Not sure why you want to reinvent the wheel. Just buy corbin's flux, use a drop per core and be done with it. It never fails in my experience. A quart will last you several lifetimes.
Zbench
Key word "buy"
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
Corbin's is all I have ever used, has not failed yet.
" CANCER SUCKS" I swage .224, 6mm, 7mm, .308, 9mm, .40, .429. Also 9 to 30 jackets, and 9 to 9 jackets.
seating the cores before the heat could help since you wouldn't have a lot of air there to release the flux.
I have been melting mine like I described then core seating.
I could try the flux in the jacket, then core seating, then do the melt.
I have been doing the melt because it seems to help fill out the jacket better in the point form die and because I can get about 2 more grains of core weight in there.
R5R..I,would advise against seating core before bonding..they do pop..I've had cores hit the lid of pot even when I've had plenty of clearance to let gases, moisture or whatever escape. When core lets go it splatters lead all over the outside of jackets of surrounding bullets. Zbench called it...I also would highly recommend Corbin's core bond..it really works great..lasts forever. Any little bit of impurities left in jacket will float right to the top.. 2 oz. is 8 bucks and will probably do thousands of bullets?. D
Last edited by uncle dino; 03-06-2017 at 11:06 PM.
thanks Dino.
i'll probably just break down and get some.
I know how important a flux is to cleaning before bonding when soldering, and my cores get pretty oxidized after cleaning the swage lube off them.
I checked Corbin's web site today, Core bond seem to be out of stock.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan...Code=Chemicals..
Try here. D
Thanks Dino, that's not the same page I found it on yesterday.
Corbin's web site is such a warren, all kinds of jems hiding in it.
To lazy to chase arrows.
Clodhopper
A word of advise, when you do use that flux and heat the assembled core and bullet, some of the flux will fizz out and spray on the surroundings. It will rust steel in a heartbeat, so make sure you have anything you care about covered up. I use aluminum foil.
Zbench
I don't think so. One thing needed for rust is moisture, which is in precious supply at 1000 F!
Zbench
my little heater element was 10$ at the walmart.
I could probably absorb that financial set-back if it gets ruined.
I'm not sure about long term affects of core bond on enclosed heating elements.. I've only ran maybe 5 large batches in my kiln. I see scale on the elements.. But that may be normal..I find myself using a giant cast iron frying pan with a lid over a propane burner..Is a lot quicker..300 bullets in pan. Burner on high ..7-8 minutes..done. the few vapors from core bond seem to help keep oxidation on outside of jacket to a minimum..if you resist the temptation to take the lid off and peek..D
Holy Moley! Core Bond showed up yesterday and had a chance to try some. What a difference! The cores wetted to the jackets and everything performed the way Corbin's says. Proof is in the shooting but that'll be at least a few days.
Core freshly melted and wetted to jacket:
Cores solidified and shrinkage hole showing that they're holding to the jacket:
I wet tumble the cores in baking soda and car wash after I bond...once you remove them from the wash, water will be trapped in the hole in center of core. I place all the cores back in pot @ 200 degrees for at least 1/2 hour to get water out.. Look real close when you core seat, if you can see the water on top of the core if it isn't dry enough..water will create voids in core otherwise...don't core seat without washing...will rust up your die.. D
baking soda is a PH neutralizer and super cheap don't skip using it.
Yep! Baking soda is great and if you use the A&H fridge/freezer packs it is more or less free since you were going to throw it away anyhow. I use them in the soda blaster as well.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |