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Thread: am i missing something

  1. #21
    Boolit Master PWS's Avatar
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    So, nobody recommends seating the cores before heating? Reason I ask is that this thread inspired me to muck around with bonding this weekend and Sunday afternoon finds me failed in two big ways - didn't get much bonding except a little at the very base and lots of porosity when I tore open the finished slugs. This was using a SOWW core that's loose, regular zinc chloride paste flux on a Q-tip, and melting them standing in the LEE pot I also use to anneal the jackets. The jackets are drawn .308 cases that have been wet tumbled.

    I'm going to try a little tin in my cores and be much more anal about cleaning the insides of the jackets but I'm still concerned about porosity.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by clodhopper View Post
    I'm using paste flux for soldering copper pipe applied with a Qtip.
    Standing all the jackets made from fired brass up right in a stainless steel pan and putting them on an electric burner.
    Okay todays experiments show this to only bond 50% or so of parts.
    Tin sounds like a good solution, at least I have some handy.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  3. #23
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    Not sure why you want to reinvent the wheel. Just buy corbin's flux, use a drop per core and be done with it. It never fails in my experience. A quart will last you several lifetimes.
    Zbench
    99.99% pure lead wire for swaging here

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Key word "buy"
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    Corbin's is all I have ever used, has not failed yet.
    " CANCER SUCKS" I swage .224, 6mm, 7mm, .308, 9mm, .40, .429. Also 9 to 30 jackets, and 9 to 9 jackets.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    seating the cores before the heat could help since you wouldn't have a lot of air there to release the flux.
    I have been melting mine like I described then core seating.

    I could try the flux in the jacket, then core seating, then do the melt.

    I have been doing the melt because it seems to help fill out the jacket better in the point form die and because I can get about 2 more grains of core weight in there.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  7. #27
    Vendor Sponsor uncle dino's Avatar
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    R5R..I,would advise against seating core before bonding..they do pop..I've had cores hit the lid of pot even when I've had plenty of clearance to let gases, moisture or whatever escape. When core lets go it splatters lead all over the outside of jackets of surrounding bullets. Zbench called it...I also would highly recommend Corbin's core bond..it really works great..lasts forever. Any little bit of impurities left in jacket will float right to the top.. 2 oz. is 8 bucks and will probably do thousands of bullets?. D
    Last edited by uncle dino; 03-06-2017 at 11:06 PM.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    thanks Dino.
    i'll probably just break down and get some.
    I know how important a flux is to cleaning before bonding when soldering, and my cores get pretty oxidized after cleaning the swage lube off them.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    I checked Corbin's web site today, Core bond seem to be out of stock.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

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  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Dino, that's not the same page I found it on yesterday.
    Corbin's web site is such a warren, all kinds of jems hiding in it.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  12. #32
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    A word of advise, when you do use that flux and heat the assembled core and bullet, some of the flux will fizz out and spray on the surroundings. It will rust steel in a heartbeat, so make sure you have anything you care about covered up. I use aluminum foil.
    Zbench
    99.99% pure lead wire for swaging here

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Faret's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zbench View Post
    A word of advise, when you do use that flux and heat the assembled core and bullet, some of the flux will fizz out and spray on the surroundings. It will rust steel in a heartbeat, so make sure you have anything you care about covered up. I use aluminum foil.
    Would this do any damage to the heating elements on a electric kiln or furnace?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master PWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uncle dino View Post
    Ordered some today too, Thanks Dino!

  15. #35
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    I don't think so. One thing needed for rust is moisture, which is in precious supply at 1000 F!
    Zbench
    99.99% pure lead wire for swaging here

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    my little heater element was 10$ at the walmart.
    I could probably absorb that financial set-back if it gets ruined.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  17. #37
    Vendor Sponsor uncle dino's Avatar
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    I'm not sure about long term affects of core bond on enclosed heating elements.. I've only ran maybe 5 large batches in my kiln. I see scale on the elements.. But that may be normal..I find myself using a giant cast iron frying pan with a lid over a propane burner..Is a lot quicker..300 bullets in pan. Burner on high ..7-8 minutes..done. the few vapors from core bond seem to help keep oxidation on outside of jacket to a minimum..if you resist the temptation to take the lid off and peek..D

  18. #38
    Boolit Master PWS's Avatar
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    Holy Moley! Core Bond showed up yesterday and had a chance to try some. What a difference! The cores wetted to the jackets and everything performed the way Corbin's says. Proof is in the shooting but that'll be at least a few days.

    Core freshly melted and wetted to jacket:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Cores solidified and shrinkage hole showing that they're holding to the jacket:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #39
    Vendor Sponsor uncle dino's Avatar
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    I wet tumble the cores in baking soda and car wash after I bond...once you remove them from the wash, water will be trapped in the hole in center of core. I place all the cores back in pot @ 200 degrees for at least 1/2 hour to get water out.. Look real close when you core seat, if you can see the water on top of the core if it isn't dry enough..water will create voids in core otherwise...don't core seat without washing...will rust up your die.. D

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    baking soda is a PH neutralizer and super cheap don't skip using it.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check