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Thread: My fabricated smelting pot, lot's of pics

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    My fabricated smelting pot, lot's of pics

    Thought I would share my pot. First off after MUCH research I need to give credit to CB's "BigBlack" for the basic valve concept idea. I did modify BB's design to what I think will work sweet.

    Pour valve: 1"X1"x3.5" key stock. cross drilled using a CSK 1/2-13 UNC allen head screw, and 1/4" NPT outlet





    Main body is 8" schedule 40 black pipe. milled a 1" square slot for the valve assembly:


    Upper valve rod bracket is removable so I can remove the CSK screw and rod assembly for cleaning:


    Inside pic :


    Outside pic :


    I went with a .5" thick pot bottom thinking it will add better heating stability :


    I positioned the valve handle to operate outside the pot so as to keep my hand as far away from the heat source as posible


    Planning on my first smelting session this weekend if it's not too cold.

  2. #2
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    rancher1913's Avatar
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    neat. keep posting photos, its great to "see" what your talking about.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Nice looking work! Anxious to hear how it works.

  4. #4
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    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    Both the concept and your work look good.
    What are you using for heat?
    Chill Wills

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    jeepyj's Avatar
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    Looking good so far. Keep us posted.
    Sometimes it takes a second box of boolits to clear my head.
    Feed back thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...?261449-jeepyj

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy PaulG67's Avatar
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    I like it. when I rebuild my smelting pot I will use some of your idea. thanks.
    Paul G


    I am Retired, I was tired yesterday and I am tired today!!!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Love it

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Nice looking job there. Is it going to sit on a stand or legs and stand welded to the base plate? Looks real nice. Maybe find a big spring to set around the handle with a short bushing in each end like a welders chisel. Would help keep it cool and not burn.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master copdills's Avatar
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    thats the stuff right there great job

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    Both the concept and your work look good.
    What are you using for heat?
    I purchased a basic propane burner :
    http://m.ebay.com/itm/Stansport-Sing....c100408.m2460

    I already have an auxiliary 40# propane tank so I should be good to go.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent
    Maybe find a big spring to set around the handle with a short bushing in each end like a welders chisel. Would help keep it cool and not burn.
    I also cut a piece of 1/2" schedule 40 x 4" long 316 stainless pipe to use as a protective sleeve against the hot valve rod. Got this tip from the my welder buddy who actually welded up my pot. Keep the 4" sleeve in a cup of water, use the loose sleeve as needed to actuate the valve handle. I fabricated the valve rod out of Monel so it will resist heat warpage.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for all the positive feedback, unfortunately for me my work is closing the doors after almost 80 years of pump manufacturing. The good is the fact I have access to a **** ton of free materials (like what can be used to fab a smelting pot) !

  13. #13
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    "Keep the 4" sleeve in a cup of water, use the loose sleeve as needed to actuate the valve handle."

    If I understand correctly - Please be careful with water over the top of your pot.
    Chill Wills

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

    Idz's Avatar
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    How do you folks keep the valve clean? The junk I smelt is full of jackets, cases, steel bits, sand, etc. Some crud floats and some seems to sink leaving clean lead in the middle. Do you presort the scrap?

  15. #15
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    It looks like his valve is elevated about an inch, which should do a good job of keeping the stubborn stuff that doesn't float away from it.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    "Keep the 4" sleeve in a cup of water, use the loose sleeve as needed to actuate the valve handle."

    If I understand correctly - Please be careful with water over the top of your pot.
    Good tip, water drops and molten lead is dangerous. Maybe just skip the "in the water" aspect. My intent is to not keep the sleeve constantly on the handle as it will get hot as well.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    So.... Once this is a proven concept, any chance you might be considering fabbing a few and selling them to those of us who lack your skill set?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308Jeff View Post
    So.... Once this is a proven concept, any chance you might be considering fabbing a few and selling them to those of us who lack your skill set?

    I value our friendship, if I were to throw a $$ number at you after material costs, a Dunkin Donuts gift card for my welder co-worker, some modest $ for my machining time and lastly shipping a 30# item , we would then be enemies.
    Last edited by Road_Clam; 03-03-2017 at 09:17 PM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Hahaha! Roger that.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I like the idea of the spring on the handle better than the water cooled piece. Like the handle of a chipping hammer. Sorry to hear your company is closing. With your skills you won't be unemployed very long!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check