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Thread: Handle Wood?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy MaLar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    When mold handles start working loose I've had great results with high temp silicone sealer. I squirt a generous amount in the original handle hole, push it back on and wipe off the excess if necessary. Set it aside for 24 hours before using. Haven't had one come loose yet.

    David
    I just tried this recently and it works well.
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  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    In the days of sail black locust was the preferred wood for belaying pins.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Yep.Black locust is some rugged wood.Back in the day,one of the local cops was also a woodworker for a hobby.Made two night sticks about 18" long out of black locust.When he waded into a bar fight with those,it was like Gene Krupa on the drums with skulls for drums.His son still uses them to this day.
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  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    When mold handles start working loose I've had great results with high temp silicone sealer. I squirt a generous amount in the original handle hole, push it back on and wipe off the excess if necessary. Set it aside for 24 hours before using. Haven't had one come loose yet.

    David
    +1 on the silicone sealer. Used this stuff to attach a scope mount to an octagon barrel. 25 years later, this temporary mount is still there. Comes off with a razor blade. Great for mould handles. No screws or pins needed!

  5. #45
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    When mold handles start working loose I've had great results with high temp silicone sealer. I squirt a generous amount in the original handle hole, push it back on and wipe off the excess if necessary. Set it aside for 24 hours before using. Haven't had one come loose yet.

    David
    I've had the same problems with older Lyman handles working loose and spinning while I'm casting........enough to make a strong man drink. I finally got sick of it and mixed up some JB Weld, goobered some on to the metal tang and shoved it back into the handle. Dry in ten minutes and hasn't moved in three years. Of course, if I have to replace the handle some time in the future I'll have to carve it off...........

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check