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Thread: Trimming Brass for swaging

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Trimming Brass for swaging

    I converted a set of Lee 243 dies to make bullets for my 460 Rowland today. When I made my first bullets, the 40 cal cases turned out to be too long for my 250gr pills. Got to thinking and looking through a sack of misc reloading equipment I got in an auction a while back.

    I took a Lee 40sw case length gauge and trimmed it down so that the new case length was correct for my needs. After trimming about 100 cases with the lee cutter and lock stud, my fingers were raw from fighting with the knurling on both the lock stud and cutter. To make life easier for myself, I welded a rod to the cutter to make a T handle and welded a bit of metal (the tip of the 308 expander rod that I cut down to use as a HP punch) to the lock ring so that I could just use that to turn the lock ring. These two little things are making trimming cases for swaging so much easier and much more pain free.

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    I know this isn't groundbreaking and that this has probably been done before, sorry, I just wanted to save some fingers.

    Also, apologies for the ugly welds, I can stick metal together but I'll never be a welder.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20160904_21040sgsaag8.jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    If it works who cares what the welds look like. Sometimes you have to get creative.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Here is what I use. Make sure you trim before you anneal.

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    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    I considered a pipe cutter, but I'm only going down to .76. I wasn't sure if there would be enough support that far out. I may still see if I can pick up a cheap pipe cutter to try though.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I take about 3/8 of an inch or less with no problem. As I stated don't anneal the brass until after you have trimmed it.

    Quote Originally Posted by jiandawg View Post
    I considered a pipe cutter, but I'm only going down to .76. I wasn't sure if there would be enough support that far out. I may still see if I can pick up a cheap pipe cutter to try though.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Sasquatch-1,
    That set up looks good, I had never tried a tubing cutter on cases before, because my past experience with them was getting an accurate length, what I conceived to be a nice neat plumbing job was difficult to achieve.
    With that shell holder, a piece of slick plastic could go between the shell holder and the tubing cutter as a spacer to make uniform cuts.
    Then, finding material the right thickness for that spacer, I would check the thickness of plastic cutting boards down at wal mart, the official resupply point of bullet swagers every where!
    Assuming something close is available, use a hole saw to cut a nice disc then enlarge the pilot hole to slip over the case.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I went to this method, after using the Harbor Freight saw, because I could not get a straight angle on the cut, no matter what I tried, with the saw. I have used washers of various lengths to cut the case longer. But you are limited to the tubing cutter as far as shortness of the case goes.

    Quote Originally Posted by clodhopper View Post
    Sasquatch-1,
    That set up looks good, I had never tried a tubing cutter on cases before, because my past experience with them was getting an accurate length, what I conceived to be a nice neat plumbing job was difficult to achieve.
    With that shell holder, a piece of slick plastic could go between the shell holder and the tubing cutter as a spacer to make uniform cuts.
    Then, finding material the right thickness for that spacer, I would check the thickness of plastic cutting boards down at wal mart, the official resupply point of bullet swagers every where!
    Assuming something close is available, use a hole saw to cut a nice disc then enlarge the pilot hole to slip over the case.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  8. #8
    In Remembrance

    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    I get very straight cuts with my HF saw.
    1) We cut for making 300 Blackout conversions. The brass gets trimmed again anyways after reforming the necks. So, squareness is not an issue.
    2) We also cut 223 rem brass to make jackets for 9mm bullets. Those are coming out very nice. The burr stays on the throw away parts, so no need to trim the burr. The bullets come out looking exactly like Hornady XTPs.
    3) I've also cut any number of reduced length cases for swaging into jackets. They always come out very nice.

    The HF saw, with a proper fixture, and a proper saw blade (the original saw blades are ****), cuts very nicely for all my needs.


    NRA Life Member
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  9. #9
    Boolit Bub



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    DukeInFlorida, can you describe your fixture for cutting 223 for 9mm, or maybe a pic? Also, what saw blade are you using? Thanks

  10. #10
    In Remembrance

    DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    Here are a couple of videos I made on the subject of the fixtures:



    Here's the thread where I discussed where my pop through fixtures came from:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...8-Trimming-Jig

    I'm using a high quality jewelers saw blade that I got through ChuckBuster. We got 20,000 precision cuts from it before it got too dull to be useful. Just changed to the backup blade. I'll get ChuckBuster to chime in. He is interested (or at least was) in sponsoring a group buy for these blades.


    NRA Life Member
    NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor

    Author of a book on reloading
    ILSA MEMBER http://www.internationallawnsteelsho...ssociation.com
    NRA RANGE SAFETY OFFICER


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check