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Thread: Ouch--I 've bruised my trigger finger. Ruger Sp101 trigger job ideas.

  1. #21
    Vendor Sponsor chuckbuster's Avatar
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    check out
    trigger shims.com

    Lance has the Wolff spring kits also. Great guy to work with
    Kevin
    Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? Why don't you dig how beautiful it is out here? Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change? (Sgt. Oddball, KELLY'S HEROES)
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  2. #22
    Boolit Man
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    http://sp101trigger.com/
    This helped me, and worked well.
    As far as I've been able to find out, the IBOK is no longer available for purchase. I can't remember the blog name but someone has the full IBOK for the GP100 posted. It says with Iowegans approval. I accidently wiped my old phone but may be able to find that again.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    While I have it apart, I'll give it a light polish to see if I can knock off a little of the grit while the new springs are going in. One thing about Rugers, they come apart easy.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Reminds me of a combat shooters' pistolsmith in Houston decades ago.
    The secret to making a pistol smooth as silk was a liquid polishing compound and working the action until it was time to clean all the grit out. Could have been watered down J-B for all I know but boy howdy was it ever amazing.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master huntrick64's Avatar
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    I know that even though some people feel that if you can't get this apart in under 5 minutes you are an idiot, there are some of these guns (mine was one) that you had to beat apart with a rubber mallet because they were manufactured too fat in the fit. If yours is one of these you can dress the steel where they fit together so that they come apart and go back together like they are supposed to. Just don't hit the mating surfaces that are visible because they have good lines already. Polishing the carrier holes for the springs, slightly round and polish the hammer strut edges (where the hammer spring rides), and polishing the mating surfaces on your trigger parts, and if you can do so without changing any angles, polish the sear surfaces. I used 400, then 800, then 1200 wet or dry sandpaper then a buffing wheel with jeweler's rouge on my dremel to finish the polishing. There is not much good that can come from a Dremel when you are working on a gun, but polishing is one exception. Enjoy working on it, you will be rewarded.
    Last edited by huntrick64; 03-04-2017 at 08:50 AM. Reason: correction

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I purchased a small set of polishing stones from Brownell's. All the same finish, just different shapes. Kept all the angles the same and the surfaces polished quickly. Any burrs or wear spots were removed with same stones. Wolf springs. It was absolutely amazing the difference afterwards. This was in a .357 mag DAO with bobbed hammer. Light, smooth and reliable.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    I typically use a hard arkansas stone, followed by the dremel tool (mines a 35 year old Craftsman)with a bit of jewelers rouge. I have had a hard time finding sand paper finer than 600 grit and anyway,back in the day, a gentleman stoned his actions.
    At one time I was making beer money doing duty action jobs on S&Ws and Ruger Security Sixes, but when a client who was a lawyer explained how much liability I was putting myself in, I stopped.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I changed the springs on mine to lighten the trigger but I finally got rid of the snub nose 357Mag. I loved the gun and carry weight but full house loads were brutal. On the plus side, if you missed the bad guy the fireball would set him on fire
    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check