wasn't into casting for rifles back then. When the itch hit again I had a local gunsmith fit a used ER Shaw 8x57 barrel to it and a neighbor still has it. But that's another story.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master





    bruce drake's Avatar
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    I own a two T38s and a Type I Carcano and from my experience, the T38s have looser chambers and bigger bores than the Type I. I have had to separate my brass between the three rifles as the brass fired in the T38 still in 6.5x50 (I converted the other T38 to 260Rem to clean up its huge chamber) and just neck-sized will not fit the chamber of the Type I. Both of my T38 rifles prefer cast boolits sized at .268" (I use a 7mm 150gr Lyman loverin-style mold sized down although I may experiment with LEE's new 130gr 270 caliber mold soon) while the Type I can provide me an accurate grouping with a standard 6.5mm Lyman 140gr Loverin mold sized at .266".

    Other than my Type I currently having an issue with ejecting the last cartridge from the magazine while trying to cycle it, (I may have to replace my magazine spring as it has the right floorplate and it doesn't look like the magazine lips have been altered) I really like this rifle.

    And after stripping the stock from the old paint that was applied at one time, I found a very light wood. I believe that the stock wood is birch as I don't feel its walnut like some folks claim.

    And it can be accurate. 50 yards with the 140gr Loverin.
    I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
    Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check