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Thread: Cleaning Brass with fine steel wool?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    I only use steel wool on rough spots on brass I need. Rub them out and inspect. For years I only used steel wool, a file, 400 wet type sand paper. Didn't have all the other toys.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    winelover's Avatar
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    I use the "white" 3M pads, when I want to clean just a few cases and don't want to run the tumbler. They are the least abrasive of the colored pads. In descending order of abrasiveness: Brown, green, grey, white.

    Winelover

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    I use the "white" 3M pads, when I want to clean just a few cases and don't want to run the tumbler. They are the least abrasive of the colored pads. In descending order of abrasiveness:
    Winelover
    I can understand not running the tumbler. I think it all takes longer with all the other steps and toys.
    Back in the day I used to load one round a minute was slow, that was clean if needed, trim with file (caliber measure) , deburr using a file mostly. Loading was just fun, at 16 it stopped buying ammo unless I needed empty's.

    Adda few Black, Brown, green, Red, grey, Cream (off White), white. There are a few more like the one we call hair .
    Last edited by Teddy (punchie); 03-12-2017 at 08:44 AM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    barry s wales uk
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    Use shell holder from Lee trimmer after trimming use a price of cotton rag with white spirit/mineral spirit to wipe spinning case gets most of the crud off the case including case lube from sizing .

  5. #25
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
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    When I started reloading in 1967, I used a Lee Loader. I found a piece of 5/16 brass rod and cut a piece about 5 inches long. Then put it in a drill and tapered the end a little with a file. I could then slide on a .308 case and polish it up with 0000 steel wool. Was quite satisfied with the results.

    About 20 years later I built a tumbler using a barbeque grill motor and a square plastic jug, using corn cob and some kind of polishing compound. Then about 2003 acquired a vibrating tumbler from a flea market and used it a little. Have not done as much reloading as I would like over the years but am planning to do more now that I am retired. Will probably switch to stainless chips when I get a shop set up so I can fabricate a tumbler. Bright clean brass is easier to find in the grass after shooting and I hate losing it because it is hard to see if not polished bright.

  6. #26
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Amen, To SHINY BRASS!! That's what I say.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan Lansing Area
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    There was a fairly long thread about cleaning brass to a high shine vs. leaving it au natural so to speak. Many if buying wanted to see it as it is, others appreciated the super clean steel pin and lemi shine with the primers out. I guess I put myself in the middle, I want it cleaned & preserved (polish & citric acid) I won't waste a huge amount of time trying for super shiny in a vibrating polisher but I'm also not going to store a bunch of filthy brass. Even if I'll sell it later I'm going to want it cleaned up a decent amount just while it sits around until sold.

    If my brass comes out with a nice shine after an hour or so in the vibrating polisher I'm not unhappy that is for sure. If while loading them I see some soot or stain on one I'll clean it off. I think in the future I'm going to put some of those plastic scrubbing/polishing pads at the bench. Like that idea better than steel wool, no rust. Running the vibrating cleaner isn't costing me much and my finished product looks better for it. Besides shows of the pretty PC bullets to their best advantage if there is a shiny case
    Je suis Charlie
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this way of getting casting material somehow.
    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  8. #28
    Personally I like guns which allow you to take the case out and put it in your pocket. It may be maturity or something. But for many of us it is worth polishing to find it all after ejection.
    Last edited by Ballistics in Scotland; 03-14-2017 at 08:07 PM.

  9. #29
    I have been making bullet jewelry and have been collecting so much brass and for a while could not afford to keep up with the cost of just changing my media in my vibratory tumbler. I found out that harbor freight has a 25 lb box of walnut shells available so purchased it and it did well last night. I also found that to be cheap when your budget is low you can use new finish car polish in your tumbler.
    Some times I add the extra time to steel wool on the drill press with a wooden dalrod when I want it really shiny then switch to a hand polish.

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  10. #30
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    144
    (DIRT + GRASS + MUD ) + SHINY BRASS = FINDING IT.😆😆

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check