All good solutions of course but I use barricade--New name for Sheath and maybe improved.
But one sticks out as the absolute worst and that is WD40. You could not pay me enough to spray a gun with it. Wax is also great.
All good solutions of course but I use barricade--New name for Sheath and maybe improved.
But one sticks out as the absolute worst and that is WD40. You could not pay me enough to spray a gun with it. Wax is also great.
I use Brownell's rust preventive #2 and never had an issue no matter how long the storage.
Picked up a Marlin model 99 22LR. It is mid 1960's and looked to be in almost perfect shape.
Except it would jam everytime. Quick inspection everthing looked very clean with a perfect bore. Honestly did not look it had ever been shot. Took it down and it had a
varnish in it that I am pretty sure was WD40. Had to scrape it all out. Oiled it and it
runs perfectly now. Will not even put WD40 in the same room now with my guns.
" My people skills are just fine. It's my tolerance for idiots that needs work."
I am still old school and use rig grease applied to the outside with a lambs wool pad. My pad is impregnated now so I just have to grab it and rub down the firearm. I add a little grease every so often to keep it going. I have the birch wood caseys Sheath here and its good but a little thin for my tastes for true protection also
G-96 for me. I have carried it all over the world in my locked gun case for years with just a bore snake and a wipe rag.
Ed
"Let us speak courteously, fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready."
Teddy Roosevelt, May 13, 1903
I do currently use Rem Oil on all the firearms that I store, but here's how I do it: I spray some on a cleaning patch and carefully coat all of the exterior metal and bore. The I affix two strips of Brownell's no-rust paper with rubber bands to the long gun, one on either side, and enclose it in one of their metallic storage bags. Fold that around the gun and then put the entire thing in a cheapie hardcase. So far it has proven good for 5 years.
I used to like the G-96 aerosol and went through a couple of cases of it, but once took out part of my revolver collection to show a vising retired LEO, and every single one was completely gummed up to where not only the cylinders wouldn't rotate, but they couldn't be opened. That provided an entertaining week's work to completely disassemble them, scrub them in kerosene with a toothbrush to remove the gum, lightly oil and reassemble. I've still got a can of it on my bench, but use it sparingly and not for storage.
WD-40 is a pretty good lubricant, but I've always wondered about it's long term storage protective abilities as it seems to evaporate completely after a couple of days.
It's hard to beat a light coating of grease for a preservative, but a mess to deal with when removing.
I do have some long guns that both the stocks and metal are coated with wax, then buffed with a soft cloth. That has often been the case with long guns I have displayed on the wall, as oil attracts and captures dust, but a gun protected with wax can just be wiped off with a dry cloth.
Actually Barricade is a very good product. It's wax based in an aerosol spray can, the aerosol evaporates and leaves the wax coating. It doesn't evaporate and does keep rust at bay. I use it in Louisiana , known for heat and humidity.
A good pure Carnauba automotive paste wax is also good. I use Mothers Pure Brazillion Carnauba Wax and apply two coats for long term storage ...this does work.
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
Thanks guys for your replies.
Keep them coming.
The product that seems to be recommended most is G96....dale
It all depends on the surface prior to storing. Ever wipe down a factory new gun and come up with a rust patch? I think the only think Rem Oil is good for is wiping down guns. -0- longevity in the lubication department, there are better alternatives. For longer term storage, I go with a liquid MDL. Donxt get an areosol, the stuff smellsmworse than Hoppes. I have never used Rig as I haven't had a need for it. Have considered trying the museum wax stuff though.
If you have no need for RIG why would you need museum wax?
Just wondering!
Lets make America GREAT again!
Go, Go, Go, Go, Go Donald Trump
Keep your head on your shoulders
Sit with your back to the wall
Be ready to draw on a moments notice
EEZOX!! Premium gun care is a synthetic oil that's extremely slippery AND leaves a protective shield against rust. It's all I use now for the last step before storage, and during cleaning for lubrication.
https://www.amazon.com/Eezox-Synthetic-Gun-Oil-Can/dp/B002XW24MK/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489677122&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=eezzox#Ask
They claim it forms a molecular bond with the metal. Apply the liquid, then wipe of the excess, leaves the metal dry. It comes as a spray as well.
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You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."
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Ok, I'm a Froglube guy. And love it.
Nobody has brought the new one on the block. Piglube.
From Their advertisement:
Pig Lube is a premium firearm lubricant that utilizes Nano Particle Technology. Imagine microscopic tungsten ball hearings eliminating surface friction on the naturally high friction/high wear contact points of your firearms. We are confident that you will never want to use a different gun lube again!
So there.
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I have used Remoil for years and like it. I have never seen what you are seeing on your guns however I have see this on my steel molds which I spray a heavy coat on prior to wrapping them up in a rag for storage, this could be caused from to much oil.
The brown stuff present from using Rem Oil for long term storage is just dried oil, and a little Hoppe's No. 9 takes it right off with no damage.
Pig Lube! How interesting! I'll be looking for it.
I just don't buy all this marketing about "nano" particales and super duper lubes manufactured by elves from a far, far away galaxy, and brought here by secret space ships.
Just me, old age maybe, never saw a rusted out cast iron block, which was lubed with quality motor oil. Just my 2 cents.
Case in point: Lucas lube $54 bucks a quart, M-Pro 7 $80 bucks a quart, Frog Lube $144 bucks a quart, Pig Lube $831 bucks a quart.
Lets make America GREAT again!
Go, Go, Go, Go, Go Donald Trump
Keep your head on your shoulders
Sit with your back to the wall
Be ready to draw on a moments notice
I don't have that many firearms that I have to buy my lube in quarts
Must be nice. LOL
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Yah, I get it.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |